Originally posted by TAP Not a bad idea. That would simplify the process of configuring the lighting setup. What size softboxes are you using, and what is your shooting distance? Do you use polarization as well?
Evenness of lighting isn't a huge concern at the moment, but it might be helpful in the implementation of the scanning rig I'm designing. Thanks.
I've looked into this method in the past, but never got around to acquiring the polarizer sheets for the flashes. How do you go about ensuring the lens polarizer is perpendicular to the flash polarizers? Is it more of a "trial and error" kind of thing?
I thought about suggesting cross polarization,
it's easy, you put the polarizing gels on your lights, both filters in the same direction (polarizers for lights are usually marked in a corner) then look through the one on your lens and rotate it until you have the effect you are looking for, perfectly crossed (90-degrees apart) is not necessarily the best, it's going to vary with your subject. Like using a polarizer for the sky, the effect is obvious, and you adjust it through the camera.
Most of my wife's work is colored pencil and water color, so I have not had to worry about reflections for a while.
For in front of the lights you want to look at something like these at
B&H you need to buy them at a size for your lights, if you are using hot lights, they will melt if you get them too close.
i've got a pair of soft boxes that I run 500W photo floods in, they have a front about 20-inches square on them. I've run them with and without the front diffusers, depending on the subject. I usually set them up about 8 to 10-feet from the art, and 45-degrees off the camera. Using a constant source, it's easy to see the coverage and the evenness of the light. I'm usually around 1/8 @ƒ/8
my "studio" is my garage, back the car out and the door becomes my easel, for the art. Usually just shooting art pieces on paper, that I can tack to the door. I've done works on canvas before, takes a bit more to support them.