Originally posted by davids8560 Anyway, I saw a chart recently that seemed to say f/2.8 on the Panasonic FZ200 is really f/15.5, because of the sensor size or something, and that by comparison the f/5.6 on the Canon 18-135 lens is really much brighter than f/5.6, and that it's not really a 18-135 zoom but actually reaches much longer, because of its sensor size or mount whatever. And so I felt confused.
And I wanted to know what the lens numbers mean to my K-5, like if a 50mm reach is actually 75 or something on the K-5, or the F/2.8 is actually bigger or smaller.
There's a few things to consider.
When you're trying to compare cameras with different sensor sizes, specifically...
1) Field of View (FOV - what's in the picture)
2) Signal to noise ratio (SNR - how noisy the picture is... and usually fidelity of colors scale with this as well)
3) Depth of field (DOF - how far in front and behind the focal point is actually 'in focus')
Those ^ things scale with equivalent f-stop, equivalent focal length, and equivalent ISO.
When you're trying to figure out the actual ISO, you can either convert from 'equivalent ISO' (in practice no one does this) or you can use the
A) actual f-stop
B) actual shutter speed
C) actual ISO.
You've already chosen a sensor (in your K-5) with a crop factor of about 1.53. So, let's say you wanted to take an 'average' picture - in 35mm/full-frame terms, that's generally defined as 50mm. Let's say you were used to a 50mm F/1.8 lens... thirty years ago this would've been a standard lens that most consumers would own.
If you wanted to replicate this lens on your camera, you would take
1) Equivalent focal length = 50mm/1.53... approximately 35mm
2) Equivalent aperture: = 1.8/1.53... approximately F/1.2.
A 18-135mm, on an 'average' DSLR (crop factor of 1.53) would have a much, much larger equivalent aperture than any point-and-shoot camera, where the crop factors are generally in the 4x to 7x variety, which is what your author was actually speaking to.
In practice, if you don't already have a baseline of what a '35mm' or P&S camera does with aperture/dof/noise, you're probably better off delaying learning about equivalence unless/until you think about switching to a camera with a different sized sensor.