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03-24-2012, 08:08 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by PPPPPP42 Quote
That would leave the mirror constantly flopping like a fish, putting the light sensor anywhere else in the body would put it out of the main path of the light (bouncing off the mirror in this case) and it would meter like crap, so its either mirrorless or through the focusing screen, rather half assed compromise either way but what can you do.
Unless, of course, you only did the mirror up metering with the green button push, sort of like the digital preview feature of my my K10D. That would totally solve the metering issues with legacy glass.

QuoteQuote:
I specifically got my katzeye screen without optibrite because apparently its not just you that sees a brighter image with optibrite and it makes the underexposure even worse, though its negligible according to katzeye people.
Not really wanting to contradict you, but I have owned both OptiBrite and non-OptiBrite versions of the KatzEye and was able to test both side-by-side on my K10D. They both meter essentially the same and neither is an improvement over the stock screen in regards to meter accuracy on that camera. I would post the results of the exposure series, but lost the spreadsheets in a harddrive crash a couple of years ago.


Steve

(...loves his KatzEye...was one of the early adopters on this site...)

03-25-2012, 01:48 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by PPPPPP42 Quote
That would leave the mirror constantly flopping like a fish, putting the light sensor anywhere else in the body would put it out of the main path of the light (bouncing off the mirror in this case) and it would meter like crap, so its either mirrorless or through the focusing screen, rather half assed compromise either way but what can you do.
Of course you would only do this 'on-demand', say with the green button. Alternatively, why not have a user settable exposure correction profile (or two) to store the screen/lens/aperture response. I'm sure that such a fudge factor look-up is there already for the stock screen.
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