pentax A 50 f 1.2 or k 50 mm 1.2

zmohie · 10-24-2013, 12:31 PM

Hi pentaxians
I intend to buy one of these old lenses. I like the bokeh looking and I thought f 1.2 is the best choice regarding the bokeh work.
I noticed that there is 2 options No 1 is the A 50 and the second is the SMC 50. but the A version is expensive compare with the k . is it because the more rounded blades or there is some thing else.
I know also that A one is nearly 80 % auto but the k is full manual.
so which one do you prefer.
thanks so much.

aoeu · 10-24-2013, 12:43 PM

I don't list Pre-A lenses in my sig

because I use them so rarely. I might make an exception for a pre-A f1:1.2 given as a gift.

**Odinz** · 10-24-2013, 01:32 PM

I have owned both of these lenses and still own the A version. As far as I know they both have the same lens configuration and when shooting (at least back in the film days) both of them seemed to render images the same. Both are very well built with the original SMC being a little heavier due to using less plastic than the A version, but the A version is no slouch (hold an A1.4 and an A1.2 at the same time and you can definitely feel the difference) I kept the A version over the SMC version solely on the basis of the auto aperture contacts, you can't really go wrong with either lens. Just be prepared for paper thin DOF when shooting on digital it definitely takes some practice.

zmohie · 10-24-2013, 01:45 PM

thanks to aoeu and Odinz.
my question: is it worth to pay extra 200$ for the A version compare with the smc version/ smc is 450$ and the A version is 650$/ both are mint+.

lytrytyr · 10-24-2013, 02:11 PM

Originally posted by zmohie

Is it worth to pay extra 200$ for the A version compare with the smc version/ smc is 450$ and the A version is 650$/ both are mint+.

If you want to shoot hand-held at f/1.2, yes.

With the K version ("SMC"),
there'd be times when you'd need to hit the +/- button to set the exposure after focusing,
and it's too easy to move and lose your focus when you do that.

jaywes · 10-24-2013, 03:29 PM

I would say yes to the A version also. The K version is a lil more tedious to use than the A version with metering and such. (I have a m-50 1.4 and a-50 1.2). If it is worth the extra $200 is up to you. I lucked up and got a near mint A-50mm 1.2 for $350.

tripodquest · 10-24-2013, 04:31 PM

Originally posted by zmohie

thanks to aoeu and Odinz.
my question: is it worth to pay extra 200$ for the A version compare with the smc version/ smc is 450$ and the A version is 650$/ both are mint+.

I don't see why.

Originally posted by stevebrot

I own both the A 50/1.7 and the M 50/1.7.

The lenses are the same optically
The M's build and "feel" is superior to the A's (the A is made of plastic, the M is made of metal)
Most A 50/1.7 have defective aperture rings making use off the "A" setting almost impossible
The sole advantage to the A 50/1.7 is the higher compatibility on Pentax dSLR bodies and that is a huge advantage in my book. The "A" position allows full aperture control by the body to support program and shutter-priority exposure automation.

Steve

Why do you need to set the aperture digitally? You only need two fingers to set it manually. Do you need the camera to measure the exposure for you? Just choose the ISO, choose the shutter speed, choose the aperture, take the picture. If you have the experience, you will get the perfect exposure. Even if you miss by 1/3 stop, shooting RAW makes sure your picture isn't lost. How do you get the experience? Not by shooting Auto. How did photographers ever take any correctly exposed photos before autofocus and auto aperture? With skill, acquired through practice. Some of them weren't even taken on this planet. AA was invented in 1972. Great photographs were taken long before then.

elliott · 10-24-2013, 05:36 PM

Originally posted by tripodquest

Why do you need to set the aperture digitally? You only need two fingers to set it manually. Do you need the camera to measure the exposure for you? Just choose the ISO, choose the shutter speed, choose the aperture, take the picture. If you have the experience, you will get the perfect exposure. Even if you miss by 1/3 stop, shooting RAW makes sure your picture isn't lost. How do you get the experience? Not by shooting Auto. How did photographers ever take any correctly exposed photos before autofocus and auto aperture? With skill, acquired through practice. Some of them weren't even taken on this planet. AA was invented in 1972. Great photographs were taken long before then.

