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06-02-2008, 09:58 PM   #1
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Indoor event zoom: f/2.8 v.s. f/4?

Well, having owned the pancake trio for some time, I'm realizing I 'need' a better wide to normal zoom for indoor event shooting. Currently I have the lightweight FA J 18-35 4-5.6, find variable aperture a pain, and it hunts quite a bit in low light. The front element actually shakes when the focus hits either end of the throw! AF assist lamp from flash helps but not always desirable.


Sealing, noise etc aside, would the DA* 16-50 focus any faster due to it's brighter metering @ f/2.8? (Compared to the DA 16-45's f/4)? I don't necessarily need the speed for available light/DOF in this focal length, I just would like to find something that will lock focus a bit quicker.

The sharpness of the DA 16-45 sounds promising, as does the single cam design (compared to duo-cam of 16-50/sigma 17-70), the reverse zoom not so much so.

Any thoughts or experience? I'd rather save for a 31 ltd or DA*200, but needs take precedence over desire.

06-03-2008, 12:38 PM   #2
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f/2.8 will benefit you a lot more than a f/4 more indoors, especially without a flash. Have a look at the Sigma 18-50 and Tamron 17-50 as they are both f/2.8 throughout the zoom.
06-03-2008, 01:38 PM   #3
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Lately it seems everybody is in the same boat: kit lens replacement! Lots of thread about DA 16-45, DA* 16-50 and sigmas 2.8 EX and tamrons 17-70 as well..


Currently, my goal is to get a good lens for INDOOR clubbing/parties photography. For me, the original debate was basically this:


* Pentax or 3rd Party?
* Zoom x Aperture


Regarding the zoom x aperture debate, f/4 to f/2.8 it is only ONE stop difference... that could be solved with ISO or even the SR... so I am still not sure which way to go...
06-03-2008, 02:13 PM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by BBear Quote
Regarding the zoom x aperture debate, f/4 to f/2.8 it is only ONE stop difference... that could be solved with ISO or even the SR... so I am still not sure which way to go...
Replacing ISO over IQ is not always a good option. Also, 1 stop can make all the difference. Take a photo at f/2.8 at 100 ISO and for argument sake an image at f/4 at 400 ISO. Now just imagine f/2.8 at 400 ISO, it would allow a fast shutter speed and be able to capture motion and more light indoors far better.

06-03-2008, 02:41 PM   #5
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By any means, get a f/2.8 or faster lens. I find myself shooting indoor events more than I though, and my Sigma 24-60 f2.8 is just bright enough at ISO800 or even 1600. I often even grab my 1.4/50 because it's too dark, although a zoom of course is far more usable at this kind of occassions.

AF speed is still okay though far slower than at daylight.

The situation might get a bit better if you have ISO3200 or ISO6400 available, but anyhow you will be happy for every single stop you have in reserve

Don't underestimate one stop - it's half the shutter speed or half the ISO or twice the light ...

The Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 is getting really good reviews, by the way.
06-03-2008, 02:46 PM   #6
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I would agree with Nisyclip. You want the fastest lens possible.

Remember, while shake reduction lets you take pictures of stationary objects, only shutter speed freezes moving objects.

Fast lenses let you shoot higher shutter speeds, and even at ISO 1600 you may find yourself at the limit of freezing motion, depending upon lighting and the type of event.

BTW what type of events are you shooting?
06-06-2008, 02:07 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by Noisychip Quote
By any means, get a f/2.8 or faster lens. I find myself shooting indoor events more than I though, and my Sigma 24-60 f2.8 is just bright enough at ISO800 or even 1600. I often even grab my 1.4/50 because it's too dark, although a zoom of course is far more usable at this kind of occassions.
.
I echo what Noisychip said.

Here is a lot of images from Sigma 24-60mm which is a very extensive thread on that lens

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1036&message=27649564


Daniel
06-06-2008, 02:23 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by BBear Quote

Currently, my goal is to get a good lens for INDOOR clubbing/parties photography. For me, the original debate was basically this:
I've seen some really really good shots from clubs/parties done with trailing curtain sync.

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