Jupiter 9 (85/2) + close-up 'filter'

dsmithhfx · 01-13-2016, 12:03 PM

I'm interested in getting some close-up shots of minerals and other artifacts at a museum under low-light conditions (my other go-to lens is the 50/1.4 supertak, but I think I might need the extra length here). IIRC I might be looking at around 1/15-2.8 ballpark. Flash is generally out, since many of the objects are behind glass. Tripod: fuggedaboutit

Can anyone comment on the proposed combo in thread subject -- I'm looking at an asahi "No. 1" close up (which conveniently comes in 49mm), but if you've used others I'd like to see how it worked out. Example shots would be great, but general comments re: DOF, corner sharpness, vignetting &ct. would also be welcome.

Thanks!

**luftfluss** · 01-13-2016, 01:22 PM

If I can locate my Raynox DCR-150, I'll try it out with my J-9 and report back.

**Billy Joe** · 01-13-2016, 01:27 PM - **1 Like**

I have used the jupiter 9 with the raynox 250 --- it gets really close. It would also do well with the Raynox 150 I bet.

But you have to get pretty close with these 'adaptor macros' and your DOF is really thin... here is an example of that.

I think the 150 would be better... But a dedicated 90/100mm macro would be the best option... you can get a used MF macro for reasonable prices and I have seen the Tamron 90 and the Pentax WR100 going for reasonable prices

dsmithhfx · 01-13-2016, 02:29 PM

Well that's encouraging. Thanks!

Chetverovod · 01-13-2016, 02:30 PM

Jupiter-9 2/85 is good for portrate - it has resolution 30/18 lines per mm minimal focusing distance 80cm

Industar-61 L/Z 2.8/50 is more convinient for macro, it has minimal focusing distance 30cm and resolution 42/30 lines per mm

**Billy Joe** · 01-13-2016, 03:09 PM

Yes the industar 61 is close focusing lens (almost macro) not a bad lens at all if you can find one...

**WPRESTO** · 01-13-2016, 05:19 PM

V-A-V the Raynox close-up filters. These are achromatic, far better than single element close up filters. BUT, the front-element-to-subject distances are 8 inches and 4 inches, regardless of the lens to which they are attached. Is this sufficient working distance for specimens behind glass? Also, the Raynox clip-on mount only attaches to lenses down to 52mm filter thread, not 49mm. The Pentax No 1 is single-element and was designed for and works well on the 50mm f1.4 Takumar. I took many hundreds of B&W shots of fossils with this combo. I've experimented with it on a 200mm f4 Pentax and a Voigtlander 180mm APO and found the results unsatisfactory. Is the filter thread of the Jupiter also 49mm? I would suggest considering a Canon 250D mounted with appropriate step-down ring. It's front-surface-to-subject distance is 250mm which seems to me more useful for museum photography, especially because you could get closer using the focus ring of the lens. I believe the smallest filter size for the Canon close-up filters is 58mm. A used Nikon 4T (also achromatic but with a 52mm filter thread) with step-down ring would also work.

SUGGESTION FOR THIS TYPE OF PHOTOGRAPHY. Consider getting a large rubber lens hood that can be rested against the glass of a case to eliminate reflections from the room behind you.

**Billy Joe** · 01-13-2016, 05:41 PM

I have used my raynox on every 49mm thread lens I have.. you simply squeeze the clip and screw/force it on...

agreed about the rubber hood for the glass shooting... but any raynox is not going to get close enough to focus if there is a glass case... therefore I still think a dedicated macro is the way to go....

dsmithhfx · 01-13-2016, 06:16 PM

Originally posted by WPRESTO

V-A-V the Raynox close-up filters. These are achromatic, far better than single element close up filters. BUT, the front-element-to-subject distances are 8 inches and 4 inches, regardless of the lens to which they are attached. Is this sufficient working distance for specimens behind glass? Also, the Raynox clip-on mount only attaches to lenses down to 52mm filter thread, not 49mm. The Pentax No 1 is single-element and was designed for and works well on the 50mm f1.4 Takumar. I took many hundreds of B&W shots of fossils with this combo. I've experimented with it on a 200mm f4 Pentax and a Voigtlander 180mm APO and found the results unsatisfactory. Is the filter thread of the Jupiter also 49mm? I would suggest considering a Canon 250D mounted with appropriate step-down ring. It's front-surface-to-subject distance is 250mm which seems to me more useful for museum photography, especially because you could get closer using the focus ring of the lens. I believe the smallest filter size for the Canon close-up filters is 58mm. A used Nikon 4T (also achromatic but with a 52mm filter thread) with step-down ring would also work.

