[Na Horuk]

I think most DA lenses are best suited to auto-focus.

Yes, definitely. Many don't even have an aperture ring. They are part of the "digital" trend, where everything is electronic and gets chosen on the camera. And this leaves a lot of us wishing for lenses with aperture ring, generous focus throw, and so on. Short focus throw is good when you use AF, though, because it means AF is faster. The FA series probably has a longer focus throw than the DA series, but still not as long as A and older. But it would be interesting to see actual measurements.

A100mm/2.8 (Has a massive throw)

Yeah, pre-AF lenses have a precise, long focus throw. And macro lenses have an extra focus throw in the macro range. This is why I recommended A 50mm f1.4.

the 43mm. Is the 43mm suited to portraits or is 50mm the minimum?

Some say portraiture is minimum 55mm for the "face only" type of photos. But you can take portraits with 43mm, especially on APSC gear or if you are taking full body or environmental photos. Some use 35mm for this, so 43mm should be fine (The FA ltd is a special lens, has lots of character, so its a good choice for portraiture. But FA 77mm is probably even better for this purpose). You can check the user lens reviews section or the sample photo gallery. Still, I think an M or A 50mm f1.4 would fit your needs better. With A series you lose only AF. With M series you can use Av mode for wide open photos or M mode with green button metering. Oh, and with (most) manual primes you can use the function called Catch in Focus. This gives you something similar to AF.

[bdery]

The DA 40mm/2.8 has 3m as it's last focal point before jumping to infinity, I think this would be problematic when I need to manual focus in the dark. The 21mm has only 1.3m so it's hopeless too (requires lots of trial-and-error)

Use hyperfocal.

[trevorg]

Use hyperfocal.

According to the app on my phone, the hyperfocal setting for a 40mm on APSC at f2.8 is 28.32m, and at f8 it is 10m. I don't see how this would be achieved in the dark using a focus scale that only reads to 3m. Perhaps I am missing something though.

[pathdoc]

Perhaps I am missing something though.

Or perhaps your app is.

[bdery]

According to the app on my phone, the hyperfocal setting for a 40mm on APSC at f2.8 is 28.32m, and at f8 it is 10m. I don't see how this would be achieved in the dark using a focus scale that only reads to 3m. Perhaps I am missing something though.

Those numbers seem about right. I think focusing close enough should work, or focusing before the act when there is enough light would also do it.

[max_pyne]

Those numbers seem about right. I think focusing close enough should work, or focusing before the act when there is enough light would also do it.

or place a flash lamp or candle where you want to focus om to

[bdery]

or place a flash lamp or candle where you want to focus om to

That's actually a very, very, very clever idea! I've had trouble focusing in the dark some time ago, even with a flashlight in my hand the light levels were too low. Focusing on the light itself would have done the trick! Thanks!

[stevebrot]

Some lenses jump from 2m to infinity with little difference in angular displacement in the focus ring (such as the FA35), whereas others have more "resolution" before ramping up to infinity.

That is sort of a characteristic of most manual focus primes, particularly at shorter focal lengths. The only way around would be to go with a super long throw (180+ degrees) or flatten the focus heliciod at the far end relative to that at the near end (never seen it done). FWIW, the FA 35 has a focus throw similar to most manual focus lenses at the same focal length. You might want to consider too that at distance with only moderate magnification it is likely that neither your AF system nor the best manual focus aids will be able to take advantage of additional focus throw.


Steve

[stevebrot]

Yeah, pre-AF lenses have a precise, long focus throw.

I should introduce you to my collection of vintage 28mm lenses. The generalization that AF lenses tend to have shorter focus throws is correct, though not universally so. The Pentax F and FA series are a good example since both were marketed to both AF and manual focus users. Most vintage primes at 28mm and shorter tend to have rather short focus throws possibly as a reflection of the short travel of these lenses from MFD to infinity.


Steve

[yorik]

How long does it take to recover from blowing $750 on a 43mm?

You can currently get a new (silver) 43 ltd at B&H for $550.00...

... and you won't regret it, even if you pay $750.00 for it.

[fuent104]

That's actually a very, very, very clever idea! I've had trouble focusing in the dark some time ago, even with a flashlight in my hand the light levels were too low. Focusing on the light itself would have done the trick! Thanks!

I have a focusing chart on my phone, which I can pull up whenever I need to focus at a certain distance. I measure the distance with a measuring tape, then focus on the chart.

[formercanuck]

This is why I like my Sigma 28mm f/2.8 and Pentax M 50 f/1.4. Very long / smooth manual focus lenses.

Of course, if you're looking for a fast prime, there's a Sigma 35mm f/1.4
Budget version - Samyang 35mm f/1.4 ($315) - manual

[bdery]

This is why I like my Sigma 28mm f/2.8 and Pentax M 50 f/1.4. Very long / smooth manual focus lenses.

Of course, if you're looking for a fast prime, there's a Sigma 35mm f/1.4
Budget version - Samyang 35mm f/1.4 ($315) - manual

I have faster lenses but no fast 16mm lens (or wider).

[trevorg]

Here is a photo I messed up because of focus issues using the DA35mm/2.4:


As the waves crash the phytoplankton give off a blue light, quite beautiful to see. After the water has washed over the beach you can walk where the critters have deposited and each step sends out "shockwaves" of light.

It is very challenging to shoot the waves crashing as there is so little light. This means the aperture needs to be wide so you can keep the shutter speed down, otherwise it will be too creamy. You also need to get lucky with a wave coming at the right time, I used 15s exposure here to get one wave.

To get the focus right I got my mate to run out to where the waves crash, while the water was receded, and I take a photo with the flash on. Keep taking photos and adjusting the focus until it's sharp.

Here is an article and photos of the event: Southern Tasmanian beaches aglow with Sea Sparkle | The Mercury

I think when I went the plankton weren't as prolific as these shots. I expect they used full frame cameras with wide angle lenses and multi-exposures. In real life the phytoplankton never looked as good as these shots though, I suspect there's a lot of post-processing going on. Unfortunately I accidentally took all my shots in JPEG.

[Sandy Hancock]

The A50/1.2 has a nice long focus throw, and the extra light-gathering ability would be handy for this type of image. I also find the DA*55 easy to focus manually, and after a few weeks comparing the two head to head I have decided to keep it and sell my A50/1.2.

The DA35/2.8 limited certainly has a very long focus throw, but the vast majority of that is in the macro focus range - for this sort of landscape work that won't be helpful.