That is all well and good if you have the meter, but without an A lens you won't get metering without it being stopped down on a Pentax DSLR. Unless you're saying you can get within 1/3 stop without a meter just by experience.

Having an A lens in A mode does not mean you're shooting in Auto.

tripodquest · 10-24-2013, 05:57 PM

Originally posted by elliott

That is all well and good if you have the meter, but without an A lens you won't get metering without it being stopped down on a Pentax DSLR. Unless you're saying you can get within 1/3 stop without a meter just by experience.

Having an A lens in A mode does not mean you're shooting in Auto.

I shoot all my photos like that... I don't have any auto aperture lenses that I would use and I don't have any kind of meter either. And I don't even think I'm a spectacular photographer... I take photos because I enjoy it. A lot.

**Just1MoreDave** · 10-24-2013, 08:49 PM

The A version has 9 blades vs. 8 on the K, so a slightly rounder aperture and 18 point sun stars if you try hard. The K version would give you boring 8 point stars. The A setting puts the aperture in EXIF, allows matrix metering, is easier to use with a flash, shows the aperture in the viewfinder, and is pretty handy all around. It would be worth $200 because the added flexibility and f1.2 would make it general purpose instead of a specialty lens.

hoanpham · 10-25-2013, 12:09 AM

if the price is 200usd difference, get the K 50/1.2
The K version is better build. Sharpness at f1.2 is almost like A version if not the same.

Both beat any version at f1.4. Both hard to use well.
Correct focus, both are razor sharp, but focus is the hard part, and dof is also razor thin.
You will find out best distances, light conditions after a while.

Personally, I use +/- ev all the time, or in M-mode.

Click ring in K version can also set in half click. Between 1.2 and 1.4, just let the 'click' in midway.
f1.2 might glow a bit, but "let the 'click' in midway" is a 'compromise f1.2' and remove most of the glow.

regarding sun stars, use smaller/slower lenses or wide lenses. 50/1.2 needs to stop down to f16 to get sun stars.
when you pay for 1.2, use it at f1.2 and f1.4, or at f2.0.

f1.2 lenses are heavy. Bring the f1.7 version instead if weight and value is important during travel.

zmohie · 10-25-2013, 09:03 AM

thanks to all for the valued feedback.

tripodquest · 10-25-2013, 09:20 AM

Originally posted by hoanpham

if the price is 200usd difference, get the K 50/1.2
Click ring in K version can also set in half click. Between 1.2 and 1.4, just let the 'click' in midway.
f1.2 might glow a bit, but "let the 'click' in midway" is a 'compromise f1.2' and remove most of the glow.

l.

I do the same thing with my lenses! There is no harm from doing that, is there? The aperture is mechanical in manual lenses so I don't see why it would be harmful, but I wanted to ask just in case.

hoanpham · 10-25-2013, 11:34 AM

Originally posted by tripodquest

I do the same thing with my lenses! There is no harm from doing that, is there? The aperture is mechanical in manual lenses so I don't see why it would be harmful, but I wanted to ask just in case.

no harm. it is just mechanical aperture transfer.
i have a few lenses glow at wide open.
half click down is razor sharp. glow is gone 80-90% with 1/2 or 1/3 less than wide open.

zmohie · 10-26-2013, 01:05 PM

Thanks to all here
I realy appreciate your great and helpful feedback.
I got the smc 50 f 1.2 for 450$ mint+ and the A 50 f 1.4 . I now try to learn how to get the best outperforms of the both.
I like the looking of manual lenses.
now the k01 is ready to show its value.

10-24-2013, 12:31 PM	#1
zmohie Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: egypt Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 435	pentax A 50 f 1.2 or k 50 mm 1.2 Hi pentaxians I intend to buy one of these old lenses. I like the bokeh looking and I thought f 1.2 is the best choice regarding the bokeh work. I noticed that there is 2 options No 1 is the A 50 and the second is the SMC 50. but the A version is expensive compare with the k . is it because the more rounded blades or there is some thing else. I know also that A one is nearly 80 % auto but the k is full manual. so which one do you prefer. thanks so much.

10-24-2013, 12:43 PM	#2
aoeu Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Oregon Posts: 496	I don't list Pre-A lenses in my sig because I use them so rarely. I might make an exception for a pre-A f1:1.2 given as a gift. Last edited by aoeu; 10-24-2013 at 12:45 PM. Reason: typo

10-24-2013, 04:31 PM	#7
tripodquest Inactive Account Join Date: Oct 2013 Posts: 249	Originally posted by zmohie thanks to aoeu and Odinz. my question: is it worth to pay extra 200$ for the A version compare with the smc version/ smc is 450$ and the A version is 650$/ both are mint+. I don't see why. Originally posted by stevebrot I own both the A 50/1.7 and the M 50/1.7. The lenses are the same optically The M's build and "feel" is superior to the A's (the A is made of plastic, the M is made of metal) Most A 50/1.7 have defective aperture rings making use off the "A" setting almost impossible The sole advantage to the A 50/1.7 is the higher compatibility on Pentax dSLR bodies and that is a huge advantage in my book. The "A" position allows full aperture control by the body to support program and shutter-priority exposure automation. Steve Why do you need to set the aperture digitally? You only need two fingers to set it manually. Do you need the camera to measure the exposure for you? Just choose the ISO, choose the shutter speed, choose the aperture, take the picture. If you have the experience, you will get the perfect exposure. Even if you miss by 1/3 stop, shooting RAW makes sure your picture isn't lost. How do you get the experience? Not by shooting Auto. How did photographers ever take any correctly exposed photos before autofocus and auto aperture? With skill, acquired through practice. Some of them weren't even taken on this planet. AA was invented in 1972. Great photographs were taken long before then.

10-25-2013, 12:09 AM	#11
hoanpham Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Strand Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,366	if the price is 200usd difference, get the K 50/1.2 The K version is better build. Sharpness at f1.2 is almost like A version if not the same. Both beat any version at f1.4. Both hard to use well. Correct focus, both are razor sharp, but focus is the hard part, and dof is also razor thin. You will find out best distances, light conditions after a while. Personally, I use +/- ev all the time, or in M-mode. Click ring in K version can also set in half click. Between 1.2 and 1.4, just let the 'click' in midway. f1.2 might glow a bit, but "let the 'click' in midway" is a 'compromise f1.2' and remove most of the glow. regarding sun stars, use smaller/slower lenses or wide lenses. 50/1.2 needs to stop down to f16 to get sun stars. when you pay for 1.2, use it at f1.2 and f1.4, or at f2.0. f1.2 lenses are heavy. Bring the f1.7 version instead if weight and value is important during travel. Last edited by hoanpham; 10-25-2013 at 12:22 AM.

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10-24-2013, 01:32 PM	#3
Odinz Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Virginia, USA Photos: Albums Posts: 259	I have owned both of these lenses and still own the A version. As far as I know they both have the same lens configuration and when shooting (at least back in the film days) both of them seemed to render images the same. Both are very well built with the original SMC being a little heavier due to using less plastic than the A version, but the A version is no slouch (hold an A1.4 and an A1.2 at the same time and you can definitely feel the difference) I kept the A version over the SMC version solely on the basis of the auto aperture contacts, you can't really go wrong with either lens. Just be prepared for paper thin DOF when shooting on digital it definitely takes some practice.

10-24-2013, 01:45 PM	#4
zmohie Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: egypt Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 435 Original Poster	thanks to aoeu and Odinz. my question: is it worth to pay extra 200$ for the A version compare with the smc version/ smc is 450$ and the A version is 650$/ both are mint+.

10-24-2013, 02:11 PM	#5
lytrytyr Pentaxian Join Date: Nov 2011 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 4,310	Originally posted by zmohie Is it worth to pay extra 200$ for the A version compare with the smc version/ smc is 450$ and the A version is 650$/ both are mint+. If you want to shoot hand-held at f/1.2, yes. With the K version ("SMC"), there'd be times when you'd need to hit the +/- button to set the exposure after focusing, and it's too easy to move and lose your focus when you do that.

10-24-2013, 03:29 PM	#6
jaywes Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: New York, USA Posts: 235	I would say yes to the A version also. The K version is a lil more tedious to use than the A version with metering and such. (I have a m-50 1.4 and a-50 1.2). If it is worth the extra $200 is up to you. I lucked up and got a near mint A-50mm 1.2 for $350.

10-24-2013, 05:36 PM	#8
elliott Inactive Account Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: North Carolina Photos: Albums Posts: 1,720	Originally posted by tripodquest Why do you need to set the aperture digitally? You only need two fingers to set it manually. Do you need the camera to measure the exposure for you? Just choose the ISO, choose the shutter speed, choose the aperture, take the picture. If you have the experience, you will get the perfect exposure. Even if you miss by 1/3 stop, shooting RAW makes sure your picture isn't lost. How do you get the experience? Not by shooting Auto. How did photographers ever take any correctly exposed photos before autofocus and auto aperture? With skill, acquired through practice. Some of them weren't even taken on this planet. AA was invented in 1972. Great photographs were taken long before then. That is all well and good if you have the meter, but without an A lens you won't get metering without it being stopped down on a Pentax DSLR. Unless you're saying you can get within 1/3 stop without a meter just by experience. Having an A lens in A mode does not mean you're shooting in Auto.

10-24-2013, 05:57 PM	#9
tripodquest Inactive Account Join Date: Oct 2013 Posts: 249	Originally posted by elliott That is all well and good if you have the meter, but without an A lens you won't get metering without it being stopped down on a Pentax DSLR. Unless you're saying you can get within 1/3 stop without a meter just by experience. Having an A lens in A mode does not mean you're shooting in Auto. I shoot all my photos like that... I don't have any auto aperture lenses that I would use and I don't have any kind of meter either. And I don't even think I'm a spectacular photographer... I take photos because I enjoy it. A lot.

10-24-2013, 08:49 PM	#10
Just1MoreDave Site Supporter Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Aurora, CO Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 6,340	The A version has 9 blades vs. 8 on the K, so a slightly rounder aperture and 18 point sun stars if you try hard. The K version would give you boring 8 point stars. The A setting puts the aperture in EXIF, allows matrix metering, is easier to use with a flash, shows the aperture in the viewfinder, and is pretty handy all around. It would be worth $200 because the added flexibility and f1.2 would make it general purpose instead of a specialty lens.

10-25-2013, 09:03 AM	#12
zmohie Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: egypt Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 435 Original Poster	thanks to all for the valued feedback.

10-25-2013, 09:20 AM	#13
tripodquest Inactive Account Join Date: Oct 2013 Posts: 249	Originally posted by hoanpham if the price is 200usd difference, get the K 50/1.2 Click ring in K version can also set in half click. Between 1.2 and 1.4, just let the 'click' in midway. f1.2 might glow a bit, but "let the 'click' in midway" is a 'compromise f1.2' and remove most of the glow. l. I do the same thing with my lenses! There is no harm from doing that, is there? The aperture is mechanical in manual lenses so I don't see why it would be harmful, but I wanted to ask just in case.

10-25-2013, 11:34 AM	#14
hoanpham Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Strand Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,366	Originally posted by tripodquest I do the same thing with my lenses! There is no harm from doing that, is there? The aperture is mechanical in manual lenses so I don't see why it would be harmful, but I wanted to ask just in case. no harm. it is just mechanical aperture transfer. i have a few lenses glow at wide open. half click down is razor sharp. glow is gone 80-90% with 1/2 or 1/3 less than wide open.

10-26-2013, 01:05 PM	#15
zmohie Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: egypt Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 435 Original Poster	Thanks to all here I realy appreciate your great and helpful feedback. I got the smc 50 f 1.2 for 450$ mint+ and the A 50 f 1.4 . I now try to learn how to get the best outperforms of the both. I like the looking of manual lenses. now the k01 is ready to show its value.