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userage · 12-17-2011, 01:32 PM

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(Bit of a noob)

I've got a Rikenon XR 50mm 1.7, I got a UV Filter on it (which is for protection since someone told me they are more or less useless). I've heard Lens Hoods are useful but I don't know which one to get. Do I need one for my 50mm? The filter thread is 52mm. I'm worried I buy the wrong lens hood (i.e. too long - I see it in the frame, too short - it has no effect).

So can someone link me to a good lens hood? or will any 52mm do?

Thanks

Docrwm · 12-17-2011, 01:43 PM

I prefer the 3 stage rubber hoods for a couple of reasons. They can be set at 3 different lengths thus avoiding worries about length. They also store more easily and in less space. And i think they provide more impact protection than rigid hoods. A generic one in 52mm on ebay should run $3 or so too

**baro-nite** · 12-17-2011, 02:22 PM

The usual problem is not too much hood, but too little. Keep in mind that with lenses from the film era, the hoods were designed for a larger "sensor" than we have with Pentax DSLRs. So those hoods are shorter than optimum when using the lens on a Pentax. The problem isn't seeing the hood in the frame -- that would only happen with a massively oversized (or too narrow) hood. It's more subtle -- vignetting at large apertures.

Lens hoods aren't useful, they're essential. I agree with Docrwm that the rubber hoods are a good choice.

Steinback · 12-17-2011, 02:48 PM

Nikon has made some very nice quick detachable metal hoods in 52mm. I have an HS-6 for my 52mm thread primes but there are a number of other similar models in slightly different lengths and profiles.

Philoslothical · 12-17-2011, 03:00 PM

Another vote for the cheap, collapsible rubber hoods for shorter lenses like your 50mm. They're very convenient, easy to store, and effective. For longer tele lenses I do prefer hard plastic or metal cylindrical hoods though. I'm talking about anything over maybe 200mm.

userage · 12-17-2011, 03:31 PM

New 52mm Flower Petal Lens Hood for Nikon D3100 D5000 D3000 D5100 D40 D50 d60 UK | eBay

Is that one alright? I just think it looks nicer

52mm 3-Stage Rubber Lens Hood for Nikon Canon Pentax OM | eBay The collapsible one your talking about right? Does the shape make a difference?

RioRico · 12-17-2011, 03:38 PM

Except with a few lenses (especially macros) with deep front insets that act as hoods, I put a hood on everything. I rarely buy new hoods, mostly just scavenge them from lot-buys of misc stuff. So I have an assortment of rubber, metal, and plastic hoods. (And when shooting close with a reversed lens, use a section of macro tube as a hood.) I just check for vignetting, and go.

Philoslothical · 12-17-2011, 04:01 PM

Originally posted by RioRico

(And when shooting close with a reversed lens, use a section of macro tube as a hood.)

Love it! Great idea.

**rbefly** · 12-17-2011, 04:51 PM

Hello Userage, Welcome to the Forum!
Yes, the shape does make a difference. Ideally, the hood prevents stray light from entering the side of the viewing area, which causes all sorts of problems. Most often it results in a "haze" or foggy, cloudy look, and resultant loss of contrast. You will know it when you see it.
So, the hood should cut off as much "side" light as possible, without appearing in the frame. If you can see the dark area caused by the hood around the outside of the frame, it's referred to as "Vignetting".
Hood too short or too wide, haze and loss of contrast.
Hood too long or too narrow (imagine a telephoto hood on a wide-angle lens!) will cause vignetting.
I am a metal hood guy, the rubber ones don't seem to offer the kind of protection I want (bear in mind I also use threaded metal lens caps!) and plastic ones are pretty much useless in any sort of impact, which is part of their job. In fact, since they break so easily, the broken hood may cause damage to the lens itself! Talk about a double whammy; It fails at protecting the lens AND damages it while doing so.
So, metal (or rubber, the thick kind) in the right size (length and width, or angle to match the lens), on at all times except when the lens is safely stowed in the bag, with a lens cap on the front and rear.
FYI, I use a "Standard" metal lens hood on my 50mm lenses, it's an after-market jobby that is a constant-diameter cylinder (no taper or widening) that extends 20mm or 3/4" from the filter ring or frontmost part of the lens. No vignetting and good haze/flare control.
Good Luck!
Ron

**baro-nite** · 12-17-2011, 05:40 PM

Originally posted by userage

New 52mm Flower Petal Lens Hood for Nikon D3100 D5000 D3000 D5100 D40 D50 d60 UK | eBay

Is that one alright? I just think it looks nicer

52mm 3-Stage Rubber Lens Hood for Nikon Canon Pentax OM | eBay The collapsible one your talking about right? Does the shape make a difference?

The "flower petal" you link to is a screw-in hood, so should be fine.

