[starjedi]

When samyang will do that or this is just rumors ? and question how accurate their autofocus will be
have you tried use samyang with catch-in-focus function ?

It is just rumor so far.. Currently we do not know anything about their autofocus.

I have no experience on the catch-in-focus function for Samyang. Basically I am in the same situation as you. I am also considering a portrait lens among Samyang 85/DA 70/FA 77. It is a hard decision but I am not in hurry as I find DA 50 1.8 is a very sharp lens and also good for portrait (especially indoor!). And for indoor portrait, I just doubt Pentax's standard portrait lens DA*55 can do better than DA 50 as the former is very soft at 1.4.

[MSL]

even with catch-in-focus function ?

On the K-5 the focus spots are a lot larger than they appear in the view finder. So CIF isn't going to ensure that the eyes are in focus, if that is what you are aiming for, just some random region near the eyes. And since some part of the face is going to be in focus most of the time, you'll end up taking a lot of shots that won't quite be what you want. I figure I have better luck waiting for my victim to sit still than to try CIF, but neither method is ideal. Note that this is an exercise I do for my own fun more than anything else; it certainly isn't a technique I'd use if I was shooting a fixed photo session.

[Nick Siebers]

For portraits, if you want the whole face in focus, usually your are stopped down to at least f/4, probably f/5.6 is better. F/1.4 SOUNDS great in theory, but in reality the standard focus screen plus thin DOF makes for a lot of "that would have been great if only her eyes were a bit sharper, like her nose is". I would go for the DA70 in a heartbeat over the manual 85/1.4. It is a bit more expensive, but for kids I find AF gets me there a lot faster.

[repaap]

It is just rumor so far.. Currently we do not know anything about their autofocus.

I have no experience on the catch-in-focus function for Samyang. Basically I am in the same situation as you. I am also considering a portrait lens among Samyang 85/DA 70/FA 77. It is a hard decision but I am not in hurry as I find DA 50 1.8 is a very sharp lens and also good for portrait (especially indoor!). And for indoor portrait, I just doubt Pentax's standard portrait lens DA*55 can do better than DA 50 as the former is very soft at 1.4.

Ummm, I have DA*55 and it is not very soft @ 1.4 and by 1.8, (where DA50/1.8 is soft, as soft as DA*55 @1.4) DA* is alreay sharp enough for portraits. Actally f 2.8 is good and f 4 is even better for most portraits except when you want to achieve just one eye in focus look. And DA*will have edge in here too. But it is more expensive too.

I have also samyang 85/1.4 really sharp from 1.4. Stopped downd even better. But I'm selling my copy because it is too narrow for my use. I prefer DA*55. But DA70 might be better for my taste. Still I'd go for my 55 for portraits.

Just my 2 cents.

[Doundounba]

It might also be worth thinking some more about which circumstances you'll be shooting under. You've said outdoors, but you've not said if you'll be shooting staged or posed portraits or trying to get spontaneous spur-of-the-moment expressions from non-posing subjects. The suitability of a manual focus lens is very different in these two circumstances. Also, size isn't just a matter of your arm strength, but also of the relation you have with your subjects. Do you want to impress with a large lens, or would it be preferable to project something more low-key and less intimidating? If you're doing a head or head-and-shoulders shot, IMHO you don't need F/1.4 to get decent bokeh - plenty of people shoot these types of portraits just fine with good F/2.8 zooms, or primes like the DA70 (and the FA77).

[blackcloudbrew]

i know that, but still it's confusing. looked samples many times. Samyang is better for portraits. Pentax looks for some portraits fine, but better for landscapes and smaller.
Next thing will be realize how easy is samyang to use at F1.4

---------- Post added 03-18-14 at 11:57 AM ----------



not getting confused
was DA 70 autofocus accurate in all distances ?

was it easy to use Vivitar 85 f1.4 at F1.4 and focus manually ?

It has been several years now since I used the DA70 and it can't remember any issues with the DA70 focusing, but that doesn't mean anything here. Don't know really.

Focusing the Vivitar 85 is a PIA. While it's got a nice buttery focus it takes a lot of practice to get it right. At f1.4 yikes, it's a beast. Here is a set on Flickr that I shot with it all last November. Single in November 2013 - a set on Flickr I will say that as the month went on, I adapted to using it better but I had a lot of throw away shots to get good ones.

Here is one of the best candid portraits I got last November with the Vivitar 85:



An old one with the DA70 on my K10d.



