Originally posted by bertwert There are five Pentax 100/2.8 Macro lenses that offer 1:1 magnification:
A 100/2.8 Macro F 100/2.8 Macro FA 100/2.8 Macro DFA 100/2.8 Macro DFA 100/2.8 Macro WR
Main differences:
All of the lenses but the A lens have screwdrive AF
The two DFA lenses have quickshift
All of the lenses but the DFA WR lens have an Aperture ring
The F and FA lenses have focus limiters
The DFA non-WR has a focus clamp
The A, F and FA lenses have a 58mm filter size, the two DFA lenses have a 49mm filter size
The DFA WR lens is weather resistant
Hope this helps!
Hi bertwert,
This definitely helps!
Some of the terms I am not fully familiar with - but there are explanations later in the thread.
Is the lack of an aperture ring on the WR an issue? One just needs to set the aperture on the camera, right?
My understanding is that the macro should have either a focus limiter or quickshift - this may be user preference (I am not sure which I would prefer)
What is a focus clamp - is that beneficial?
What is the relevance of the filter size? Is one of the 2 sizes preferable?
Do you have thoughts on the newest iteration (WR) for $370 vs the FA version on CL for $220?
Thanks for your time and advice!
Sincerely,
Brian
---------- Post added 02-23-16 at 11:14 PM ----------
Originally posted by kiwi_jono As everyone else says but I would like to add that the focus limiter (F / FA) is nice to have as reduces focus throw / improves focussing speed.
Hi kiwi_jono,
Do you prefer a focus limiter to the quickshift that other lenses (including the newer 100mm macros) have?
I am not familiar with using either function.
Thanks for your input,
radman
---------- Post added 02-23-16 at 11:16 PM ----------
Originally posted by Dr_who The WR also has rounded aperture blades. I'm not sure if any of the other ones do, I could be wrong.
Hi Dr_who,
Is there an advantage to having the aperture blades rounded?
What other varieties of blades are there?
I appreciate your advice,
radman
---------- Post added 02-23-16 at 11:22 PM ----------
Originally posted by TER-OR I use an FA100 f2.8 in the field chasing insects. I also use autofocus, but can quickly drop to manual if the camera gets confused. I've tried manual full-time and I'm not as fast as the camera. The focus limiter is convenient if all your shots are within that range, but you better get good at switching it off when not needed. Out in the field I can't predict what I'll see so I have to be able to switch zones pretty quickly. All that said, it speeds up close work.
Beyond the obvious I don't think there's much of a difference between the FA and DFA lenses. The 100mm series is really great for insect work.
Hi TER-OR,
Thanks for the info. So the focus limiter would be employed if one is shooting all macro or shooting all distance shots. But the limiter would not be used if one is shooting macros and distance mixed in with one another, right?
As an owner of the FA version of the 100mm macro - please answer this:
Which would you recommend purchasing --
Brand new 100mm WR for $370 with warranty
or
Craigslist FA 100 mm for $220.
Thanks!!!
---------- Post added 02-23-16 at 11:28 PM ----------
Originally posted by BrianR With the focus limiter engaged, the camera will only look for subjects from something like 0.6m to infinity.. 'normal distances'. This keeps it from missing focus and spinning all the way down to the minimum focus distance - a macro lens will have a loooong focus throw from 0.6m down to it's minimum distance and it's painful if it goes hunting down this range when you know your subject is 4 ft away.
Neither DFA has a limiter, but they do have quick shift focus which lets you override the AF easily if it goes for a run. I will say that the AF of my DFA100mm improved a thousandfold when I went from a k100d to a k5iis...enough that it rarely goes hunting at normal distances and I sometimes use AF down to about to 0.5x magnification, any higher and I definitely prefer MF. I'm not sure if I'd prefer a limiter to quickshift...quickshift is very useful when used with back button AF as it lets you seamlessly move from AF to MF.
I do not have the WR version of the DFA100mm, but my lens has survived numerous fights with mud or goop. I would have taken WR if I had the choice, but the lack doesn't hold me back. Note that this non-WR version also has an aperture ring, a bonus if you plan to use it on cheap extension tubes or an older film camera. It also does not have rounded aperture blades, something I would also have taken if I had the choice at the time (for out of focus highlights, especially sun on water around frogs and such).
I've only owned the one, but from looking at samples I don't think there's much to choice from an optical standpoint - all are excellent and probably more capable than I will ever be
I just want to amend this - if you want the maximum magnification, then this is definitely what you do. Otherwise the standard macro MF method is to turn the focus ring to the magnification you want and then move the camera in and out to find focus (or move your subject
). We don't always want minimum magnification:P.
Hi BrianR,
So if the WR version of the lens is placed on extension tubes - the aperture cannot be controlled, because there is no ring? If I got that correct, that seems like a deficiency, right?
Would the extension tubes increase the macro?
Do aperture blades that are rounded result in better bokeh?
I appreciate your time and advice,
radman