SUGGESTION FOR THIS TYPE OF PHOTOGRAPHY. Consider getting a large rubber lens hood that can be rested against the glass of a case to eliminate reflections from the room behind you.

WelI think I will go ahead and order the asahi no. 1 (which is just about the limit of my budget right now). The jupiter-9 does have 49mm filter thread, if the close-up doesn't work so great on it I can fall back to the tak. The rubber hood is a good idea and one I've used before. Thanks.

**WPRESTO** · 01-13-2016, 06:24 PM

Originally posted by dsmithhfx

WelI think I will go ahead and order the asahi no. 1 (which is just about the limit of my budget right now). The jupiter-9 does have 49mm filter thread, if the close-up doesn't work so great on it I can fall back to the tak. The rubber hood is a good idea and one I've used before. Thanks.

OK, but FYI: The Asahi No. 1 was intended to take the 50mm f1.4 from it's nearest focusing distance down to much closer. Consequently when attached to any lens regardless of FL, when that lens is focused to infinity, the front-of-filter-to-subject focus distance is about 18 inches. I think that should work for a large number of museum cases. And also BTW: the shortest-possible-filter-to-subject focus distance is unpredictable because it depends on the nearest focus distance of the lens.

dsmithhfx · 01-14-2016, 07:29 AM

Originally posted by WPRESTO

OK, but FYI: The Asahi No. 1 was intended to take the 50mm f1.4 from it's nearest focusing distance down to much closer. Consequently when attached to any lens regardless of FL, when that lens is focused to infinity, the front-of-filter-to-subject focus distance is about 18 inches. I think that should work for a large number of museum cases. And also BTW: the shortest-possible-filter-to-subject focus distance is unpredictable because it depends on the nearest focus distance of the lens.

Very good info, thanks! FYI I'm not looking for 'macro' shots per se (given highly unfavourable lighting, no tripod, and my own lack of interest in macrophotography as something I need to try), but I want to be able to frame in as close as possible; the 'naked' jupiter 9 MFD is ~31", which isn't going to do the job on smaller specimens. I've got a couple of close-focusing zooms which generally perform quite well, except they are too slow.

**Billy Joe** · 01-14-2016, 10:20 AM

Originally posted by dsmithhfx

Very good info, thanks! FYI I'm not looking for 'macro' shots per se (given highly unfavourable lighting, no tripod, and my own lack of interest in macrophotography as something I need to try), but I want to be able to frame in as close as possible; the 'naked' jupiter 9 MFD is ~31", which isn't going to do the job on smaller specimens. I've got a couple of close-focusing zooms which generally perform quite well, except they are too slow.

Many of the dedicated macro lenses are also really nice portrait lenses also just allowing close focus... But your jupiter 9 also is a portrait machine...

Chetverovod · 01-14-2016, 11:03 AM

Another way is to use Pentax Q with C-mount lenses for 16mm-cameras. For example Wollensak 50mm f1.4 TV lens.

dsmithhfx · 01-14-2016, 12:15 PM

Originally posted by Chetverovod

Another way is to use Pentax Q with C-mount lenses for 16mm-cameras. For example Wollensak 50mm f1.4 TV lens.

Is this something you've done?

Chetverovod · 01-14-2016, 12:25 PM

Originally posted by dsmithhfx

Is this something you've done?

I have no expirience with C-mount + Pentax Q. But you can find articles about them.

01-13-2016, 12:03 PM	#1
dsmithhfx Pentaxian Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Toronto Posts: 5,152	Jupiter 9 (85/2) + close-up 'filter' I'm interested in getting some close-up shots of minerals and other artifacts at a museum under low-light conditions (my other go-to lens is the 50/1.4 supertak, but I think I might need the extra length here). IIRC I might be looking at around 1/15-2.8 ballpark. Flash is generally out, since many of the objects are behind glass. Tripod: fuggedaboutit Can anyone comment on the proposed combo in thread subject -- I'm looking at an asahi "No. 1" close up (which conveniently comes in 49mm), but if you've used others I'd like to see how it worked out. Example shots would be great, but general comments re: DOF, corner sharpness, vignetting &ct. would also be welcome. Thanks!

