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05-08-2015, 07:38 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by dcshooter Quote
Thanks for the compliments! In a former life (this was almost 12 years ago now), I did my Masters research with the NAtional Maritime Museum in Fremantle. I really enjoyed living in the Perth area and miss it quite a bit. Alas, I don't see myself getting back there any time soon.
Well, there you go, hey? It's a small world. I grew up down in Fremantle, lived there until I was about 21 and my parents are still down at Fremantle.
When I was in high school one of friend's father was involved with the Maritime Musuem...Tom Vosner...I remember him going off to Oman to do archeological studies on ship building techniques...interesting stuff I'm sure.

Glad you enjoyed your time in Perth...we usually rate pretty well on "Worlds most liveable cities" lists...really all about the weather I think

Cheers
Dean

---------- Post added 05-09-15 at 10:43 AM ----------

So, I had no luck with the other methods on the name ring...it was really tight!
I have resorted to the drilling method...two new holes on the name ring with a 1mm drill bit...probably could have used something a fraction smaller, but these worked well.
Using the lens wrench still required a decent amount of force to shift the ring, but got there in the end. Looks to be a little bit of sticky gunk (the scientific term) in the threads, which I'll clean up.

Now...the three screws under the name ring are also super tight, looks like they have been sealed/glued in some way. There is a hard, shiny material around the top of each screw...maybe original or maybe someone before me has been into the lens?

I haven't had any luck yet getting these screws out, proving to be quite a mission.
If anyone has any suggestions for how to tackle this next step, surely will be appreciated

Cheers
Dean

---------- Post added 05-09-15 at 11:13 AM ----------

I've just discovered I don't strictly speaking need to remove the three screws, just simpler to remove the lens element "cluster" if I do. I have been able to remove the cluster without removing the screws, so can now access the front element and give it a clean...getting there now!
Cheers
Dean

05-08-2015, 10:48 PM   #17
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A solvent I have seen recommended for use on lens bodies is shellite - a very light molecule hydrocarbon. It is very volatile - makes fingers feels colder than metho. Dries quickly without leaving its own residue. On my early 28/3.5 I used it to wash off the black paint over "Takumar" that some people used to do. The clear stuff on the screws might be varnish. That method of holding threaded elements was used in electronics construction.


On mine I had to open it because the piece that has the filter thread was loose - one of the three screws had fallen out and another was very loose. I stopped using it before anything fell off or fell out, so I still had all the bits.


I was getting pictures of a mummers band in Philadelphia doing a special performance at the time.
05-09-2015, 01:14 AM   #18
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There was no gunk sealing those three screws when I took my own SMC 28mm/3.5 apart for de-fungusing a couple of weeks ago. It was just a matter of undoing the three screws under the name ring to remove the filter ring, then three more screws to remove the entire front element cluster. In my case the mould was in the air gap in-between the front and rear groups of elements.

Glad to hear you've managed to get it disassembled. Now for the part that makes the hassle all worthwhile: putting it all back together again as good as new.
05-09-2015, 02:14 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by Dartmoor Dave Quote
There was no gunk sealing those three screws when I took my own SMC 28mm/3.5 apart for de-fungusing a couple of weeks ago. It was just a matter of undoing the three screws under the name ring to remove the filter ring, then three more screws to remove the entire front element cluster. In my case the mould was in the air gap in-between the front and rear groups of elements.

Glad to hear you've managed to get it disassembled. Now for the part that makes the hassle all worthwhile: putting it all back together again as good as new.


There should not be any gunk on the screws. But someone might have done the electronics industry trick because they worked loose once. Really annoying when people do that because the torque needed to loosen them is so much more which may result in damaging the screw head.

05-09-2015, 07:17 AM   #20
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I wouldn't call it gunk

Actually a lot of lenses, Takumars included, used a bit of sealant on the screw heads to help stop the filter ring, or the lens group from working loose.
The least exotic solvent you might use to get rid of the "gunk" is a small (very small) drop of lacquer thinner on the screw head. It usually does the trick.
The main problem for most repair beginners is having the right tools. Cheap screwdrivers (and that includes most of them out there, even the hardware stores' "precision screwdriver sets") are just not sharp enough to fit the screw head securely, and then are too soft and burr themselves and the screws.
I use German made screwdrivers. It makes a difference.
05-09-2015, 05:25 PM   #21
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Hi, i guess i came a bit later because you just had the name ring drilled.
But i wanted to suggest pentaxians to avoid the adhesivetape-cap method, because the glue may end up on the front lens coatings. Instead i suggest using a fine tweezer (i use enthomological ones and do ok).

Hope your 28mm takumar gets back to life!
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06-14-2019, 11:50 PM   #22
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Name ring came off with a WD40 can and double sided sticky tape

I have tried nearly all the methods mentioned here and what finally got the name ring off of a Takumar 105 2.4 was applying double sided carpenters tape to the bottom of a WD40 can rim and then using it to unscrew the name ring.
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