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12-18-2007, 09:08 PM   #16
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wow confused that looks good .that did it for me Im getting that lens .I didn't really want to carry around all those prime lens, heck with that, what is and where is vignetting .I have the 18-55 lens that came with tha camera it gets down to 3.5 .For indoor pictures of people in the living room or the kitchen what would you use for a lens .Ill have the new 540 flash on my camera .With the prime lens 50mm that gets down to 1.4 the one (the wengler) talked about above, do you still need a flash for in the house pictures.I have never had a lens that I couldn't zoom in and out so i don't know how you get what you want in the frame ,do you have to move your body back and forth.what if you wanted to get just the face and then get the hold body I don't see how you could do that with a prime lens. Or would you just stick with the 18-55 for indoors and use a flash and use the 18-250 for walkaround out side ,or can I use the 18-250 inside with a flash .sorry Im asking so many stupid ?'s and thanks for taking the time to take the pic with th 18-250 . Is there any way you would take a pic with the 18-250 at the same power prime lens you have of the same thing at the same distance so I can see what the differance is in prime and 18-250 . I can't find where anyone has done this .I went to the web sights you put in above but there was no side by side pics .Thanks again for your help, Steve

12-18-2007, 10:15 PM   #17
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PentaxK10duser.

I don't know if this will help your decision making but I did a quick and dirty test as you suggested. The lenses I used were the DA40 limited and the new Da 18-250. The first is from the Da40 and the second from the Da 18-250 both with the built in flash and about 18 inches away. I was quite surprised by the quality of image from the 18-250. It is not a scientific test by any means but the results are interesting. I will have to do some tests like this outdoors when the weather improves.
Both at F8 ISO100 1/60.



12-19-2007, 12:00 AM   #18
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Hi Steve (pentaxk10duser)

With fixed 'prime' lenses, your deduction is indeed correct insofar that in order to compose a photograph in the viewfinder:

QuoteQuote:
you have to move your body back and forth
i.e: your feet have to do the walking, instead of your fingers ! In a funny kind of way, zooms are the equivalent of a lazy man's 'legs'......lol !

Vignetting can be usually be detected by a slight but subtle 'darkening' in each corner of the photograph, as you can observe for yourself if you carefully study the macro shot of the coins. Nowadays vignetting can easily be removed with the latest digital editing software, so it's not something to worry about unduly. The most common culprit responsible for inducing vignetting is the addition of one or more filters to the front of a lens's screw thread. Attaching a filter increases the likelihood of encountering vignetting in the corners of an image the wider the coverage of the lens becomes, which is why you will discover that many extreme wide-angle or 'fisheye' lenses are totally devoid of a conventional filter thread.
Hope this explanation helps ?

Best regards
Richard

Last edited by Confused; 12-19-2007 at 02:11 AM.
12-19-2007, 07:56 PM   #19
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Thanks Brian K. I thing the secound one looks better I wish You didn't tell me which was which I would have got it wrong .great pics .Im not even going to think about prime lens anymore that for sure did it for me Im going for the 18-250 .I bet when people see what the 18-250 can do they will get one to .I can't wait to get mine .is your 18-250 tamon or pentax .thanks for taking the time to take the pictures .You sold me on the 18-250 for sure ,Thanks Steve


Last edited by pentaxk10duser; 12-19-2007 at 08:24 PM.
12-19-2007, 09:48 PM   #20
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QuoteQuote:
Hi Steve (pentaxk10duser)


i.e: your feet have to do the walking, instead of your fingers ! In a funny kind of way, zooms are the equivalent of a lazy man's 'legs'......lol !

Yes, except in the cases where the few feet you can move back or forward with your legs makes an insignificant difference in the image size seen in your viewfinder, or you are limited in your movement.
12-19-2007, 10:02 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by SpecialK Quote
Yes, except in the cases where the few feet you can move back or forward with your legs makes an insignificant difference in the image size seen in your viewfinder, or you are limited in your movement.
Such as on the top of a mountain. I have to dig out a shot and scan it that I took from the top of one of our local mountains on a hiking club outing and digitize it. It will exemplify the place where a zoom is the only way to do it.
12-20-2007, 02:21 PM   #22
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Mine is the Pentax Da 18-250 but from what I have seen in other posts you could not go wrong with the Tamron either. I took a few outdoors today and the only negative to the lens showed up. There is some vignetting at certain focal lengths. It is easily fixed in PP and will not limit my use of this lens.

