[jerryleejr]

Done a lot of research and the Pentax 100mm macro keeps coming to the top. Looking to shoot some miniature models indoors. Some individually and some in groups. Just curious as to usability in tight spaces...

JJ

[boriscleto]

The longer the focal length the longer the working distance. In tight spaces a 50mm or even the 35mm Ltd might be better. You might even be able to use a lens you already have with a Raynox adapter.

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/54-pentax-lens-articles/152336-cheap-macr...lose-work.html

[Adam]

Done a lot of research and the Pentax 100mm macro keeps coming to the top. Looking to shoot some miniature models indoors. Some individually and some in groups. Just curious as to usability in tight spaces...

JJ

For tight spaces I'd go with a 50mm most likely, but it really depends on how much room you have to work with. The 35mm requires you to be way to close for 1:1 IMO.

[jerryleejr]

For tight spaces I'd go with a 50mm most likely, but it really depends on how much room you have to work with. The 35mm requires you to be way to close for 1:1 IMO.

Basically a table in my living room, depending on how many models or scenes I want to get in frame determines the room I have to work with...

JJ

[dms]

I think Boriscleto's suggestion makes most sense.

If you are shooting models you presumably are not at high magnification. If the models are, for example, about 4", you need about magnification 0.25, and I would guess 35-50mm macro is more likely the range you need.

Try what lenses you have, and if none are even close, get an extension set (if you have lens w/ aperture ring any K set will work) or an inexpensive set of diopters (often +1,+2, +3 or +4), or the Rayonox. And then you can work out what the effective FL, and then buy the macro lens, if the quality is not good enough (and f/11 for example what you have might be fine),

[jerryleejr]

I think Boriscleto's suggestion makes most sense. If you are shooting models you presumably are not at high magnification. If the models are, for example, about 4", you need about magnification 0.25, and I would guess 35-50mm macro is more likely the range you need.

But my suggestion is you try what lenses you have, and if none are even close, get an extension set (if you have lens w/ aperture ring any K set will work) or an inexpensive set of diopters (often +1,+2, +3 or +4). And then you can work out what the effective FL, and then buy the macro lens, if the quality is not good enough (and f/11 for example what you have might be fine),

Already on it, will post some results with what I have...

JJ

[Tanzer]

Don't forget the lowly 18-55 kit lens has a close focus range similar to the old zoom lenses of yesteryear which were often duriously labeled as "macro". Not a true macro in either case, just suggesting you give that a try.

[Drake Avenue]

If you're mainly going to be indoors, the Sigma EX DG 70mm f2.8 Macro is amazingly sharp and can be used in tight spaces.

[Not a Number]

If space is tight you don't want to use a 100mm. I find a 100mm too long to use inside a greenhouse where there is only 18-24 inches between benches.

However if you want to take close-up detail shots the longer subject to lens distance makes lighting easier.

[Kona]

I have a 90mm (Tamron) and 50mm (FA 2.8 Macro) and find both good for shooting figures. The 50mm is more flexible though, I think. The 90 is best for getting in real close, but for capturing entire 1/8 scale figures, I have to be about two meters away.

[SpecialK]

I used a Tamron 90 on these. They are about 2-3 inches high.



These might be little bigger.

[jerryleejr]

I used a Tamron 90 on these. They are about 2-3 inches high.



These might be little bigger.

I would say that's average size or smaller for what I'm doing. There is just a lot of detail on models...

JJ

[dms]

In close up the depth of field is dependent on magnification, not FL; however, perspective issues are similar to ordinary photography. A long FL means greater distance and thus flatter looking, a shorter FL means closer and thus more "roundness" and areas closest to lens are relatively larger--just like in portrait photography.

[mee]

Small figures in a living room.. I don't think the 100mm Macro is going to be an issue at 1:1

I regularly shoot with a Sigma 105mm macro and have never been in the situation where I felt I couldn't get close enough.. even indoors shooting in my small living room. I'm about 7 or so inches away from my subjects IIRC. If anything, I've wanted MORE space between me and my subjects.

In any case, I wouldn't worry about Minimum Focusing Distance over Working Distance. If I understand this correctly, MFD is the space between the sensor and your subject while the WD is the space between the end of the lens and your subject.

Also, I would agree with the sentiment shown here that a macro focal length below 50mm is probably going to be too close -- You must also think lighting and if you are using (as example) a 35mm macro, then I am afraid the working distance could be a bit tight for proper lighting.

[carrrlangas]

How is it nobody suggested the excelent and cheap M50 f/4 MACRO 1:2 yet? Full manual lens with great sharpness (contrast a little lacking like most old lenses). Ithink it sells for arround U$80 in the marketplace... Really good place to start.