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03-06-2008, 06:08 AM   #16
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Some great examples here guys and gals. I love night photography. As soon as spring gets here I plan on being out at night more often.

03-06-2008, 06:41 AM   #17
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I have shot at night or low light for years. Starting out by using kodak Tri-X 400 ISO pushed 3 stops to 3200 ISO.

For those shots, I have been dependant upon very fast lenses, and in my collection of primes, I have a 24 mm f2.5, 50mm F1.4, 105 F2.8 and 135 F2.5

For walk around shooting I like the small size of the primes compared to a fast zoom (note my 135F2.5 is smaller and lighter than my 28-75 F2,8 zoom). This also requires high ISO settings but are a lot of fun because no one really thinks you are taking photos.

I do 2 other types of low light shots,
-stage performances, where either fast primes, or zooms are required to be able to rely on stage lighting only and get the shutter speed necessary for freezing the action, and
- shots of city lights, where depending on the effect, you can either hand hold, or use a tripod. By effect, this means for example streaking headlights and tail lights. Peter Zack posted a great shot in the post your photo's forum about a week ago. This requires long exposure , stopped down, and a tripod, your present lens can do this. Other noght shots as some have posted here, are of city lights, which can be done hand held, and SR helps here, to avoid blurring. Note, when doing city lights from high structures and buildings, a tripod does not help due to the sway of the building in windy conditions, you might not notice it byt the image does.
03-06-2008, 06:59 AM   #18
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A good fast lens like the 50 1.7/1.4s can do both styles of low light shooting well. 50mm used lenses can be found for low prices. Especially, if you don't need af or auto exposure.
Can high iso/ open aperture pictures be good quality? Sure. They won't match the "technical" quality of shots done at iso 100 - 200. Who cares? This is art. Everything doesn't have to look the same. For #2 method use the lowest iso possible to get the picture. Run the images thru Noise Ninja or Neat Image programs to reduce noise. Learn to hold the camera still. Practice will improve this. If there is a park bench, pole, trash can, etc to brace the camera against use it to help stabilize the camera. Shooting raw will also lower noise in the image for any ISO setting. Need higher iso? Set camera to raw, iso 1600, underexpose, then lighten up in post processing. This will give more noise but sometimes it is the only way to get a picture. Shoot city night shoots after a rain. This keeps the image from being full of dark foregrounds. Ever notice how many Hollywood films use this trick? People actually get paid to wet down the street before a scene. Hope this helps.
thanks
barondla
03-07-2008, 04:56 AM   #19
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One benefit of a faster lens is that it makes it easier to focus. Imagine I want to take a shot at 55mm. With my trusty old SMC Takumar 55/1.8 I get a MUCH brighter view through the viewfinder than I would using the kit lens, which is f5.6 at 55mm. If I take the actual photo at something like f8, f11, etc. then the brightness aspect is a non-issue as far as the that goes. So just keep in mind that the maximum aperture value does play a role in low-light photography, even if you don't shoot at that aperture.

03-07-2008, 10:33 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mike Cash Quote
One benefit of a faster lens is that it makes it easier to focus. Imagine I want to take a shot at 55mm. With my trusty old SMC Takumar 55/1.8 I get a MUCH brighter view through the viewfinder than I would using the kit lens, which is f5.6 at 55mm. If I take the actual photo at something like f8, f11, etc. then the brightness aspect is a non-issue as far as the that goes. So just keep in mind that the maximum aperture value does play a role in low-light photography, even if you don't shoot at that aperture.
Extremely good point.

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03-08-2008, 06:54 AM   #21
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50mm 1.4 thru 2.8 should serve you well. i like the gorillapod (SLR version) and ball head combo as it can stand alone or be wrapped/hung from most anything and is light enuff to carry anywhere. just be sure to get a version suitable for your camera and lens weight.

