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12-16-2015, 10:36 PM   #1
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50-135 mm lens performance

Hi
I bought a new lens 50-135mm lens and was trying to shoot photos indoor and it was slow compared to my 50 mm portrait lens. Is that normal?

12-16-2015, 10:59 PM   #2
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Yes, it is. There's a lot more glass with further to move in the 50-135, and the SDM motor is a little on the weedy side.

PS: welcome to Pentax Forums.
12-17-2015, 02:23 AM   #3
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So what option is there for indoor sports, where 70mm (70-200/2.8) is often too long already? So far, I've been most successful with an FA50/1.7 and cropping, but resolution really suffers in the far corners of the field.
12-17-2015, 02:46 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by JensE Quote
So what option is there for indoor sports, where 70mm (70-200/2.8) is often too long already? So far, I've been most successful with an FA50/1.7 and cropping, but resolution really suffers in the far corners of the field.
It depends upon what sport, how fast is the game and where you shoot. I often shoot volleyball. I can typically shoot from behind the 2nd referee or from behind the substitute bench. My preferred focal lengths are then 50mm to 90 mm. Importantly I use fast lenses (f1.8 or better f1.4). My preference goes to fast MF lenses (VL58mm f1.4, CZ85mm f1.4). I prefer MF primes because AF at high-shutter speed and moderate lighting is not also fast enough. (Zoom lenses are even worth.) In MF, I pre-focus the lens with distance and I shoot Hi-continuous shooting (8.3 fps with K-3).

Hope that the comment may help.


Last edited by hcc; 12-17-2015 at 03:15 AM.
12-17-2015, 08:22 AM   #5
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Yes it is a bit slower. Please don't be discouraged. Just remember, the 50-135 is a GEM but it isn't an L series focusing motor. Everything else about the lens is on par with L glass and in some ways, much better.

When compared to the 50 DA, the 50 is much faster in focus and in F-stop. But in my opinion, the 50-135 produces an overall better image.

You should find, the 50-135 sharpens up considerably at f5.6 - 6.3. In fact, in the studio I will do everything I can to shoot at f 5.6-8 because I love love love the results.

Once you get used to the lens and using it, you will find a certain love for it. Enjoy and keep shooting!
12-17-2015, 08:33 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by JensE Quote
So what option is there for indoor sports, where 70mm (70-200/2.8) is often too long already? So far, I've been most successful with an FA50/1.7 and cropping, but resolution really suffers in the far corners of the field.
Sigma 50-150mm 2.8 hsm
Faster focus, similar focal length
12-17-2015, 09:42 AM   #7
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the FA 135 2.8 is supposed to have really fast AF.
12-17-2015, 11:25 AM   #8
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Something that hasn't been said is, at what ISO are you shooting?


For indoor shooting, I would set the ISO no less then 800 to 1600 depending on what body you are using.

12-17-2015, 11:45 AM   #9
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I like to use speed lights, I keep my iso under 400 when possible on the K-5ii. Iso 100 or 200 is AWESOME! Lots of detail to work with.
12-17-2015, 05:21 PM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by Bxkrish Quote
Hi
I bought a new lens 50-135mm lens and was trying to shoot photos indoor and it was slow compared to my 50 mm portrait lens. Is that normal?
I know it's a new lens so you may not be inclined to do this, but if you deactivate the SDM so the lens becomes Screw Drive you may notice an improvement in AF speed. This seems to be the general consensus amongst those who have converted their 16-50 or 50-135 lenses due to SDM failure.
12-18-2015, 06:47 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by a5m Quote
I know it's a new lens so you may not be inclined to do this, but if you deactivate the SDM so the lens becomes Screw Drive you may notice an improvement in AF speed. This seems to be the general consensus amongst those who have converted their 16-50 or 50-135 lenses due to SDM failure.
I used this lens on an older film SLR where screw drive would be used only. I felt the SDM performed better. If I were to translate what others are saying, it would be that they feel the screw drive is a bit more confident/abrupt when moving where the SDM takes a very short pause before snapping into focus. There may be a VERY slight performance benefit for Screw Drive on this lens, but it isn't really Worth converting ,in my opinion, UNLESS your SDM dies. Then It is totally worth it so you don't have to pay the $250 to get it fixed.


Just my opinion.

Also... Used on a FF it does work... but... there is a heavy vignette.
12-18-2015, 08:49 AM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by Blacknight659 Quote
I used this lens on an older film SLR where screw drive would be used only. I felt the SDM performed better. If I were to translate what others are saying, it would be that they feel the screw drive is a bit more confident/abrupt when moving where the SDM takes a very short pause before snapping into focus. There may be a VERY slight performance benefit for Screw Drive on this lens, but it isn't really Worth converting ,in my opinion, UNLESS your SDM dies. Then It is totally worth it so you don't have to pay the $250 to get it fixed.


Just my opinion.

Also... Used on a FF it does work... but... there is a heavy vignette.
Wouldn't it matter which body the lens was being used on as a Screw Drive that would determine whether it'd be faster or slower? Like the K-3 or K-3 II for example have a stronger motor compared to a K-50 or older DSLR or film camera?
12-18-2015, 08:54 AM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by a5m Quote
Wouldn't it matter which body the lens was being used on as a Screw Drive that would determine whether it'd be faster or slower?
Yes.
QuoteOriginally posted by a5m Quote
Like the K-3 or K-3 II for example have a stronger motor compared to a K-50 or older DSLR or film camera?
You are correct.
12-18-2015, 09:10 AM   #14
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Thanks for the confirmation. So Bxkrish will have to decide whether it's worth it or not to convert the lens based on what body he's using it on.
12-19-2015, 08:31 AM   #15
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Thanks for the replies. I am using it on K-50 and ISO is set to 400.
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