[Bramela]

I recently acquired a Vivitar 105mm Macro lens, which is manual focus.
I also have a Pentax M135mm 3.5 lens, . These 2 lens are just brilliant lens to have in the bag as they give such sharp results.
PROBLEM? I am in over 60's bracket and my eyes certainly ain't what they used to be. I wear glasses all the time. I find that I am having some focussing problems with manual lens even if the beep is operational on the camera, as I dont feel that the signal give 100% accuracy and requires a little tweeking.
My results are not what I would expect from the lens.
Any suggestions from somebody out there with similar difficulties?
It is very frustrating to say the least.
e.g have a look at my last posting in the POTW thread, of this week.

Bruce,

Have you considered getting the O-ME53 Magnifying Eyecup or a Katz-eye split screen focusing screen for your camera?

I have the eyecup and am seriously considering the Katz-Eye for my K20D. I am 63 and I'm not nearly as steady as I used to be and my eyes do deceive me from time to time....

Ed

[Zewrak]

Get a split focusing screen, like the ones on the analog cameras and perhaps a magnifier

[Bramela]

Thanks for the quick reply guys.
I have been sonsidering the Katz-eye, but wasnt sure it would be the solution.
OK I will pursue that one, and I was not aware of the magnifyer. That sounds ideal and will look into that immediately (pun intended)

Thanks a lot , much appreciated.

[monochrome]

Bruce: I'm 53, but I have advanced glaucoma and little peripheral vision - tri-focals and the whole gig.

The Vivitar lens is my toughest lens to use since it is so sensitive, but when it is right, it is REALLY right.

I've done the following:

• I shoot full-manual so I don't have to rely on the viewfinder information
  • Sometimes I meter externally
• I set the diopter so the LED's are as sharp and I can make them.
  • That alone helped a lot.
• I got the O-ME53 Eyecup to view what I am focusing on in greater detail and it helped immensely.
  • I can look "through" the viewfinder to my image now
• I pretty much always use a tripod with manual lenses
• Next step, if necessary, is the KatzEye split screen, but I don't think it will be necessary

Sure, it limits what I can do with manual lenses, but I also have a small kit of FA's and DA's for the auto stuff.

Paul

[Bramela]

Thanks, Paul, I can see there is hope ffor me yet!
Appreciated greatly.... Bruce.

[jsherman999]

Also, one thing I was doing wrong in the early days of my MF/DSLR adventure - I was assuming the beep and appearance of the red rectangle meant focus had been reached, when it really just means that the focus target has been locked on - when you see the green hexagon appear (and stay,) that means the target is in focus.

Once I started watching for the green hexagon and not the beep/red rectangle, my MF-ing got a lot more accurate.

[TourDeForce]

Good tip Jay.

The first accessory for my K100 was an magnifier. It was on the camera before I took the first picture. I now have a split focusing screen and that has been the difference for me. Both are good mods that will help you enjoy the craft.

Best of luck all!

[Canada_Rockies]

You might consider using snap-in-focus with your manual lenses. When you have a manual focus lens mounted on a Pentax AF camera, digital or film, and you set the camera to AF.S, the exposure will be taken only when the camera detects correct focus.

I use this mode particularly with the M 100/4 macro I have. I can set the lens to an appropriate magnification, and chase the insect with the shutter button depressed all the way. The only drawback is that the only focus point that can be used is the center point.

[Bramela]

Must say, you people are a wealth of information. I thanks you all.
Will try the method you prescribe Arthur, sounds good/ and thanks too Jay will look into that focussingmore closely.
In the meantime, I have ordered the magnifier you mention, already, should be here in a couple of days.

Many thanks all, if ,after all this, I cant get it right, I think a good dose of Brandy before I start will be the only other resort !

[Bramela]

Posted a shot in POTW using Arthur's (Canada Rockies) method.
A great help. Not the greatest shot but its a big improvement.
Added a sample here :
Vivitar 105mm Macro/10kd

[Outlaw]

Interesting thread Bruce - I am 54 and finding similar issues. Lack of streadiness in the hands and reduced acuity in my "good" eye. Just posted a thread in the Accessories area asking abouth the best type of design for split focusing screens. Thought about some form of magnification too so your thread is timely and I now know - I am not alone. . .

This is a wonderful forum with so many helpful members. Thanks all.

[pentagor]

I'm using MF lenses a lot. I got O-ME53 Magnifying Eyecup and there is another trick I found: rotate the focusing ring to the smallest distance possible first and then try to focus from this point. As soon as the focus confirmation light goes on, the subject is in focus. This means focus from the front of the subject.
I don't know if anyone else discovered this, but it works for me.

[savcom]

rotate the focusing ring to the smallest distance possible first and then try to focus from this point. As soon as the focus confirmation light goes on, the subject is in focus. This means focus from the front of the subject.

I know it's an old thread, but... That's so simple and makes so much sense. Thanks.

[Lowell Goudge]

while this might seem like a smart response, please do not take it that way.

If you really are serious about shooting more and more with manual focus lenses, and perhaps manual aperture, look at picking up a used *istD with a split image.

the reason I suggest an *istD is that it has TTL flash and some time you will want to have flash metering with the old glass.

A split image speakes for itself.

When I upgraded to K7, I kept my K10D and put a split image into it. I used a jionfinance 45 degree diagonal split image because I liked the diagonal split image my Rikoh XR2-s film camera has.

It is a good idea to have a MF body, set up with all the advantages you can take, and there are a lot of good used cameras out there.

Otherwise, kust keep the K20 when you get the next urge to upgrade and put a split image into it.