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05-11-2015, 09:34 AM   #1
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How to get better results w/Tamron SP AF70-200 f/2.8

Recently purchased a Tamron 70-200 2.8, mostly for photos for my 2 boy's soccer games. I was using a 18-135mm WR. Reason for going to the Tamron, longer range and larger apertures. I've used the Tamron 3 or 4 times now and I'm getting inconsistent pics. Some are amazingly sharp & some I completely miss. The majority, however, are somewhere in the middle. Mostly in focus, but not razor sharp. I'm using a monopod for the soccer games. I usually shoot in Av (aperture priority), with an ISO of 400 or higher and let the camera choose the shutter speed. I try to keep the shutter speed above 1/500. I've tried different apertures, from 2.8 up to 8. I mostly use spot focus & have tried both single & continuous.


I've also been practicing on my lunch hour, in the park shooting squirrels & baby geese, with very similar results. Some great, some terrible, but mostly so-so.


Any tips for getting more sharp photos & fewer so-so photos?

05-11-2015, 10:27 AM - 1 Like   #2
klh
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QuoteOriginally posted by ecruz Quote
Recently purchased a Tamron 70-200 2.8, mostly for photos for my 2 boy's soccer games. I was using a 18-135mm WR. Reason for going to the Tamron, longer range and larger apertures. I've used the Tamron 3 or 4 times now and I'm getting inconsistent pics. Some are amazingly sharp & some I completely miss. The majority, however, are somewhere in the middle. Mostly in focus, but not razor sharp. I'm using a monopod for the soccer games. I usually shoot in Av (aperture priority), with an ISO of 400 or higher and let the camera choose the shutter speed. I try to keep the shutter speed above 1/500. I've tried different apertures, from 2.8 up to 8. I mostly use spot focus & have tried both single & continuous.

I've also been practicing on my lunch hour, in the park shooting squirrels & baby geese, with very similar results. Some great, some terrible, but mostly so-so.

Any tips for getting more sharp photos & fewer so-so photos?
I have had the same lens for several years, and use it routinely for soccer and swimming. It's a great lens once you learn how to use it to its potential. You didn't mention which body you are using. I am using a K-3, and find it far superior to the K20D that I originally used with this lens, or even the K-5. Here is what I've learned.

First, be sure to use the hood. Also, take the time to calibrate your camera AF with the lens.

For soccer, I try to keep the shutter speed higher (usually 800 or above), which helps to eliminate motion blur. As for aperture, I almost never go below f/5.6 and try to use f/8 for action shots unless I must, because the depth of field gets too thin to focus accurately. I use TAv mode and let the ISO float as lighting changes.

A monopod is helpful (to prevent fatigue at least), but not needed if you get shutter speed around 800-1000.

I only use continuous focus, and usually select the focus points myself depending on how I expect to frame the shot. I use AF button focusing so I can choose when to change my focus points (and this helps when line refs or other players run across my view). I continually adjust the focus as I follow the action. With the bright f/2.8, I can clearly see when my shot is in focus through the viewfinder. I almost always prefocus on the player or players where I think the picture will be, then press the shutter (using high speed continuous shutter) when I'm ready to fire a burst of shots. For free and corner kicks, I focus on the ball on the ground while the player is getting ready.

Lastly, I try to position myself perpendicular to the line of action so the distance stays roughly constant. The Tamron isn't the fastest to focus, so it is pretty difficult to get a sharp photo when the action is moving directly towards or away from me. If I have to do that, I try to prefocus on a spot and shoot as the action approaches it.

Hope that helps a little.
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05-11-2015, 11:09 AM   #3
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Are there differences in shutter speed and/or ISO between the great and the so-so photos? Maybe post a few samples?
05-11-2015, 01:56 PM   #4
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KLH-
Thanks for all the info. I'll make a couple of changes and try again,


QuoteOriginally posted by Kozlok Quote
Are there differences in shutter speed and/or ISO between the great and the so-so photos? Maybe post a few samples?

I'll look at some of the shots and see if I notice a pattern.


BTW - I'm using a K3

05-11-2015, 03:42 PM   #5
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I'm a Sigma 70-200 f2.8 user but I'm taking notes (hopes nobody kicks me out of the thread)
05-12-2015, 04:37 AM - 1 Like   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by ecruz Quote
I usually shoot in Av (aperture priority), with an ISO of 400 or higher and let the camera choose the shutter speed.
For sports, use Tv or TAv modes, Ecruz ... choose a shutter speed of 1/1000 or higher.