Joby - Gorillapod SLR-ZOOM

Last edited by ivoire; 03-09-2008 at 06:38 AM.
03-08-2008, 07:30 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by ivoire Quote
50mm 1.4 thru 2.8 should serve you well. i like the gorillapod (SLR version) and ball head combo as it can stand alone or be wrapped/hung from most anything and is light enuff to carry anywhere. just be sure to get a version suitable for your camera and lens weight.

Joby - Gorillapod SLR-ZOOM
Ivoire


How do these work?

I can see putting my P&S on one, just like in their ad, but a K10 with a moderately heavy fast prime?

Are they really that stable?
03-08-2008, 08:16 AM   #23
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Edvard all this info lets see what you have done with it. Any shots to share?

03-08-2008, 09:23 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
Ivoire


How do these work?

I can see putting my P&S on one, just like in their ad, but a K10 with a moderately heavy fast prime?

Are they really that stable?
Lowell, the gorillapod has flexible ball-like connectors and a rubber grip circling them. they are very flexible and grippy. if i attach the giotto ball head to the camera and add the f*300mm lens i can get it to stand upright on a table or other flat surface. after about 5 minutes it will start to sag a bit. with lighter lenses its not a problem. wrapping it around an object, tree, branch, pole etc works better with a heavy lens. they make several for different purposes, buy accordingly.
03-08-2008, 10:39 AM   #25
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30 second exposure.. the K10D is great for night shots. Good fun.

03-08-2008, 11:34 AM   #26
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I was out last night in another snow storm

shooting at 1600 asa i received a lot of noise in the pictures, the lens is not fast nor sharp but the results are ok. I used a tripod and tried to bracket the shots to try out some HDR. I am not happy with those results to be able to post.
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03-08-2008, 11:48 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
Ivoire


How do these work?

I can see putting my P&S on one, just like in their ad, but a K10 with a moderately heavy fast prime?

Are they really that stable?
I went to REI yesterday and played with the GorillaPod SLR and the UltraPod II, I'm still looking at full-size tripods, but wanted something small and sturdy for now.

I found the GorillaPod to be pretty 'unhappy' under the weight of my K10D and 18-250, with a lighter lens it might have been better, but I just found more give/wobble than I was comfortable with. I ended up getting the UltraPod II and so far like it quite a bit. While it is nowhere near as flexible as the GorillaPod, it is a lot more stable, and it also has a ball head.

I did sneak in some sunset type shots last night, but given I was mounting off the top of my car, configuring settings didn't go real smoothly. I'll post them later today.


Edit: I just realized Joby has an 'SLR ZOOM' model, I only played with the normal 'SLR' model....I guess I'll need to try and track down that 'ZOOM' iteration as it's supposed to support 6.75lbs!

Last edited by Edvard_Grieg; 03-08-2008 at 12:07 PM.
03-08-2008, 01:02 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by Edvard_Grieg Quote
I went to REI yesterday and played with the GorillaPod SLR and the UltraPod II, I'm still looking at full-size tripods, but wanted something small and sturdy for now.

I found the GorillaPod to be pretty 'unhappy' under the weight of my K10D and 18-250, with a lighter lens it might have been better, but I just found more give/wobble than I was comfortable with. I ended up getting the UltraPod II and so far like it quite a bit. While it is nowhere near as flexible as the GorillaPod, it is a lot more stable, and it also has a ball head.

I did sneak in some sunset type shots last night, but given I was mounting off the top of my car, configuring settings didn't go real smoothly. I'll post them later today.


Edit: I just realized Joby has an 'SLR ZOOM' model, I only played with the normal 'SLR' model....I guess I'll need to try and track down that 'ZOOM' iteration as it's supposed to support 6.75lbs!
I forgot to mention i have the slr zoom model. heres a link to it:

Joby Gorillapod SLR Zoom - Large - ePhotoCraft
03-08-2008, 04:13 PM   #29
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03-08-2008, 07:40 PM   #30
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+1 to using a tripod... the single best upgrade you can add to your camera.
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