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03-06-2014, 03:46 PM   #1
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Lens for indoor hockey

Which lens is better for indoor hockey, tamron 28-300 or Pentax 70-210?

JJ

03-06-2014, 04:13 PM   #2
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I guess it really depends on how bright the rink/surface is. Nice bright lights will allow for higher shutter speed, less blur/grain.
03-06-2014, 04:19 PM   #3
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It's usually pretty
Bright. And I like the 70-210 better just get a little more reach with the tamron...

JJ
03-06-2014, 04:46 PM   #4
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In my experience, an f2.8 is required and even the you will be at ISO3200 to stay around 1/500 sec.

03-06-2014, 05:39 PM   #5
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Guess it doesn't matter they won't allow cameras with lenses over 6" anyway...
03-06-2014, 06:08 PM   #6
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How Long?

Hi JJ,
That six-inch lens length provision is a new one on me! Are they saying total lens length, for the unmounted lens? If so, it still lets quite a few older primes and probably some new ones, too. I measured a few Legacy lenses, fully retracted;
Most 100mm prime teles are shorter, my smc A 135mm f/2.8 is right at 4", the M 200mm f/4.0 is just 5", even the Pentax F 70-200mm f/4-5.6 is under 6" fully retracted. It is much longer than 6" at full zoom and focus, however.
A surprise to me was the FA 100-300mm f/4.7-5.8 (silver version), which stands exactly 6" fully retracted. And over 8-1/2" fully extended.
But for zoom use indoors, the faster the better, and the f/2.8 zooms are pretty big.
A fast 100, 135 or 200mm prime might be the best bet, for cost/performance and size. Not for versatility, though.
Choices!
Ron
03-06-2014, 06:08 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by fzrcraig Quote
In my experience, an f2.8 is required and even the you will be at ISO3200 to stay around 1/500 sec.
This is exactly what I experienced with ice hockey. Ice hockey is a bit easier because the white ice reflects light like crazy, adding brightness that would not be there on a gym floor.

I got away with f/4 at 1/400 at ISO1600-2000, occasionally hitting as high as 3200. But that was in a very well light minor league area. In a typical barn-like arena, I'd expect 2.8 or 3.2 to be necessary. 1/400is just a hair too slow; 1/500 or higher is necessary to freeze action totally. The game is just too fast!

03-07-2014, 08:47 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by MadMathMind Quote
This is exactly what I experienced with ice hockey. Ice hockey is a bit easier because the white ice reflects light like crazy, adding brightness that would not be there on a gym floor.

I got away with f/4 at 1/400 at ISO1600-2000, occasionally hitting as high as 3200. But that was in a very well light minor league area. In a typical barn-like arena, I'd expect 2.8 or 3.2 to be necessary. 1/400is just a hair too slow; 1/500 or higher is necessary to freeze action totally. The game is just too fast!
I agree on the ice reflecting light. I took some shots last year with Will Wheaton, Kristy Swanson and a few other Hollywood folks at the local 4th of July curling bonspiel here in SoCal. One thing you may / may not notice might be dynamic range - depending on the subject/background. As white reflects a lot of that light - hope they don't show up as a silhouette.
03-07-2014, 10:12 AM   #9
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I also had to autocorrect the levels of all my hockey images. The whites won't come out quite white, probably because their real color value is 255. The camera is smart enough to realize how that would lead to awful clipping, so it bumps the levels down a bit. Fortunately, a few quick mouse clicks in Photoshop or other editing program will take care of it.
03-07-2014, 10:18 AM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by MadMathMind Quote
I also had to autocorrect the levels of all my hockey images. The whites won't come out quite white, probably because their real color value is 255. The camera is smart enough to realize how that would lead to awful clipping, so it bumps the levels down a bit. Fortunately, a few quick mouse clicks in Photoshop or other editing program will take care of it.
Not the camera realizing it would lead to awful clipping, it's the metering system figuring there won't be so much bright white in the frame! You could dial in some exposure compensation and get the whites whiter in camera, but if you're not losing shadow detail, having darker images will help a bit with shutter speed.

Primes would work with the 6" lens rule, which is a ridiculous rule.

Same thing with other places not allowing 'professional' cameras. What defines those? No doubt my 4x5 would be flagged as a 'professional' camera, so I have responses lined up for that =P.

If you need the reach, a fast prime (135 f/2.5 maybe?) with a teleconverter might be the ticket. The 'lens' wouldn't be longer than 6", and you'd get twice the reach =)
03-07-2014, 12:10 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by rbefly Quote
Hi JJ,
That six-inch lens length provision is a new one on me! Are they saying total lens length, for the unmounted lens? If so, it still lets quite a few older primes and probably some new ones, too. I measured a few Legacy lenses, fully retracted;
Most 100mm prime teles are shorter, my smc A 135mm f/2.8 is right at 4", the M 200mm f/4.0 is just 5", even the Pentax F 70-200mm f/4-5.6 is under 6" fully retracted. It is much longer than 6" at full zoom and focus, however.
A surprise to me was the FA 100-300mm f/4.7-5.8 (silver version), which stands exactly 6" fully retracted. And over 8-1/2" fully extended.
But for zoom use indoors, the faster the better, and the f/2.8 zooms are pretty big.
A fast 100, 135 or 200mm prime might be the best bet, for cost/performance and size. Not for versatility, though.
Choices!
Ron
It's length of lens mounted, and depending on who checks it they will have u extend it...

JJ
03-07-2014, 01:07 PM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by jerryleejr Quote
It's length of lens mounted, and depending on who checks it they will have u extend it...

JJ
Are they really that strict? I think their point is they don't want pros with 500mm lenses in there, or even normal people with huge lenses that disrupt other patrons. I doubt they'll pull out a ruler and measure, no? If you walk in with a 70-200 f/2.8, you'll probably be in trouble, but otherwise, I struggle to imagine them being hawks about it. Just stuff it in your bag and shoot from your seat; no one is likely to catch you from there.
03-07-2014, 01:17 PM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by MadMathMind Quote
Are they really that strict? I think their point is they don't want pros with 500mm lenses in there, or even normal people with huge lenses that disrupt other patrons. I doubt they'll pull out a ruler and measure, no? If you walk in with a 70-200 f/2.8, you'll probably be in trouble, but otherwise, I struggle to imagine them being hawks about it. Just stuff it in your bag and shoot from your seat; no one is likely to catch you from there.
Yeah, it's hard to imagine that there will be issues if you're not interfering with anything.

If I were in your shoes taking a Q with a 50mm f/1.7 or f/1.4 on it could be quite handy...
03-07-2014, 01:48 PM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by fretlessdavis Quote
Yeah, it's hard to imagine that there will be issues if you're not interfering with anything.
Well, the only real potential issue is copyrights and payments. If this is a pro or semi-pro hockey event, then I could see them not wanting people who take photographs that rival the paid professionals (who are also likely paying the team/arena). If that's not an issue, then as long as you don't disrupt anything, I can't see too many issues if you keep it discreet.
03-07-2014, 10:03 PM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by MadMathMind Quote
Well, the only real potential issue is copyrights and payments. If this is a pro or semi-pro hockey event, then I could see them not wanting people who take photographs that rival the paid professionals (who are also likely paying the team/arena). If that's not an issue, then as long as you don't disrupt anything, I can't see too many issues if you keep it discreet.
They have a big disclaimer, along with the lens restriction, no social media postings of pics recordings etc...so I wasn't gonna chance it....

JJ
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