That kind of shape is optimal, if the size is correct, because the hood is deeper where it needs to be (to match the rectangular sensor). Just make sure to adjust it so the big "petals" are top and bottom.

Docrwm · 12-17-2011, 09:01 PM

Originally posted by userage

52mm 3-Stage Rubber Lens Hood for Nikon Canon Pentax OM | eBay The collapsible one your talking about right? Does the shape make a difference?

That's one of them. Make sure that you buy one that has double threads so you can add a filter if needed while still having the hood in place.

**baro-nite** · 12-18-2011, 05:27 AM

Originally posted by Docrwm

That's one of them. Make sure that you buy one that has double threads so you can add a filter if needed while still having the hood in place.

Good point -- not just for adding filters, but also the lens cap. With collapsible rubber hoods it's often handy to just leave the hood on the lens for extended periods.

Docrwm · 12-18-2011, 08:17 AM

Originally posted by baro-nite

Good point -- not just for adding filters, but also the lens cap. With collapsible rubber hoods it's often handy to just leave the hood on the lens for extended periods.

True. They add a added dimension of cushioning in the bag. My 35/2.4 would rattle around in the slot without the rubber hood in place, but with it the lens fits nicely and is more protected from being jarred by movement in the bag.

stevebrot · 12-18-2011, 03:00 PM

I would look at Heavystar on eBay. He sells a decent quality metal screw-on hood for a very decent price. I use his 52mm "normal" on my XR Rikenon 50/2 and they work great for both APS-C (my K10D) and for film (just deep enough, but not too deep to cause vignette on the digicam).

New! Metal 52mm Standard Screw-in Lens Hood | eBay

FWIW, I use a collapsible 49mm hood with my Pentax M and A 50s and while I like it, I must confess that it does not provide the degree of physical protection offered by a rigid hood so I tend to recommend the rigid variety.

Steve

(No connection to heavystar except as a satisfied customer...)

userage · 12-18-2011, 03:06 PM

Seems like a nice choice but I don't want to order from USA (I'm in UK), so I think the plastic one will do for now. Thanks though.

12-17-2011, 01:32 PM	#1
userage Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Posts: 198	Lens hood for a 50mm Staff note: This post may contain affiliate links, which means Pentax Forums may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. If you would like to support the forum directly, you may also make a donation here. (Bit of a noob) I've got a Rikenon XR 50mm 1.7, I got a UV Filter on it (which is for protection since someone told me they are more or less useless). I've heard Lens Hoods are useful but I don't know which one to get. Do I need one for my 50mm? The filter thread is 52mm. I'm worried I buy the wrong lens hood (i.e. too long - I see it in the frame, too short - it has no effect). So can someone link me to a good lens hood? or will any 52mm do? Thanks

12-17-2011, 04:51 PM	#9
rbefly Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Denver, Colorado Photos: Albums Posts: 2,030	Wear Your Hood! Hello Userage, Welcome to the Forum! Yes, the shape does make a difference. Ideally, the hood prevents stray light from entering the side of the viewing area, which causes all sorts of problems. Most often it results in a "haze" or foggy, cloudy look, and resultant loss of contrast. You will know it when you see it. So, the hood should cut off as much "side" light as possible, without appearing in the frame. If you can see the dark area caused by the hood around the outside of the frame, it's referred to as "Vignetting". Hood too short or too wide, haze and loss of contrast. Hood too long or too narrow (imagine a telephoto hood on a wide-angle lens!) will cause vignetting. I am a metal hood guy, the rubber ones don't seem to offer the kind of protection I want (bear in mind I also use threaded metal lens caps!) and plastic ones are pretty much useless in any sort of impact, which is part of their job. In fact, since they break so easily, the broken hood may cause damage to the lens itself! Talk about a double whammy; It fails at protecting the lens AND damages it while doing so. So, metal (or rubber, the thick kind) in the right size (length and width, or angle to match the lens), on at all times except when the lens is safely stowed in the bag, with a lens cap on the front and rear. FYI, I use a "Standard" metal lens hood on my 50mm lenses, it's an after-market jobby that is a constant-diameter cylinder (no taper or widening) that extends 20mm or 3/4" from the filter ring or frontmost part of the lens. No vignetting and good haze/flare control. Good Luck! Ron

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12-17-2011, 01:43 PM	#2
Docrwm Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Somewhere in the Southern US Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 12,285	I prefer the 3 stage rubber hoods for a couple of reasons. They can be set at 3 different lengths thus avoiding worries about length. They also store more easily and in less space. And i think they provide more impact protection than rigid hoods. A generic one in 52mm on ebay should run $3 or so too

12-17-2011, 02:22 PM	#3
baro-nite Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: North Carolina, USA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,295	The usual problem is not too much hood, but too little. Keep in mind that with lenses from the film era, the hoods were designed for a larger "sensor" than we have with Pentax DSLRs. So those hoods are shorter than optimum when using the lens on a Pentax. The problem isn't seeing the hood in the frame -- that would only happen with a massively oversized (or too narrow) hood. It's more subtle -- vignetting at large apertures. Lens hoods aren't useful, they're essential. I agree with Docrwm that the rubber hoods are a good choice.

