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01-05-2014, 08:22 AM   #16
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I like to use metal hoods that are marked as to what lens they're for. That allows me to figure in the crop factor and sometimes use a hood that's often deeper than the standard hood. For instance, on my 85mm, I use a hood designed for a 135 -150mm lens. I'm sitting here looking at a lens that's been on my desk for a while. I thought it was my 85, but it's a 50mm f1.7 with a Pentax hood designed for a 135mm. That's pretty extreme, but I haven't had any problems with vignetting that I remember. I pick up hoods whenever I find them and now have a box of various sizes that I can go through to find something that works. I pick up lens caps, too, so that once I find a hood that works, I can usually find a cap for the end of the hood.

01-05-2014, 11:19 AM   #17
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Yes, I use the 200mm f5.6 takumar hood on my 50mm f1.7 (M) w/o vignetting, but more usually (for wider lenses) I use a hood that was originally for a lens of roughly 50% longer FL. e.g., a 35mm hood on a 24mm lens.
01-05-2014, 12:35 PM   #18
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I just remembered, some people like to use a step down ring as a lens hood! But you have to be careful, because that can effectively work as an aperture. The example was someone using a 50mm f1.4 lens with a stop down ring as hood and claimed their lens became sharper. Which it did - it became stopped down to f2.0 due to the small aperture of the step down ring. A DoF measure confirmed this. Just another thing to think about
01-12-2014, 06:52 AM   #19
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For almost all of my lenses I use metal screw in circular hoods. For almost all of them (35mm or longer) I can use the takumar 135/150/200 hood without vignetting. But the 18-55 vignettes so easily that the included petal shape hood might be the only option. The wide angle collapsible hood vignettes a fair amount at the wide end of the kit lens. If you insist on buying a metal hood then get the absolute shortest and widest one that is sold. Of course that won't help much at 55mm.

01-12-2014, 09:41 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by TaoMaas Quote
I like to use metal hoods that are marked as to what lens they're for. That allows me to figure in the crop factor and sometimes use a hood that's often deeper than the standard hood.
There's both math formulas and simple trial-and-error methods to calculate and predict useful hood dimensions. Some discussion here for those interested:
DIY Lens Hoods - no math required

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