Originally posted by Medium FormatPro Pentax DA 50-135mm f2.8 That aperature for that range of zoom is difficult to beat; and it's quite impressive (for a zoom) optically.
Pentax 60-250mm f4.0 Optically one of the best zoom lens with a Pentax label, but at a cost...
Zeiss 50mm f2.0
Zeiss 85mm f1.4 I've never seen any lens on a pentax camera to this quality. It's evn worth it to borrow this lens or so see if it's available to rent
I sometimes mention that my favorite people-shooting zoom is an old M42 Sears-Tokina 55-135/3.5 that cost me US$8 shipped, and that its modern counterpart is the DA*50-135/2.8... at 100x the price. Ouch. I'm finding my new-to-me PK-A Vivitar-Komine Series 1 v3 70-210/2.8-4 (US$35 shipped) is quite good for formal and informal H&S and headshots -- don't know how it compares to the DA*60-250/4. And good glass between 50-90mm are great tools, from my K50/1.2 and SuperTak 55/1.8 to the Jupiter-9 85/2 and Vivitar-Komine 90/2.8 macro.
But I still find that 1) IMHO the best combo for H&S and near headshots for facial modeling is around 75-80-85-90mm f/3.5, and 2) I get edge-to-edge razor-sharp images from cheap Industar-58 and Vivitar-LU 75/3.5 enlarger lenses (ELs). The I-58 is a monstrous thing in a black trumpet (subjects sometimes look nervous) set for a fixed-focus of 1.5m. I put the little Viv on a focusing helicoid for more flexibility. I also use ELs and projector lenses of 60mm and 90mm to good effect. All these are cheap, ELs are sharp, and projector lenses have character.
Originally posted by Drom If this manual lens works well for me, I will probably want to collect more of them. Not sure yet how good I will be at using manual lenses.
I grew up in photography before AF existed. I started shooting around 1957. My first AF cam was around 1997. Manual focus
ain't no big thang. AF *is* real handy in dynamic situations, but much portraiture (except stealthy street-shots) just doesn't require it. Especially with ultra-thin-DOF portraiture, an AF system may focus on a point that isn't where *you* want the focus to be. When I use a 75/1.2 or 82/1.4 optic, I need better control than AF provides. (I get those by putting a good screw-on Sony 1.5x TC atop my K50/1.2 or Tomioka 55/1.4. For AF, it rides my FA50/1.4 for 75/1.4.)
Yes, suberb images can be shot with costly glass (AF or MF). Can also be shot with good cheap glass and a bit of practice. But hay, it's only money.