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10-05-2012, 03:11 PM   #16
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Fastest and widest - zooms are your friend in tight spaces and when you are not alone to focus exclusively on your photography.

Sigma 18-50 f/2.8 + DA15 + DA70

10-05-2012, 03:15 PM   #17
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When Discovery first arrived, I did a couple hours with the DA 10-17 fisheye (and I have the purple fringes to prove it! )
Discovery tail fisheye view | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Discovery tail fisheye view B/W | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Since then, I've been digging into ultra-wide-angle with the Siggy 10-20. It's all fun.
10-05-2012, 03:21 PM   #18
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Take the 15. You can get close. Just for reference, this is the 12-24 @ 12mm, 1/30, f4.5, ISO 800.



Same info, except 1/45.


21mm.

Last edited by SpecialK; 10-05-2012 at 03:27 PM.
10-05-2012, 05:20 PM   #19
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I'll just add on to the number saying definitely bring the 15. That plus the 35, 40 or 43. That second choice is the hard part!

I would probably pick the 35 since it's nice & sharp but you can also blur the background enough for portraits.

You certainly couldn't be faulted for bringing the 40 for absolute tinyness.

10-05-2012, 11:19 PM   #20
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I recently went to a couple of air museums (Evergreen and Tillamook). One was bright and I could use f/4 - f/5.6 most of the time, the other was dark and an f/2.8 lens would have only been usable with a tripod. So if you can find out what apertures you can use, that should help you figure out the lenses to take.

As for focal length, keep in mind that you can stitch images. I did this with the Tamron 17-50@17mm to capture the Spruce Goose in 4 shots with the K-7:

10-06-2012, 07:53 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by Laurentiu Cristofor Quote
I recently went to a couple of air museums (Evergreen and Tillamook). One was bright and I could use f/4 - f/5.6 most of the time, the other was dark and an f/2.8 lens would have only been usable with a tripod. So if you can find out what apertures you can use, that should help you figure out the lenses to take.

As for focal length, keep in mind that you can stitch images. I did this with the Tamron 17-50@17mm to capture the Spruce Goose in 4 shots with the K-7:
Nice photo of the Spruce Goose! I had wondered what became of that oddity. Glad to see it preserved and I really like that they parked a C-47/DC-3 Gooney Bird under its wing - talk about adding perspective to the shot
10-06-2012, 09:53 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Docrwm Quote
Nice photo of the Spruce Goose!
Thanks!

Stitching is a great choice. I kick myself for often forgetting about it. But it is interesting, because if you have one sharp prime, you can crop if you need tighter compositions and you can stitch if you need wider ones, so it becomes easier to rely on a single prime lens.
10-06-2012, 10:51 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by Laurentiu Cristofor Quote
Thanks!

Stitching is a great choice. I kick myself for often forgetting about it. But it is interesting, because if you have one sharp prime, you can crop if you need tighter compositions and you can stitch if you need wider ones, so it becomes easier to rely on a single prime lens.
I've never stitched photos together. I have LR3.6 and PS5 but haven't ever even played with that feature, or is there better software for that sort of thing?

10-06-2012, 04:58 PM   #24
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I concur in wide and fast plus practice your slow shutter technique. You might be amazed at what you can do with some practice.
10-06-2012, 05:32 PM   #25
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Looks like you could practically get away with the DA15 only! Good points re stitching above - allow plenty of overlap and the DA15 will work fine for stitch shots. I use microsoft ICE, which is very effective I find. Your shots will assume an almost fisheye quality because your viewpoint is rotated.
10-06-2012, 05:40 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by ihasa Quote
Looks like you could practically get away with the DA15 only! Good points re stitching above - allow plenty of overlap and the DA15 will work fine for stitch shots. I use microsoft ICE, which is very effective I find. Your shots will assume an almost fisheye quality because your viewpoint is rotated.
Thanks for the ICE reference, it has the benefit of being a free download I discovered.
10-06-2012, 08:03 PM   #27
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I use Photoshop CS5 for panos. In Bridge, I slelect all the images first, open in ACR, set them all to the same white balance. Then I use the lens correction tab if my lens has a profile, then click Done. Then back in Bridge, Tools -> Photoshop -> Photomerge. You can choose different projections there. I just let the program pick everything the first time. With good shots to begin with and an uncomplicated subject, the auto settings work fine for me, so I rarely go back and try something else. I don't know whether the lens correction step is necessary, it might happen automatically.

All my panos so far are handheld or use some improvised support, so the stitcher has some work to do. I do turn off all Auto settings before taking the shots. I use viewfinder markings like the brackets to keep track of overlaps.

Here's one that is sort of a failure, taken in the McDonalds restaurant in the Udvar-Hazy museum. I had to do some editing because people were moving from shot to shot, and Photomerge hated that. It still has problems in the center. Stationary subjects are obviously better. Most of the time it works seamlessly. I've never used anything else for comparison except Photomerge in Elements 6, which was much worse.

10-07-2012, 12:36 AM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by Docrwm Quote
I've never stitched photos together. I have LR3.6 and PS5 but haven't ever even played with that feature, or is there better software for that sort of thing?
I don't know about LR or PS, but I used Microsoft ICE like ihasa and it worked fine for me. You may know ICE as photosynth on phones - ICE is the desktop version.

Speaking of tools that you can download for free - picturenaut is a pretty nice HDR tool, if you're interested in that.

QuoteOriginally posted by ihasa Quote
Looks like you could practically get away with the DA15 only!
+1

I also found that DA 15 shots stitch very well because of the lack of distortion.
10-07-2012, 07:12 AM   #29
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I've used the free open-source 'Hugin' stitching application for years, before I could invest in wider lenses. The early versions of Hugin were rather labor-intensive, but the latest is more plug-n-chug. As said above, to get a good stitch, it helps to have your camera on a support to limit parallax errors (tho' it's surprising how much the software can handle), and use aperture priority to avoid 'banding' in skies.

This is a stitch of Discovery from a half-dozen shots usiing a 18-50 zoom:
Discovery left side panorama | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
10-07-2012, 10:03 AM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by THoog Quote
This is a stitch of Discovery from a half-dozen shots usiing a 18-50 zoom:
Discovery left side panorama | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Well done!
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