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10-22-2015, 10:51 AM - 1 Like   #1
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FA Limited background separation

I was recently out shooting and I took some shots with my 77mm. The one picture in particular that I am referring to was posted in a separate thread here on the forum.

I shot my picture at f5.6 but just based on rough guesses I am thinking f4 would provide a sharp image as well as good background blur.

I am not stating that as a definite answer but rather just a guess.

I am wondering for those of you who use the FA Limited lenses which apertures provide better in focus subjects and blurred backgrounds?

To keep it specific I am talking about all three of the amigos and I am specifically talking about taking pictures of people with each of the three.

Wide open you get more blur but you also might not get a fully sharp subject.

I understand that depth of field is a result of distance and aperture and how all that stuff is related...ie distance to the subject and the distance from the subject to the background...

I have been really impressed by some of the photos here on the forum. LeRolls is one I shall name as being awesome

More specifically though I want to have a more in depth discussion about sharp subjects and background separation specifically using the three amigos.

By all means put up examples and try to walk us through how you got the results.

Again, its about photographing people and using the three amigos. Hopefully y'all can gang up and teach me something. It can be about lenses, light, aperture, whatever...just how you got to point B.

10-22-2015, 11:24 AM   #2
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Looking at LeRolls pics I see f3.5 a lot. Sometimes 2.8.
10-22-2015, 12:12 PM   #3
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If you want the whole face/head in focus, f/4-5.6 is a good range. Opening up gives you a more blurred background, but more chance of leaving the nose or ears out of focus.
10-22-2015, 12:31 PM - 3 Likes   #4
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When I photograph my kids with the 3 Amigos I usually don't go beyond f/4.0. A lot depends on ambient light and just how soft I want other features to be. I also take into account how wobbly, bouncy, and excitable my kids are at the time of shooting. It's real easy for them to move out of focus when shooting up close with the FA 77mm at f/2.8. Here's a shot with the 77mm at f/1.8. I got lucky here and my son's left eye is generally in focus. He was a little tired after a long day so he was more still.


_IMG2970
by Boris, on Flickr

Wider apertures are easier with the 31mm because of the naturally larger depth of field. Subject isolation is a little tougher. Here's a shot at f/3.2.


_IMG3088
by Boris, on Flickr

I probably could have worked at f/2.8 and been just fine ... but I wanted to get a little extra sharpness for the eyelashes.

I use my 43mm on film more than on digital so the rendering is completely different. Here's one I took with my ZX-60 and a roll of Ektar 100. I think I was at f/4 or something like that.




Shooting at f/8 onward takes away the special rendering of the lens. You might as well get a regular FA/DA 50 or FA/DA 35 and be done with it. Been there. It's not interesting.

And yes, kids do vibrate like bees. They are never still unless they are asleep or about to fall asleep. Here's another 43mm shot. It was taken with my PZ-20 and the lens at f/1.9 on Fuji 1600 film.


IMGP7570
by Boris, on Flickr

10-22-2015, 04:35 PM   #5
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Quick on the camera/lens info for the 43mm shots being displayed on Flickr. I "camera-scan" my negatives with my K-3 and D-FA 50mm or 100mm macro lens. The images are processed in Capture One. So, disregard the camera/lens info when looking in my Film album.
10-22-2015, 04:54 PM   #6
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If you want more of a blur and the image to be sharp, use f4 and get closer to the subject.

Randy
10-22-2015, 04:59 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by slip Quote
If you want more of a blur and the image to be sharp, use f4 and get closer to the subject.

Randy
+1. Works on my FA77.

