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12-19-2013, 04:46 PM   #31
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1000$ is not much but...

Lanscapes, potraits, street&general use tamron 17-50 f2.8

Ok Tripod with arca ballhead is must with landscapes. I would get also cheap china L-plate, infrared remote, variable ND filter 67mm, extra battery.

For potraits cheap china youngnuo 560 flash, 43" Westcott Double-Fold umbrella, lightstand&umbrella flash holder, recarchable batteries, radiotiggers.

For concerts and festifals is not much money left i think...maybe something secondhand tele f2.8 lens like 70-200, 135mm...even manual focus lens.

12-19-2013, 05:03 PM   #32
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I'd go with something like:

- Sigma 10-20mm F/4-5.6 ($350 used)
- Sirui T-025x ($250)
- Strong ND filter ($70ish)
- DA 35mm F/2.4 ($180ish)
- DA 50mm F/1.8 ($150ish?)

But that might change if you want longer and/or macro.
12-19-2013, 08:55 PM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by miltona580 Quote
I'd get the FA 31 Limited.
If you can get that for $1000; maybe second hand?
12-19-2013, 09:39 PM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by carrrlangas Quote
I had very good results back when the DA18-55WR was my only WR lens. I do notice all the better in the DA16-50 I got later but the kit lens was really good stopped down to f/8 or f/11.. More so for landscapes. So I am intrigued, as I know you print large, is that the reason you find the kit lens images unusable? or because it wasn´t wide enough? I am also puzzled because I see heavy post prossesing on the images you share frequently and thought that might minimize the performance difference between the kit lens and the DA16-50 for example.
It is not that I find them unusable, it is more that I would like to have more than exceptional glass to shoot photos with. Any pictures that you have seen of mine were processed when I had had less than 2 weeks training with post processing...just fyi I hope that my skills have improved in that area! I really want pictures that pop with crispiness before any processing, so that I can use minimal processing. However, I understand your point, and I am now probably not going to buy a fancy lens yet

12-19-2013, 09:42 PM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
you have a few good suggestions, for shooting portraits, though, I would propose the OP to look at for the long end, preset (with round aperture) 135's and 200's the rendering of the OOF is quite different than a non preset lens, even though the lenses at the same aperture have the same DOF. the presets add a dreamy quality to a portrait, and are great (especially tele's) for outdoor portraits.
This is intriguing to me, is there any way you can dig me up examples of the differences of these round aperture effects?
12-19-2013, 10:00 PM   #36
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Hello all, thank you again for all of the advice. As I stand now it looks like I will first be buying a ND filter and a circular polarizer. As I have a revankar 75$ tripod that is heavy, I have still managed to lug it around , even backpacking Alaska. I may start sniffing around for a lightweight travel tripod. As far as lenses go, I will probably just remind myself that I am still a noob and roll with my Kit lens. More than likely though I will keep my eyes out on ebay for some of those nifty Takumar lenses that were mentioned SMC 50 mm 1.4, , or the 50 mm Tak 4 element Tessar sounded cool. As much as I would love a crispy new limited edition "crack cocaine" style lens, I always told myself that I would keep shooting with my Kit until I found my limitations. Since I am still shooting pictures I love all the time I guess I am not there yet...thank you all for the feedback! Here is some of my recent pictures, not my best, nor my worst, just recent (and ya, they are kinda heavy post processed...) Sunrise at the Colorado Lagoon in Long Beach, Ca | Breadfork.com
12-19-2013, 11:31 PM   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by spectamaniac Quote
You have exactly 1000 dollars,a k-30, and a 18-55 WR lens. You love seeing beautiful colors in your photos, greens, reds ,blues, all of it is glorious!
You love to backpack and shoot landscapes. You love street photography, day and night. You love shooting concerts and festivals. The idea of shooting portraits is definitely appealing. The idea of a prime lens IQ is very riveting, but the versatility of an 18-135 is also pretty appealing. You have been shooting for a little over a year with your K-30 and have decided it is time to up your game. You are torn between buying a few 2-300 dollar lenses, or one badass 900 dollar lens. The idea of buying a couple vintage lenses in combination with a nice 7-800 dollar modern lens will work as well.
So I have been researching off and on for quite awhile, and I am getting ready to make a move, I just thought I would get the opinion of some veterans that may have some nice insight into my situation. Thanks!
At the risk of seeming a spoilsport, I think you should consider sticking with what you have and spending the money on a couple of air tickets to interesting places. That can have quite an impact on one's photography. Just a thought. .
12-20-2013, 01:03 AM   #38
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Lenses on ebay...

