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02-12-2013, 08:49 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by mrNewt Quote
Are those AF or MF!?

Rule of thumb ... if you change your focus screen you have to change the shims to correct for focus.
If you do not do that, what you see in the viewfinder is not what you get in the picture. And on the K-5 it will tend to front-focus like you have.

I have a K-5 and I have a focus screen as well - I had to install new shim for the focus screen.
Thanks so much for your help, the Bower is the only one with MF.
Shims it is, it seam

02-12-2013, 08:51 AM   #17
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Thanks everyone for answering my post, this is truly a wonderful forum.
You all have a nice day and take care
02-12-2013, 08:53 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by gryphongryph Quote
Thanks so much for your help, the Bower is the only one with MF.
Shims it is, it seam
Yep, looks like it .

You won't have the problem on the AF lenses because AF will work without an issue.
With MF you have to use the viewfinder to make sure it is in focus ... unless you start using live-view only - but that will defeat the puorpose of the new focus screen .
02-12-2013, 08:56 AM   #19
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One question though - when manual focusing, are you specifically using the image in the focusing screen/viewfinder to confirm? Or do you also use the little green hexagon?

02-12-2013, 09:03 AM   #20
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Another question, can the green hexagon be used for MF lenses? I thought those lenses have no electrical contact.
02-12-2013, 09:13 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by JinDesu Quote
One question though - when manual focusing, are you specifically using the image in the focusing screen/viewfinder to confirm? Or do you also use the little green hexagon?
QuoteOriginally posted by vodanh1982 Quote
Another question, can the green hexagon be used for MF lenses? I thought those lenses have no electrical contact.
Yes, you can, but it will never guarantee is 100% in focus.
There is a "sort-of a play" when the software will tell you that it thinks the object is in focus.

The whole point of switching your focus screen to a better one (like split screen for example) is to help you to accurately focus your subject, eliminating the "is sort-of in focus" green box warning ... but in that case you have to adjust for the thickness of the new screen - and that can be done only by using a different shim.
Which one!? It all depends on the thickness of the shim - so you have to experiment.
02-12-2013, 09:40 AM   #22
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I have the same lens and experienced the same behavior on my K-7. When I focus near the minimum focusing distance, it severely front focus. I have a split-screen focusing screen with micro prisms and the image looks in perfect focus.

Live view nails focus precisely. One thing I noticed is that with the split screen there is a little play that makes no difference on the viewfinder but big difference in the image (as seen by live view); same with focus confirmation.

When I use a viewfinder magnifies (2.5X) I can improve the accuracy significantly. That points that there a small range that both the focusing screen and the Phase detection focus confirm will indicate that the image is in focus. Unless you are in the middle of that range, focus will be off.

At this time only live view (of stopping down the lens) can provide consistent critical focus with that lens, which is how I use it mostly in a studio environment on a tripod.
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