And a recent one I shot as a full on portrait with strobes and everything at my office with the DA*55

[Vejas]

It might also be worth thinking some more about which circumstances you'll be shooting under. You've said outdoors, but you've not said if you'll be shooting staged or posed portraits or trying to get spontaneous spur-of-the-moment expressions from non-posing subjects. The suitability of a manual focus lens is very different in these two circumstances. Also, size isn't just a matter of your arm strength, but also of the relation you have with your subjects. Do you want to impress with a large lens, or would it be preferable to project something more low-key and less intimidating? If you're doing a head or head-and-shoulders shot, IMHO you don't need F/1.4 to get decent bokeh - plenty of people shoot these types of portraits just fine with good F/2.8 zooms, or primes like the DA70 (and the FA77).

So whats the purpose of 85mm f1,4 ?

[MSL]

So whats the purpose of 85mm f1,4 ?

Because for any focal length, it will be easier to focus in low light with a brighter lens, for example, even if you shoot stopped down.

[Doundounba]

So whats the purpose of Manual Focus 85mm f1,4 ?

Note that I added "MF" to your quote. Now, my thoughts are low light (flash-forbidden) places/situations, or staged shots where getting very, very narrow DoF is an artistic objective and taking the time to focus properly (and/or re-shooting multiple times) is a possibility. For example (not a portrait example, but notheless), say you want a single label or word to stand out in what would otherwise be a busy shot... But if you're tempted by the fast glass - completely understandable - but worried about the MF experience at the Samyang's price point, maybe you can get a really inexpensive 135mm F/2.8 lens and practice nailing MF wide-open with that? Just another option to think about.

[Vejas]

Note that I added "MF" to your quote. Now, my thoughts are low light (flash-forbidden) places/situations, or staged shots where getting very, very narrow DoF is an artistic objective and taking the time to focus properly (and/or re-shooting multiple times) is a possibility. For example (not a portrait example, but notheless), say you want a single label or word to stand out in what would otherwise be a busy shot... But if you're tempted by the fast glass - completely understandable - but worried about the MF experience at the Samyang's price point, maybe you can get a really inexpensive 135mm F/2.8 lens and practice nailing MF wide-open with that? Just another option to think about.

Now i have jupiter 37a, this is 135mm f3,5. it's quite easy to take photos at f3,5. using catch in focus is easy. but i think there is great difference at f3,5 and f1,4

[Doundounba]

DoF @ 3 meters with 135mm @ F/3.5 = ~6cm
DoF @ 3 meters with 85mm @ F/1.4 = ~7cm
(reference)

Of course, you're shooting a much smaller surface area with a 135mm at the same distance. But as an experiment you can just set-up, say, two objects beside each other with one 4cm closer to you than the other, and try to get both in focus from 3m. Great, now un-focus the lens, go around the block running, come back to your 3m mark and try to nail focus as fast as you can (imagine this is a kind of "photo-biathlon", if you will). You can do it no sweat? Get the Samyang.

Or, more likely, you sound like you want the 1.4 lens. So just buy it, and if you don't like the experience, sell it. It's a well-rated, liked lens, and you won't loose much money, especially if you buy used.

[aurele]

And for indoor portrait, I just doubt Pentax's standard portrait lens DA*55 can do better than DA 50 as the former is very soft at 1.4.

We definitely don't have the same experience with the DA*55 : it's sharp @1.4 and after 2.8 it's almost too sharp (hence unflattering).

Back to the main subject. You should take in consideration the weight too : 510 gr for 1.4, 150gr for 2.4.

[MSL]

DoF @ 3 meters with 135mm @ F/3.5 = ~6cm DoF @ 3 meters with 85mm @ F/1.4 = ~7cm

Yes, but
DOF @ 4.7 m with 135 f3.5 is 17 cm (which is the right comparison in terms of filling the frame with the same fraction of the person)

[Doundounba]

Yes, but
DOF @ 4.7 m with 135 f3.5 is 17 cm (which is the right comparison in terms of filling the frame with the same fraction of the person)

Did you not read the part below (that starts with "Of course [...]")? I just suggested an experiment where you set-up similarly narrow DoF on a different type of subject/shot to see if you find it easy to nail manual focus quickly in a narrow DoF situation.

Anyhow, good luck to the OP with the quest.

[Shamwow]

To me, this is a no brainer. I think the DA 70m f/2.4 is one of the crown jewels of the Pentax lineup. I think it doesn't get it's recogntion due to being overshadowed by the FA 77.
The lens has no major faults, is sharp, renders nicely, and handles very well. I love the size and weight.

If you really need f/1,4, then go for the Samyang. If you don't, I would definitely go with the Pentax. For the focal length, f/2.4 is large enough to get an adequately shallow DOF.