If you do fish ebay for the 50mm 1.4 SMC Tak, or the 50mm F4.0 MACRO Tak, consider spending a few more $$ for where the description specifically says: 'Mould and fungus free... Haze free.. etc.' and the Seller offers a return. While this is usually more of a problem on Zooms - it can occur on Primes as well. Particularly from 'estate sellers' and 'casual housewife'-type sellers. (Not that they are deceiving anyone - they may just not know about it).

There is also the Forsale here on pentaxforums, where you can have some assurance the seller knows about such issues and knows he should mention them.

When I do see an interesting ebay lens where this is not mentioned, I try and email (thru ebay contact mechanism) the seller and ask - also explaining how to check for fungus, haze, and 'sticky blades' (sticky blades not really usually a problem the way we use the lens, but it does lower the value)

The Pentax Lens section here on the Forums also has a lot of info on M42s - and sometimes photo examples.. For one: Takumar/Tele-Takumar 200mm F5.6 Reviews - M42 Screwmount Telephoto Primes - Pentax Lens Reviews & Lens Database


Last edited by cahudson42; 12-20-2013 at 01:47 AM. Reason: ebay cautions
12-20-2013, 02:00 AM   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by timo Quote
At the risk of seeming a spoilsport, I think you should consider sticking with what you have and spending the money on a couple of air tickets to interesting places. That can have quite an impact on one's photography. Just a thought. .
Indeed I will not be spending anywhwere near 1000 dollars, and some other people mentioned travel as well, i am heeding this advice
QuoteOriginally posted by cahudson42 Quote
If you do fish ebay for the 50mm 1.4 SMC Tak, or the 50mm F4.0 MACRO Tak, consider spending a few more $$ for where the description specifically says: 'Mould and fungus free... Haze free.. etc.' and the Seller offers a return. While this is usually more of a problem on Zooms - it can occur on Primes as well. Particularly from 'estate sellers' and 'casual housewife'-type sellers. (Not that they are deceiving anyone - they may just not know about it).
As a biologist I will indeed steer clear of all things fungus....( well most things)..
12-20-2013, 02:37 AM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by spectamaniac Quote
Indeed I will not be spending anywhwere near 1000 dollars, and some other people mentioned travel as well, i am heeding this advice

As a biologist I will indeed steer clear of all things fungus....( well most things)..
If I had 1000 dollars,a k-30, and a 18-55 WR, I will buy : 15mm ltd, 70mm ltd to complete. And later a 35ltd and /or 20-40mm, 100mm WR...
12-20-2013, 05:35 AM   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by spectamaniac Quote
This is intriguing to me, is there any way you can dig me up examples of the differences of these round aperture effects?
A long time ago I did a side by side of 3 different 135mm lenses in the 135mm lens club. I used day lilies as a subject. The OFF was quite different between the SMC tak 135 and a tele-lentar preset 135

It is a long discussion point
12-20-2013, 08:54 AM   #42
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What a response to this thread! This is fun, I wish there were more posts like this.
So, i gather you like landscapes (very WIDE), street (Wide-Normal, and stealthy), and are interested in portraiture (short Tele, Fast aperture). Also, you pursue this photography while traveling.

