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02-23-2016, 10:15 AM   #1
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100 mm macro lens comparison

Hi All,


Please tell me if you have any thoughts on these 2 lenses...especially if you have them both or have used both of them.
They are both rated very well on this forum (9.6 and 9.55), but I would like to hear from some of you experts (AKA anyone with more experience than me - which is pretty much anyone reading this) about the advantages and disadvantages of each lens.


SMC Pentax-D FA 100mm F2.8 Macro WR
vs
SMC Pentax-FA 100mm F2.8 Macro


Even an amateur like me can come up with a couple - so I will start this off:
1. The newer lens has WR (but please tell me if that gets tested much when you are shooting macro - I have never done macro shooting)
2. The older lens is heavy and non-WR
3. The newer lens does not have a focus limiter (is that right? - what is a focus limiter?) - does the older one have a limiter?


I truly appreciate your time and advice,


Thanks!!!
radman

02-23-2016, 10:36 AM - 2 Likes   #2
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There are five Pentax 100/2.8 Macro lenses that offer 1:1 magnification:
A 100/2.8 Macro
F 100/2.8 Macro
FA 100/2.8 Macro
DFA 100/2.8 Macro
DFA 100/2.8 Macro WR

Main differences:
All of the lenses but the A lens have screwdrive AF
The two DFA lenses have quickshift
All of the lenses but the DFA WR lens have an Aperture ring
The F and FA lenses have focus limiters
The DFA non-WR has a focus clamp
The A, F and FA lenses have a 58mm filter size, the two DFA lenses have a 49mm filter size
The DFA WR lens is weather resistant

Hope this helps!
02-23-2016, 11:03 AM - 1 Like   #3
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To add to Bertwert, you can't go wrong with any of them IQ wise. It comes down to whether you want AF or not or need WR. The DFA WR has the feel of the LTD lenses.
02-23-2016, 11:25 AM - 1 Like   #4
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Good posts above. Optically they are all stellar. DFA WR might have latest lens coatings, but it doesn't make a huge difference in this type of lens.
AF is not for macro range anyway, you should only use AF for regular photography. For macro, you switch to MF and twist focus ring all the way to minimum, as that is where you get max magnification.
Another consideration is the aperture ring. If you are planning on using the lens on older film cameras or bellows (for extreme macro, enlargement), then you might want a lens with aperture ring.

Anyway, I would recommend getting a brand new DFA, as it comes with warranty, is brand new, looks nice, is WR, has QS, and has a very fair price. But if you can get any of the others for a good price, go for it. This heavily depends on where you live and what is available locally. None of these lenses will disappoint you.

02-23-2016, 11:43 AM - 1 Like   #5
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As everyone else says but I would like to add that the focus limiter (F / FA) is nice to have as reduces focus throw / improves focussing speed.
02-23-2016, 11:52 AM - 1 Like   #6
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I use an FA100 f2.8 in the field chasing insects. I also use autofocus, but can quickly drop to manual if the camera gets confused. I've tried manual full-time and I'm not as fast as the camera. The focus limiter is convenient if all your shots are within that range, but you better get good at switching it off when not needed. