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11-26-2013, 01:02 AM   #16
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It's funny that you mention shooting with both eyes open, I do that a lot. It started when I was doing some documentary shots years ago and I wanted to be aware of who is about to enter my frame. I used it during the game too, although just occasionally. I agree with the other opinions, keeping both eyes open can be very useful.

11-26-2013, 09:04 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by rrstuff Quote
It's funny that you mention shooting with both eyes open, I do that a lot. It started when I was doing some documentary shots years ago and I wanted to be aware of who is about to enter my frame. I used it during the game too, although just occasionally. I agree with the other opinions, keeping both eyes open can be very useful.
Oh yea... This is another good tip that i do often too...
Kinda have to switch from left brain to right brain.. LoL!
How i do that, i'm not sure too! I guess one just have to concentrate on the left eye and then switch over to the right eye in a moment's notice.
11-26-2013, 09:30 AM   #18
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I shot some school baseball for a friend of mine who was a coach. My favorite lens to use for this was my old Tamron SP 23A 60-300 MF zoom. I also shot with both eyes open so I could see what was about to happen in-frame.
01-07-2014, 02:26 PM   #19
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I am thinking of getting my first manual lens and using catch in focus for portraits. In theory, if I put my selected autofocus point on the persons eye and throw my focus from in front of the person to the behind them, should I get good results? And do I have to focus slowly for the camera to keep up or can this be done quickly?

01-07-2014, 04:25 PM   #20
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Go slow with the focus ring. It's easy to overshoot and miss. Practice for a while with something that doesn't move and you'll get the hang of it.
01-07-2014, 04:59 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by stillshot2 Quote
I am thinking of getting my first manual lens and using catch in focus for portraits. In theory, if I put my selected autofocus point on the persons eye and throw my focus from in front of the person to the behind them, should I get good results? And do I have to focus slowly for the camera to keep up or can this be done quickly?
Focus back and forth. The rate of change of focus will give you an idea where where the focus should be, even if you can't see much of a difference.
Another thing I do is focusing on an open aperture, using focus confirmation, then stopping down by half a stop for some leeway (with non-A lenses).

I think MF is easier for portraits, because you can choose the focus point. If you have focus keying it will be very helpful in some cases. Otherwise, one of those viewfinder magnifiers might be helpful.
01-07-2014, 05:51 PM   #22
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I just want to say nice job with the manual lens, your results are super. I still use manual lenses for sports on occasion. The catch in focus feature on our Pentax cameras works well and and as in the case of motorcycle ice racing, a manual lens is better than AF because once the snow gets flying, you start loosing focus. For portraits, I use my one of my fast 50's or a 135 but rely on my own eyes rather than the camera. The same is true for macro. An important thing to remember for MF. Adjust your diopter setting on the viewfinder and check it on occasion as it is possible to change unintentionally with general handling of the camera.
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