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07-12-2015, 04:49 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by fredralphfred Quote
Nowhere on their web site do they tell you if those screens fit cameras they currently manufacture.
It is obnoxious that they haven't updated their listings. The K-7 and K-5 screens fit the K-3 and, by proxy, the K-3 II. I moved my K-7 grid screen into my K-3 when I got it.

It seems safe to assume that the entry-level focusing screens should be interchangeable with the new bodies.

But yes, Ricoh should be updating their webstore to reflect that. I believe that some of the third-party resellers indicate in their listings that the screens fit new bodies.

07-12-2015, 09:53 PM   #17
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As the first step, you need to check front/back focusing by building a simple focusing set. Take a one foot wooden ruler and stick a needle (nail) on the middle. Place this ruler at ~30 degrees to horizon. Put your camera on tripod and position it at 5-8 ft from the needle. Set the focus on needle (nail) and take a shot. Now you can verify/correct focusing of your lens. Did you use a hood?

Cheers.
07-13-2015, 01:28 AM - 1 Like   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by jatrax Quote
The AF confirmation will confirm OK with anything within a range that roughly compares to a lens at f/4 or f/5.6.
Actually, on the K-3, the centre focus points are effectively f2.8, which is better than the stock focus screen can manage. In other words, using focus confirmation with one of the centre points selected makes sense on that camera.

Even with a properly shimmed replacement focus screen, such as the cut-down Canon Ee-S, focusing at f1.4 is largely a matter of skill (and luck).
07-14-2015, 06:42 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by fb_penpho Quote
As Jatrax said these are difficult lens to use. What I am writing you may well have done already but here goes. I use these 'awkward' lens to what I call calibrate the camera. I put the camera on tripod and look down on my dining table that has a steel measuring rule laid out. Then looking down at a bout 30deg I pick a easily found marking on the ruler 4-5 ft away. I then use live view to nail the focus point. Then using a pencil mark where the lens metal where the focus point is. I then use the dioptre to nail the focus again. Next comes the AF adjustment, making sure that I turn the focus from both directions. I adjust the AF point until the viewfinder either is the same as my pencil mark, or on equal sides of it depending upon what focus direction It is coming from. Then change to a slower lens and make sure that your settings make sense.
I started with this method too, the thing is, it is too difficult to be absolutely right with the angle. I'm a lot happier doing it with a reference tool (using a spyder lenscal myself, there are others)

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