Unfortunately, this covers a spectrum of focal lengths.
For the landscape you a very wide lens, with little distortion.
Sigma 10-20/4-5.6 ($429 new)

Street is comprising primarily of 35mm (on ff) with 28mm and 50mm also being popular.
DSLRs are not the best at street due to their size and "professional appearance"
Frankly, my favorites for Street are an Olympus XA (film camera) or an Olympus E-p2 with the f/8 body cap lens.
Street is more about feel, timing, and stealth than optical performance.
If you are interested in still using your k30, which is reasonable since you travel, a old 28mm pentax lens would work great.
Use that K mount, put on a Pentax-m 28/3.5 ($70), set the aperture to f/8, set the focus distance to 3 meters (hold it there with a little gaffer tape), and everything from 5 feet to infinity will be in focus.
Then shoot quickly and quietly.

That leaves $500 for portraits. Which is good, because that is expensive.
Here fast aperture (f/2.8) zooms (70-200mm) are king. But, they are also expensive. A Tamron 70-200 2.8 may be found for $500 used if you are patient.
However, since you travel, lugging a mega 2.8 tele is unrealistic. There for a prime is the answer.
To keep the Limited fan boys happy, find yourself a used Limitied DA-70mm ($420)

If you want a single lens for $500 that can handle all three aspects Very Well, the Sigma 17-70/2.8-4 Macro Contemporary is a reasonable solution. I have been using this lens for two weeks and could not be happier. There is distortion on the short end, much more noticeable in portrait than landscape, but from 50-70 it is Awesome. Also its minimum focus distance is so short the lens hood actually gets in the way. Think about it.
This way you could take one lens on your trip that you just spent the remaining $500 on.

Last edited by Jon; 12-20-2013 at 09:03 AM.
12-20-2013, 09:31 AM   #43
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jon Quote
Use that K mount, put on a Pentax-m 28/3.5 ($70), set the aperture to f/8, set the focus distance to 3 meters (hold it there with a little gaffer tape), and everything from 5 feet to infinity will be in focus. Then shoot quickly and quietly.
Thank you for all of the advice. I'm curious about why putting tape on the aperture ring?
QuoteOriginally posted by Jon Quote
Then shoot quickly and quietly.
I take a different approach. With a nice DSLR in hand the attention whores of all sorts start puffing their chests out, I take notice and interact with them. Occasionally they will be my subject of interest, other times it is a friend of theirs or someone/something in proximity. Since I can be an attention whore myself sometimes it works perfectly for street. Talk to a group of people long enough and take pictures at semi frequent intervals, eventually they become oblivious and you can achieve the more candid shots, not to mention make a friend or 2.
12-20-2013, 09:38 AM   #44
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Your 18-55 wr is not as bad of a lens as some people may want you to believe. I have a k30, 18-55 dal, da 50mm 1.8, and 55-300 dal. The only 3 lenses I will ever need that give me: wide angle, low light/ bokeh, and reach- all with good enough sharpness most people should ever need. The new HD 55-300 WR looks very tempting and would be great for portraits at the 85-135 range but still give you the reach for wildlife.
12-20-2013, 09:49 AM   #45
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QuoteOriginally posted by spectamaniac Quote
Thank you for all of the advice. I'm curious about why putting tape on the aperture ring?
So he does not have to keep checking it. It won't move off focus. Been there, done that, with the M 28/3.5.
QuoteQuote:

I take a different approach. With a nice DSLR in hand the attention whores of all sorts start puffing their chests out, I take notice and interact with them. Occasionally they will be my subject of interest, other times it is a friend of theirs or someone/something in proximity. Since I can be an attention whore myself sometimes it works perfectly for street. Talk to a group of people long enough and take pictures at semi frequent intervals, eventually they become oblivious and you can achieve the more candid shots, not to mention make a friend or 2.
I use the same trick with children. It's interesting to see the old guy with the black thing in front of his face for about 2 minutes, then it's back to the important things like squabbling over the toys. I've made a dollar or two over the years doing kid pix. The parents love them, especially the parents who hate the Walmart photo studio shots.

Here's one example. It's the parents' favourite, but not the one they sent out for Xmas cards. To set the stage, 15 minutes into the shoot. Parents and child on couch, backdrop behind, two studio flashes in umbrellas, and trigger flash on camera, camera on tripod, old fart behind camera with cable release in hand. Pushed a button occasionally.
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