Anticipate the key moments and take a burst of shots. Use AF.C where appropriate.
05-12-2015, 09:18 AM - 1 Like   #7
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Make sure what you are focusing on covers a good part of the screen. The focusing areas are larger than you think.
For soccer (especially when it's farther away), try using the field lines as a target, focus and recompose as needed.
I had the same sort of problem when I first got the Tammy and thought it was the lens.
Also, there are debates on whether to use SR on a monopod. Try turning it off if you are using it.

05-12-2015, 11:02 AM - 2 Likes   #8
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Since you're using a K-3, camera settings a bit more complex. I shoot outdoor sports with these settings:

TAv mode:
- Set aperture to f4 or f/5.6
- Shutter speed according to conditions. I find 1/1000s works most of the time. Never go below 1/500s. Don't be afraid to push ISO. Noise is correctable, motion blur is not
- AF-C focus mode, Hi-Speed continuous burst
- Expanded Area (S) focus point (Make sure you get this right, it is critical for tracking. Do not use the Auto AF point settings.)
- Turn SR off for panning.
Custom Menu Parameter Settings:
16. 1st frame action in AF-C - Focus priority
17. Action in AF-C Continuous - Focus Priority
18. Hold AF status - High (Make sure focus is locked on the target before shooting, or you'll have a string of misses)

I have all of the above entered in User1 mode, so I can switch from action to stills shooting just by rotating the mode dial.
05-12-2015, 12:29 PM   #9
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Wow! Lots of great info here. Thanks!


After a closer looks at the pictures, I am just missing the focus. The grass in front or behind will be in perfect focus, but my kid will be out of focus. I'll play around with some of the settings suggestions from this thread, and probably more importantly, practice, practice, practice.


A side note. In this age of cell phone cameras, I'm a little self conscious pulling out the DSLR & giant lens. But the nice, sharp, close up photos are definitely worth it.
05-12-2015, 01:12 PM - 1 Like   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by ecruz Quote


A side note. In this age of cell phone cameras, I'm a little self conscious pulling out the DSLR & giant lens. But the nice, sharp, close up photos are definitely worth it.
You shouldn't apologize for doing something properly, Ecruz! :-)
05-16-2015, 05:45 PM   #11
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I'm responding late, but here's my $0.02.

Check to see if the lens isn't decentered - I bought mine used off of CL a couple years ago when I was still living near Fresno, and while I could get acceptable shots with my K20D at Grizzlies games, taking some pictures of bison last week north of here showed that my new K3 didn't magically fix things. The bottom right of the frame is always blurrier, relative to the rest of the scene. Judicious cropping can fix it sometimes, but sometimes I want the right side of the frame...

Today I mailed it out to Tamron in NY to get fixed. Speaking of Tamron, I know decentering is a common complaint of the Tamron 17-50, which I also own, but my copy seems fine.

It's a good lens otherwise, but you do have to work around it's AF as others have mentioned. I get my best shots above 1/500 or so, and stepped down a bit. At 2.8 and 200 mm, it can sometimes really have trouble getting the right focus, and in a similar vein, it has issues when action suddenly moves towards you.
05-18-2015, 05:41 AM   #12
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Many more "keepers" after following the advice here. Still not perfect, but I will continue to tweak settings and practice.


While looking at some of the shots yesterday, my 15 year old said "how can your camera take such clear pictures from so far away?"


I really appreciate all of the help.
05-18-2015, 06:51 AM   #13
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As a user of long lenses, although for wildlife, I think the same applies

My experience is that many times the focus picks up grass in front or behind the animal. This is especially true if you are not using center focus only. Try to have the focus on the center of mass of your subject, and add depth by shooting at between F5.6 and F8. Use TAV mode as others have suggested and let the ISO go where it needs to be.
05-21-2015, 02:00 PM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
As a user of long lenses, although for wildlife, I think the same applies

Try to have the focus on the center of mass of your subject, and add depth by shooting at between F5.6 and F8.


I've tried the point focusing for a couple of games and am getting better results. Focus is mostly on the money, but when you miss, you miss big.


Again, thanks for all of the help. I love this forum!
05-21-2015, 03:01 PM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by ecruz Quote
I've tried the point focusing for a couple of games and am getting better results. Focus is mostly on the money, but when you miss, you miss big.
I agree with Lowell, use the center point, but I would recommend you use Center Point with "Expanded Area AF (S)" to enable the camera to track your subject.
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