01-13-2016, 01:27 PM - 1 Like	#3
Billy Joe Site Supporter Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 374	I have used the jupiter 9 with the raynox 250 --- it gets really close. It would also do well with the Raynox 150 I bet. But you have to get pretty close with these 'adaptor macros' and your DOF is really thin... here is an example of that. I think the 150 would be better... But a dedicated 90/100mm macro would be the best option... you can get a used MF macro for reasonable prices and I have seen the Tamron 90 and the Pentax WR100 going for reasonable prices Last edited by Billy Joe; 01-13-2016 at 01:53 PM.

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01-13-2016, 01:22 PM	#2
luftfluss Site Supporter Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: NJ Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 11,626	If I can locate my Raynox DCR-150, I'll try it out with my J-9 and report back.

01-13-2016, 02:29 PM	#4
dsmithhfx Pentaxian Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Toronto Posts: 5,152 Original Poster	Well that's encouraging. Thanks!

01-13-2016, 02:30 PM	#5
Chetverovod Pentaxian Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Nizhny Novgorod Photos: Gallery Posts: 768	Jupiter-9 2/85 is good for portrate - it has resolution 30/18 lines per mm minimal focusing distance 80cm Industar-61 L/Z 2.8/50 is more convinient for macro, it has minimal focusing distance 30cm and resolution 42/30 lines per mm

01-13-2016, 03:09 PM	#6
Billy Joe Site Supporter Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 374	Yes the industar 61 is close focusing lens (almost macro) not a bad lens at all if you can find one...

01-13-2016, 05:19 PM	#7
WPRESTO Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Massachusetts Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 59,137	V-A-V the Raynox close-up filters. These are achromatic, far better than single element close up filters. BUT, the front-element-to-subject distances are 8 inches and 4 inches, regardless of the lens to which they are attached. Is this sufficient working distance for specimens behind glass? Also, the Raynox clip-on mount only attaches to lenses down to 52mm filter thread, not 49mm. The Pentax No 1 is single-element and was designed for and works well on the 50mm f1.4 Takumar. I took many hundreds of B&W shots of fossils with this combo. I've experimented with it on a 200mm f4 Pentax and a Voigtlander 180mm APO and found the results unsatisfactory. Is the filter thread of the Jupiter also 49mm? I would suggest considering a Canon 250D mounted with appropriate step-down ring. It's front-surface-to-subject distance is 250mm which seems to me more useful for museum photography, especially because you could get closer using the focus ring of the lens. I believe the smallest filter size for the Canon close-up filters is 58mm. A used Nikon 4T (also achromatic but with a 52mm filter thread) with step-down ring would also work. SUGGESTION FOR THIS TYPE OF PHOTOGRAPHY. Consider getting a large rubber lens hood that can be rested against the glass of a case to eliminate reflections from the room behind you.

01-13-2016, 05:41 PM	#8
Billy Joe Site Supporter Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 374	I have used my raynox on every 49mm thread lens I have.. you simply squeeze the clip and screw/force it on... agreed about the rubber hood for the glass shooting... but any raynox is not going to get close enough to focus if there is a glass case... therefore I still think a dedicated macro is the way to go....

