[isb.deep]

I recently got a new DA 50 1.8 lens from Amazon based on the very good review it received here at PF. However, I noticed that it was giving a random yellow tinge to the pictures. The following is a bunch of continuous shots using that lens under artificial light. Did I recieve a bad copy or is the camera unable to cope up with the white balance issue. I tried the same scene with the DA 35 2.4 and was not able to replicate the issue. Any help would be appreciated.

[paulh]

If you're using AWB (auto white balance), try setting the white balance manually (tungsten, fluorescent, etc). Not sure about the K30, but most of the older Pentax models had trouble with AWB under artificial lighting.

[elliott]

Does this happen with the white balance on manual?

[SpecialK]

The cycle of the lights is messing up the WB.

[Aegon]

I agree with SpecialK, this looks like fluorescent banding.

See here for more info:
Photography under florescent | Useful Photo Tips

[isb.deep]

Thanks everyone for the quick responses. I was using Florescent WB setting. I tried shooting again using the AWB setting and that seemed to solve the issue. Even with the Florescent setting, the issue was seen only when I placed the subject (the toy, not much of a "subject" but it does the job) directly under the light. So I think it will suffice to say the WB setting was having a hard time. I guess the lens is okay after all. Thanks again everyone for your inputs

[isb.deep]

I agree with SpecialK, this looks like fluorescent banding.

See here for more info:
Photography under florescent | Useful Photo Tips

This was very informative, you learn something new everyday. Thanks Aegon!

[lytrytyr]

See here for more info:
Photography under florescent | Useful Photo Tips

I checked this reference.

After reading it carefully,
I wonder if photographing under "indecent light"
will lead to NSFW images.

[Digitalis]

This problem is caused by the 60Hz cycle that Fluorescent lights operate on - try shooting at 1/30th or 1/15th to completely eliminate this effect.

[paulh]

I'm not the OP, but this is some valuable info - thanks guys.

[nikcan]

Exact problem I faced day before yesterday, my bad, I ignored it as my aim was something else. I was trying to capture water dripping off kitchen faucet. I was using my newly arrived DA 50. Handheld K5 was set to Manual focus, ISO 400, 1/600s, F4.0 or so. I used to get yellow bands in either of the images. Gosh !!! if I follow this thread correctly, then I can't capture sharp water droplets any time as shutter is damn slow to capture it.

So many things to think, while capturing that moment.

Any thoughts guys?

Looks like it is as simple as shoot in day light, but I don't think that is possible in my kitchen then

I have seen many professional images of dripping water in low light. How to achieve that? Pentaxians, please help !!!

-Sachin
Learning is necessity !!!

[donfenix]

You can probably use an artificial light source that doesn't flicker, something other than fluorescent light. Try ordinary incandescent light, LED light, or halogen light and it will probably work.

Exact problem I faced day before yesterday, my bad, I ignored it as my aim was something else. I was trying to capture water dripping off kitchen faucet. I was using my newly arrived DA 50. Handheld K5 was set to Manual focus, ISO 400, 1/600s, F4.0 or so. I used to get yellow bands in either of the images. Gosh !!! if I follow this thread correctly, then I can't capture sharp water droplets any time as shutter is damn slow to capture it.

So many things to think, while capturing that moment.

Any thoughts guys?

Looks like it is as simple as shoot in day light, but I don't think that is possible in my kitchen then

I have seen many professional images of dripping water in low light. How to achieve that? Pentaxians, please help !!!

-Sachin
Learning is necessity !!!

[ChromaNoise]

You might also try a fluorescent light with a high frequency ballast (also called flicker free). That way your fluorescent tube will flicker at a frequency of 50+ kHz. Your eyes will too, appreciate this. And you get a better efficacy as a bonus

It doesn't end there though. You can also purchase multiphosphor tubes that have a much higher CRI (color rendering index), which as its name suggests, will give you much better color rendition. The CRI is indicated by the first digit on the tube. The next two are the first two numbers of the color temperature in Kelvins. For example: 830 - CRI of 80% with a color temp of 3000K. For best results, a 9xx tube would be preferred. Of course that will cost more and may not be readily available. For photography, you should definitely avoid low-end halophosphate tubes (Fxx) because those tend to have a terrible CRI.

[simico]

I have seen many professional images of dripping water in low light. How to achieve that?

Use flash.

[isb.deep]

albeit an external one with a HSS mode. Otherwise the shutter speed would be stuck at 1/180. I tried the water droplet photos sometime back with a Fuji HS10 that I used to have and they came out okay. The advantage of having an electronic shutter, I guess. You can sync flash, even wirelessly, to upto 1/2500 second.