[Stardog]

I will be taking my Kx camera with me on vacation to Europe next month and will be shooting a lot of pics inside museums, cathedrals, etc., where flash and tripods are not permitted. To get the best shots in these situations, what are my best options? Obviously I can increase the ISO a bit to get more light, but that seems more like a band-aid approach. Would getting a fast prime lens, e.g. 1.4 or 1.8, be the best solution to getting the sharpest images possible? I know it will be an added investment to make, but if this is the most common approach used by professionals (which I certainly am not) then it is something I am willing to consider. Or is there a simpler, more economical approach I can take in the interim. I just want to make sure my photos come out good as this is a once in a lifetime opportunity to visit many great sites. Don't want my picture taking to be for naught. Thanks.

[Adam]

When you can't use a tripod, a fast prime, good high-ISO performance, and good hand-holding technique will all help.

There are two fairly fast lenses available for under $100:

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/94-pentax-price-watch/313988-da-35mm-just-99-57-a.html
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/94-pentax-price-watch/313127-da-50mm-89-89-a.html

If you don't need AF, there are many great options from Samyang, like the 16mm F2, 24mm F1.4, 50mm F1.4 and 85mm F1.4:
Samyang Lenses for Pentax: Prime Lenses - Pentax Lens Review Database

You could of course upgrade the body to something like the K-S2 (or even the K-S1) to get better resolution and lower noise. These bodies are currently around $450/300.

Finally, always shoot in RAW for the best results. Having a good noise reduction program (i.e. Topaz or Nik) can help clean up noise in post. If the noise still looks bad, or if there isn't enough detail in the final product, you can actually shoot the same scene multiple times and stack the photos to reduce noise. This technique is time-consuming but very effective if the photos can be aligned.

[lytrytyr]

ISO 800 is fine on the K-x.

For interiors, you'll want to go wide.
Generally speaking, wide lenses aren't that fast,
but if you don't mind the weight,
something like a Samyang 16mm f/2 (Bower, Rokinon, or however it's branded)
would be a relatively cheap solution.

Technique-wise, you can go down to as low as 1/15 second,
if you control your breathing and avoid too many European espressos,
but you can also help by resting your hands
on the back of a church pew or similar support.

For museum artefacts, a fast 50mm would be good,
even a macro, like the D-FA 50 which is really cheap right now.

Enjoy your trip!

[Stardog]

Thanks so much for the prompt and helpful replies from both of you. If I can find a fast lens for under a hundred bucks before I leave I may go that route, just to have the option available and to gain experience using it. I bought my Kx back in 2006 and its been a pretty reliable camera, although lacking in some features I wish I had. But it was also affordable. This may be the year to upgrade to a more full-featured Pentax. I haven't checked the Pentax market recently, but any advice on a Pentax that would be a step or two above the Kx in features, without breaking the bank? I will also look at the specs on the KS-1 and 2 as suggested. Thanks again!

[Wingincamera]

A monopod might be allowed. If not, there is the poor man's monopod: tie one end of a string to a washer or bolt and the other end to a 1/4 bolt that will screw into your camera tripod socket. Stand on the loose end with the washer and pull the camera up to take out the slack & apply tension. Have the string adjusted so that when you pull it tight it's at eye level. Try it before you leave, can't get much cheaper.

[ChristianRock]

The DA 35 2.4, to me, is fast enough for museums, since you'll be taking pictures of static objects. My experience is that shooting that lens at 1/8s with proper technique and SR gives me keepers pretty much every time, and a lot of times I didn't even have to go with the shutter at that slow speed, with ISO set to 640 on my K20D and Av. I set it to f/2.8 where mine is tack sharp. Most of the time I'd end up shooting at 1/15s or 1/20s which was more than enough speed for steady shots.

I always had a 50 1.7 on me but 50 is too long for museums. When outside the 50 would be used quite a bit.

[rgknief60]

An individual who spoke at our yearly seminar for Camera Club says he packs a spare ballhead for places like this.
One can hold the ballhead (with camera attached) against a flat surface for stability, and have a very good support.
One must take care that the bottom surface of the ballhead is padded so no surfaces are dented or scratched. A
piece of thin adhesive backed rubber sheet or equivalent will add grip and protection.

When going to a museum, be sure to take your polarizing filter. It may help to cut down on reflections from glass display
cases or highly reflective objects, and possibly remove those reflections in some cases. Take into account the possible
loss of light caused by the polarizing filter when choosing the lens. I sure wish I'd had one when I took pictures at a
museum in Amsterdam.