01-13-2016, 06:16 PM	#9
dsmithhfx Pentaxian Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Toronto Posts: 5,152 Original Poster	Originally posted by WPRESTO V-A-V the Raynox close-up filters. These are achromatic, far better than single element close up filters. BUT, the front-element-to-subject distances are 8 inches and 4 inches, regardless of the lens to which they are attached. Is this sufficient working distance for specimens behind glass? Also, the Raynox clip-on mount only attaches to lenses down to 52mm filter thread, not 49mm. The Pentax No 1 is single-element and was designed for and works well on the 50mm f1.4 Takumar. I took many hundreds of B&W shots of fossils with this combo. I've experimented with it on a 200mm f4 Pentax and a Voigtlander 180mm APO and found the results unsatisfactory. Is the filter thread of the Jupiter also 49mm? I would suggest considering a Canon 250D mounted with appropriate step-down ring. It's front-surface-to-subject distance is 250mm which seems to me more useful for museum photography, especially because you could get closer using the focus ring of the lens. I believe the smallest filter size for the Canon close-up filters is 58mm. A used Nikon 4T (also achromatic but with a 52mm filter thread) with step-down ring would also work. SUGGESTION FOR THIS TYPE OF PHOTOGRAPHY. Consider getting a large rubber lens hood that can be rested against the glass of a case to eliminate reflections from the room behind you. WelI think I will go ahead and order the asahi no. 1 (which is just about the limit of my budget right now). The jupiter-9 does have 49mm filter thread, if the close-up doesn't work so great on it I can fall back to the tak. The rubber hood is a good idea and one I've used before. Thanks.

01-13-2016, 06:24 PM	#10
WPRESTO Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Massachusetts Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 59,137	Originally posted by dsmithhfx WelI think I will go ahead and order the asahi no. 1 (which is just about the limit of my budget right now). The jupiter-9 does have 49mm filter thread, if the close-up doesn't work so great on it I can fall back to the tak. The rubber hood is a good idea and one I've used before. Thanks. OK, but FYI: The Asahi No. 1 was intended to take the 50mm f1.4 from it's nearest focusing distance down to much closer. Consequently when attached to any lens regardless of FL, when that lens is focused to infinity, the front-of-filter-to-subject focus distance is about 18 inches. I think that should work for a large number of museum cases. And also BTW: the shortest-possible-filter-to-subject focus distance is unpredictable because it depends on the nearest focus distance of the lens.

01-14-2016, 07:29 AM	#11
dsmithhfx Pentaxian Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Toronto Posts: 5,152 Original Poster	Originally posted by WPRESTO OK, but FYI: The Asahi No. 1 was intended to take the 50mm f1.4 from it's nearest focusing distance down to much closer. Consequently when attached to any lens regardless of FL, when that lens is focused to infinity, the front-of-filter-to-subject focus distance is about 18 inches. I think that should work for a large number of museum cases. And also BTW: the shortest-possible-filter-to-subject focus distance is unpredictable because it depends on the nearest focus distance of the lens. Very good info, thanks! FYI I'm not looking for 'macro' shots per se (given highly unfavourable lighting, no tripod, and my own lack of interest in macrophotography as something I need to try), but I want to be able to frame in as close as possible; the 'naked' jupiter 9 MFD is ~31", which isn't going to do the job on smaller specimens. I've got a couple of close-focusing zooms which generally perform quite well, except they are too slow.

01-14-2016, 10:20 AM	#12
Billy Joe Site Supporter Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 374	Originally posted by dsmithhfx Very good info, thanks! FYI I'm not looking for 'macro' shots per se (given highly unfavourable lighting, no tripod, and my own lack of interest in macrophotography as something I need to try), but I want to be able to frame in as close as possible; the 'naked' jupiter 9 MFD is ~31", which isn't going to do the job on smaller specimens. I've got a couple of close-focusing zooms which generally perform quite well, except they are too slow. Many of the dedicated macro lenses are also really nice portrait lenses also just allowing close focus... But your jupiter 9 also is a portrait machine...

01-14-2016, 11:03 AM	#13
Chetverovod Pentaxian Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Nizhny Novgorod Photos: Gallery Posts: 768	Another way is to use Pentax Q with C-mount lenses for 16mm-cameras. For example Wollensak 50mm f1.4 TV lens.

01-14-2016, 12:15 PM	#14
dsmithhfx Pentaxian Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Toronto Posts: 5,152 Original Poster	Originally posted by Chetverovod Another way is to use Pentax Q with C-mount lenses for 16mm-cameras. For example Wollensak 50mm f1.4 TV lens. Is this something you've done?

01-14-2016, 12:25 PM	#15
Chetverovod Pentaxian Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Nizhny Novgorod Photos: Gallery Posts: 768	Originally posted by dsmithhfx Is this something you've done? I have no expirience with C-mount + Pentax Q. But you can find articles about them.