10-22-2015, 05:45 PM   #8
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I took this yesterday with the FA43 at f/2.0



Get the focus right and all the FA limiteds are plenty sharp from the get-go. How much much depth you choose depends on the subject, and the distance to the background.
10-22-2015, 06:34 PM - 1 Like   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by Sandy Hancock Quote
I took this yesterday with the FA43 at f/2.0


Get the focus right and all the FA limiteds are plenty sharp from the get-go. How much much depth you choose depends on the subject, and the distance to the background.
the subject plays a big parting this though, because as was stated earlier you may not catch a whole face in focus if thats what your after. the flower has a thin depth needed, but a kid or pet or something of the like is a toughie bc of movement and people in candids tend to be fluid not stationary. stopping down a little could mean the difference between a great shot still with maybe slightly less bokeh and background isolation or a deleted image. you definitely have to get a feel and practice with it. i bug the hell out of my dog and cats shooting them to get practice. they have the attention span of a 2 year old so when i do have a kid ill have it down including protecting the front element from stray limbs/noses/tongues. if you have light to work with this isn't a big deal, but keep mind of your shutter speed too. if you are shooting f4-5.6 inside you may need to bump iso a little to bump shutter speed to help freeze the subject. this might help isolate and keep them sharp as well.
10-23-2015, 01:20 PM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by Sandy Hancock Quote
I took this yesterday with the FA43 at f/2.0



Get the focus right and all the FA limiteds are plenty sharp from the get-go. How much much depth you choose depends on the subject, and the distance to the background.
This photo makes me realize I shouldn't have sold my FA 43.

Randy
10-23-2015, 02:04 PM   #11
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Do you have a smartphone? If so, get an app that calculate DOF and play around with it while shooting experimentally.

The iOS app I have is called "Photo Aide," and you can punch in what cameras you have and what lenses you have. It will perform various DOF and field/angle-of-view calculations based on what you're using. For example, if I tell it I have a K-3 II and an FA 77mm Limited, and I'm shooting at a distance of 3m at f/3.5, it tells me that subjects will be in focus from 2.91m to 3.1m. At that focal distance it will capture a rectangle of 90cm x 59.6cm. That kind of stuff. It can do some exposure calculations too, but I really only use it for the DOF/FOV stuff.

In that example above, I see with that DOF and FOV I can do a head shot and probably get both eyes in focus, even if the subject isn't square with the camera. But then I'd try it and see what comes out.

Do this a few times, repeat it, do it some more, and eventually it will start to sink into your subconscious. Play with the sliders and see how changing the distance or the f-stop changes the depth of focus.

That's my style of learning, at least. Get the numbers but back it up experientially.
10-23-2015, 02:59 PM   #12
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With the 43ltd I tend to use f2.8-4 for most of my people shots. You basically want the subject to be fully in focus and the background slightly blurred to give you that 3d pop. When a subject is partially in focus you get a different effect, and the transition is critical. The 31 and 77 are obviously masters of this too, while the 43 makes me want to stop down most of the time because the 3d effect is more awesome than the soft blurred look with this lens.
10-23-2015, 05:13 PM   #13
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Sorry guys. My laptop is dead so its off getting fixed. I had to log in on my phone to get here. Keep on posting up and hopefully I have a computer back within a day or two.
10-23-2015, 06:15 PM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by Sandy Hancock Quote
I took this yesterday with the FA43 at f/2.0



Get the focus right and all the FA limiteds are plenty sharp from the get-go. How much much depth you choose depends on the subject, and the distance to the background.
Perfect.
10-23-2015, 09:44 PM - 1 Like   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by alamo5000 Quote

I have been really impressed by some of the photos here on the forum. LeRolls is one I shall name as being awesome .
Thank you for the kind words. They are much appreciated!

QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
Looking at LeRolls pics I see f3.5 a lot. Sometimes 2.8.
For the most part my go to aperture settings for the 77 are between 2.8-3.5. I find that to be the sweet spot for me as far as an acceptable level of sharpness without sacrificing the creamy background blur. If the background is quite far away then I will sometimes go to f4 or if I'm going for a more soft dreamy look I'll go to 2-2.5. I've noticed that Thomas Ohlsson will occasionally shoot wide open with his 77 and manages to achieve very nice results.
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