12-17-2011, 02:48 PM	#4
Steinback Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: GTA, ON, Canada Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,673	Nikon has made some very nice quick detachable metal hoods in 52mm. I have an HS-6 for my 52mm thread primes but there are a number of other similar models in slightly different lengths and profiles.

12-17-2011, 03:00 PM	#5
Philoslothical Veteran Member Join Date: May 2011 Posts: 1,889	Another vote for the cheap, collapsible rubber hoods for shorter lenses like your 50mm. They're very convenient, easy to store, and effective. For longer tele lenses I do prefer hard plastic or metal cylindrical hoods though. I'm talking about anything over maybe 200mm.

12-17-2011, 03:31 PM	#6
userage Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Posts: 198 Original Poster	New 52mm Flower Petal Lens Hood for Nikon D3100 D5000 D3000 D5100 D40 D50 d60 UK \| eBay Is that one alright? I just think it looks nicer 52mm 3-Stage Rubber Lens Hood for Nikon Canon Pentax OM \| eBay The collapsible one your talking about right? Does the shape make a difference?

12-17-2011, 03:38 PM	#7
RioRico Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Limbo, California Posts: 11,263	Except with a few lenses (especially macros) with deep front insets that act as hoods, I put a hood on everything. I rarely buy new hoods, mostly just scavenge them from lot-buys of misc stuff. So I have an assortment of rubber, metal, and plastic hoods. (And when shooting close with a reversed lens, use a section of macro tube as a hood.) I just check for vignetting, and go.

12-17-2011, 04:01 PM	#8
Philoslothical Veteran Member Join Date: May 2011 Posts: 1,889	Originally posted by RioRico (And when shooting close with a reversed lens, use a section of macro tube as a hood.) Love it! Great idea.

12-17-2011, 05:40 PM	#10
baro-nite Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: North Carolina, USA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,295	Originally posted by userage New 52mm Flower Petal Lens Hood for Nikon D3100 D5000 D3000 D5100 D40 D50 d60 UK \| eBay Is that one alright? I just think it looks nicer 52mm 3-Stage Rubber Lens Hood for Nikon Canon Pentax OM \| eBay The collapsible one your talking about right? Does the shape make a difference? The "flower petal" you link to is a screw-in hood, so should be fine. That kind of shape is optimal, if the size is correct, because the hood is deeper where it needs to be (to match the rectangular sensor). Just make sure to adjust it so the big "petals" are top and bottom.

12-17-2011, 09:01 PM	#11
Docrwm Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Somewhere in the Southern US Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 12,285	Originally posted by userage 52mm 3-Stage Rubber Lens Hood for Nikon Canon Pentax OM \| eBay The collapsible one your talking about right? Does the shape make a difference? That's one of them. Make sure that you buy one that has double threads so you can add a filter if needed while still having the hood in place.

12-18-2011, 05:27 AM	#12
baro-nite Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: North Carolina, USA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,295	Originally posted by Docrwm That's one of them. Make sure that you buy one that has double threads so you can add a filter if needed while still having the hood in place. Good point -- not just for adding filters, but also the lens cap. With collapsible rubber hoods it's often handy to just leave the hood on the lens for extended periods.

12-18-2011, 08:17 AM	#13
Docrwm Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Somewhere in the Southern US Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 12,285	Originally posted by baro-nite Good point -- not just for adding filters, but also the lens cap. With collapsible rubber hoods it's often handy to just leave the hood on the lens for extended periods. True. They add a added dimension of cushioning in the bag. My 35/2.4 would rattle around in the slot without the rubber hood in place, but with it the lens fits nicely and is more protected from being jarred by movement in the bag.

12-18-2011, 03:00 PM	#14
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 42,007	I would look at Heavystar on eBay. He sells a decent quality metal screw-on hood for a very decent price. I use his 52mm "normal" on my XR Rikenon 50/2 and they work great for both APS-C (my K10D) and for film (just deep enough, but not too deep to cause vignette on the digicam). New! Metal 52mm Standard Screw-in Lens Hood \| eBay FWIW, I use a collapsible 49mm hood with my Pentax M and A 50s and while I like it, I must confess that it does not provide the degree of physical protection offered by a rigid hood so I tend to recommend the rigid variety. Steve (No connection to heavystar except as a satisfied customer...)

12-18-2011, 03:06 PM	#15
userage Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Posts: 198 Original Poster	Seems like a nice choice but I don't want to order from USA (I'm in UK), so I think the plastic one will do for now. Thanks though.

Lens hood for a 50mm

Win a Pentax Limited Lens: Raffle Now Live!