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03-27-2013, 05:32 AM   #16
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Hoods are our friends ... in the DSRL world that is ... J

03-27-2013, 05:53 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mattco26 Quote
I don't understand why so many people use the crappy rubber ones.
I can't speak for others but I always store my lenses in padded pouches, The rubber hoods fold and allow you to store lens and hood in the pouch. The hoods also stay nice and round that way and are always attached. They also aren't big and heavy like the metal ones. The only time I use metal hoods are the reversible storage bayonet ones.

NaCl(absolutely nothing wrong with rubber hoods)H2O
03-27-2013, 06:17 AM   #18
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I have metal hoods on all my 50mm lenses (and not only) - a good addition.
03-27-2013, 06:36 AM   #19
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I bought a rubber lens hood for my Super Tak 35/2, which has a 67mm thread, simply because they are easier to find...

All my smaller thread lenses have metal hoods.

03-27-2013, 09:01 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by bdery Quote
I've tested f1,7s and f1,4 together, and while a hood is never a bad thin, the f1,7 does not "need" one. The improvement in contrast was very hard to spot with the hood on, contrary to an f1,4 where it does make a world of difference. It's a matter of preference, for me a hood is cumbersome and the gain was not visible, so I don't use one.
This is why I originally asked the question. I've read this from a few owners of this particular lens. I get that hoods in general are helpful if not necessary.

I'll likely pick up something simple and inexpensive for this particular lens and test it out both ways. I generally use them, It's nice on a walkaround lens if you don't have to.
03-27-2013, 10:17 AM   #21
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I've seen a lot of F50/1.7s for sale that have broken filter rings. A hood adds protection from that damage.

I have a lot of hoods for 49mm filter threads. When I'm home, I use inexpensive metal hoods about an inch deep that take a 58mm cap in front. For travel, I swap those for rubber hoods and 49mm caps. The rubber hoods double as storage protection.
03-27-2013, 10:37 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Just1MoreDave Quote
I've seen a lot of F50/1.7s for sale that have broken filter rings. A hood adds protection from that damage.
Yeah, I've noticed and thought that same thing.

QuoteOriginally posted by Just1MoreDave Quote
I have a lot of hoods for 49mm filter threads. When I'm home, I use inexpensive metal hoods about an inch deep that take a 58mm cap in front. For travel, I swap those for rubber hoods and 49mm caps. The rubber hoods double as storage protection.
Good advice, I'll likely do just that. I have some rubber hoods, I need to check the thread size and then I'll pick a few things up.
03-27-2013, 11:20 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by troika Quote
I generally use them, It's nice on a walkaround lens if you don't have to.
True. On something like the 60-250, the lens is big already so it's not that much of a problem to get it even bigger, but on a small lens any added bulk is annoying.

QuoteOriginally posted by Just1MoreDave Quote
I've seen a lot of F50/1.7s for sale that have broken filter rings. A hood adds protection from that damage.
Good point.

03-27-2013, 12:09 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by Just1MoreDave Quote
I've seen a lot of F50/1.7s for sale that have broken filter rings. A hood adds protection from that damage.
Someone who was selling one of these either here or on eBay had taken a filter, broken the glass out, cleaned it up and screwed just threads on to protect or repair the plastic ring that usually breaks. I thought that was a pretty cool idea. I have a couple of old film era filters that I won't ever use again. If they're the right size that could be good preventative maintenance.

I'm excited about getting this lens. It was categorized "near mint" and looked it from the pictures. My only AF lens at the moment is my zoom. I'm concerned about screwdrive noise for what I frequently photograph and this lens will be an inexpensive way to test that out. The photo galleries for it look very good to me. I'm good with manual primes, but AF has it's advantages and place.

Thanks to everyone for their advice on this.
03-27-2013, 02:20 PM   #25
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Pentax smc F 50/1, 7 + Aroma 1A filter 49mm + remove the rubber hood with threaded (ring) 49mm + step up ring 49-52mm (equivalent to the front cover of the kit 18-55) = nice to see + functional in every respect (and put on a Pentax smc F 28/2, 8) :



]


Last edited by mbukal; 03-27-2013 at 02:30 PM.
03-27-2013, 02:31 PM   #26
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Hi

I do recommend a hood. I had a rubber hood on my 35mm for many years, but now I swear to the metal hoods. The hoods protect the lens from physical abuse, and also reduses the risk of flare.

The best looking once are of course the black original hoods. Look at keh.com for good prices, and you can also get brad new ones from Pentax dealers. At least I got one, but it is plastic....
03-27-2013, 02:43 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by GabrielFFontes Quote
Turns out that the 49-28mm step down ring just works as an aperture ring, reducing the effective f-stop of the lens, meaning you could just stop down this lens.
This would happen because this F 50mm 1.7, for example, is pretty sharp at f2, but soft at f1.7...it would reduce the f-stop slightly (to close to f2, probably) and make the lens "sharper", but you lose light.
It would still be a bit better, since you would have a rounded aperture at f2, instead of having it looking weird like it would if you stopped down.
Read that thread again.

While this applies to a lens with F/1.4, it does not apply, or it does but to a much lesser extend, to a lens with F/1.7.

50/28 = 1.78, very close to 1.7, probably well within tolerance

In fact, I'm using a 49-28mm stepdown ring for my FA50 F/1.7, and see no effect on exposure setting with or without this "hood."

Of you can stepdown to 30.5 (49-37mm + 37-30.5mm stepdown rings). 50/30/5 = 1.64.
03-27-2013, 05:45 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by mbukal Quote
Pentax smc F 50/1, 7 + Aroma 1A filter 49mm + remove the rubber hood with threaded (ring) 49mm + step up ring 49-52mm (equivalent to the front cover of the kit 18-55) = nice to see + functional in every respect (and put on a Pentax smc F 28/2, 8) :



]
I still think this is a much better and cheaper solution. Five bucks, free shipping, in the US. This is what I use on my F 50mm and it works great for film or digital. I also use it on my Super Tak 1.4 and my F 35-70. About half the size of the Pentax 135mm one posted about earlier.

49mm Tele Metal Screw in Lens Hood for Canon Nikon Sony Olympus Camera | eBay
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Last edited by Mattco26; 03-27-2013 at 05:52 PM.
03-27-2013, 05:48 PM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by SOldBear Quote
Read that thread again.

While this applies to a lens with F/1.4, it does not apply, or it does but to a much lesser extend, to a lens with F/1.7.

50/28 = 1.78, very close to 1.7, probably well within tolerance

In fact, I'm using a 49-28mm stepdown ring for my FA50 F/1.7, and see no effect on exposure setting with or without this "hood."

Of you can stepdown to 30.5 (49-37mm + 37-30.5mm stepdown rings). 50/30/5 = 1.64.
SOldBear, since the step-down ring does not change the aperture of the lens, it won't have an impressive effect on a F 50mm 1.7, therefore, i believe using a normal style hood is a better option.
03-27-2013, 05:54 PM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by NaClH2O Quote
I can't speak for others but I always store my lenses in padded pouches, The rubber hoods fold and allow you to store lens and hood in the pouch. The hoods also stay nice and round that way and are always attached. They also aren't big and heavy like the metal ones. The only time I use metal hoods are the reversible storage bayonet ones.

NaCl(absolutely nothing wrong with rubber hoods)H2O
I have some rubber hoods laying around as well, these small metal ones are just as light as the rubber ones and they last much longer. Just my opinion. They are also more effective since the rubber ones are usually wider.
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