Originally posted by UncleVanya I do - however this was intended as an observation of how the lens and hood performs on APSC.
I'm asking because my method of determining if a hood does fit a specific lens involves a film body. I carried this method over from my film days. For full format, put the lens + hood combo on the camera, set the shutter to B, open or detach the back and open the shutter (works best with a camera that allows you to lock the shutter open). Now by looking at the film window corners through the lens against a uniform bright background you can see if the hood obstructs the light path. You can do this from both sides. From the back trying to bring the extreme corner in line with the barrel edge you can see the corners turn dark if the hood is too long. Depending on the focal length and construction it may be easier to see from the front. If you can see through the extreme corners until your view is covered by the barrel edge you're fine. If the hood covers the outer part of the view it is too long. This also works for the edges with rectangular or tulip-shaped hoods.
To do the same for my APS-C camera, I fixed a 35 mm wide strip of black paper with a 16 by 24 mm window in the middle of the film window (that's why I was asking for a film body) and proceeded the same way.
In my early film days I was using my M 1.4/50mm with the plastic hood for the M 85 and 100mm lenses because I could not see any vignetting. By this method I found out that there was some vignetting up to f/4 while smaller apertures were no longer obstructed by the hood. While the vignetting in that case is rather insignificant, in theory at least there may also be some diffraction involved with an effect on resolution.
I'm now using the FA 1.4/50mm and on APS-C the longest of my several hoods that does not vignette is, again, the plastic hood for the M 85 and 100mm lenses. The metal hood for the Takumar 105mm is too long.