I now have a kit that will cover everthing I want to do.

DA 18-250 for general walkaround
DA 50-135 for lower light and portraits
FA 50 1.4 for low light portrait and indoor shooting
Sigma 70-300 for bird-animal shots. (I would like to get a Bigma, maybe next year)

I will still keep the DA 16-45 and the Da 50-200 to use when weight is a problem.

The advantage of the 18-250 has been mentioned by other users and that is not missing a shot while you are changing lenses. I don't know about you, but most of my shooting is spur of the moment and unplanned. I take a lot of "tourist" type shots. If I have time to plan a shoot then I would use the other lenses more often.

Good luck with whichever you choose and have a Happy Holiday Season.
12-27-2007, 04:17 PM   #23
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For those that are curious...I got the Pentax 18-250 recently. Here's a 100% crop...250mm, f/11, 1/50 sec, ISO 200, taken with a K100D mounted to a tripod and IS off. It's one of my sharpest results with this lens. They aren't all this sharp but it shows what can be achieved.

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PENTAX K100D  Photo 
12-27-2007, 04:32 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by pentaxk10duser Quote
I have never had a lens that I couldn't zoom in and out so i don't know how you get what you want in the frame ,do you have to move your body back and forth.
There is a lot more to it than just getting what you want in the frame. When using a zoom (I use the 16-45) I do just about as much walking back and forth as with a prime, because sometimes I want the perspective (field of view) of 16mm, sometimes I want 45mm, sometimes I want something in between. Just something to think about...
12-27-2007, 04:55 PM   #25
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I am prime bias (as some here are zoom bias ;-)

Personally I buy primes due to the following
- In general less vignetting (darkening in the corners of the frame).
- Sharper especially the sides and corners of the frame (sample above only really shows center) for landscape this can become very noticable.
- Brighter, generally brighter lenses possible.
- Smaller.
- Primes are cheaper at comparable apertures
- In general much better OOF rendering (some people call bokeh)
- For macro prime is essential for high quality 1:1 imo

I often walk around all day with my 35/2, its sharp from wide open all across the frame, brighter than any available Pentax zoom, no vignetting and smaller than any available zoom in the Pentax mount..

I have owned heaps of zooms the only one I kept was the 10-20, I wish I had some long zooms to compare against my F*300/4.5 as nothing I had tried comes close to the optical quality of that lens at f4.5...

And yes as said above to get the right perspective you still have to use your feet even with a zoom..

It is all personal preference, there is a big difference in my opinion, BUT it depends if those differences are in areas that affect your style of photography. For many those differences are in critical areas and so very important, for others they are not in crtical apsects of the lens for them and so the convieniance of the zoom far outweighs what they see as unimportant differences. Over time you will settle in to whatever suits you best, I bought and sold a lot of lenses before I finally settled on my current kit.. LOL

Last edited by joele; 12-27-2007 at 05:05 PM.
12-29-2007, 10:20 PM   #26
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I love primes, and I only have one. Sure, it overlaps, but I haven't even used the kit lens since I got my M50/1.7. The quality and flexibility are so much better. Yes, sometimes, it can be a nuisance to have to move to get the right perspective. You have to do that more than when you use a zoom, but that's fine. The way I plan my kit, I want a DA21, DA40, and a DA70 for most things. I want to buy the DA14 and DFA100 for special usage. I might get the FA135. For now, I have to live off of the kit lens, my M50/1.7, and hopefully a DA50-200. People make the case that it's a nuisance to carry so many lenses, but you won't have to carry them so long as you know the uses for each focal length and the focal lengths you like to shoot with. A kit solely based on the three pancake lenses works because you've got the ultra-wide DA21, the normal DA40, and the short-telephoto DA70. That's three different types of coverage, and for me, it makes sense.
10-15-2008, 03:23 PM   #27
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Referring to the macro shot of the coins: With all due respect I don't think this shot is showing the potential of the Tamron 18-250. It doesn't look as sharp to me as it should.

EDIT: Just found this coin shot with the 18-250 from a review: Tamron 18-250mm F/3.5-6.3 AF Di-II LD Aspherical (IF) Macro Review.

Last edited by Class A; 10-16-2008 at 06:27 PM. Reason: Added image reference
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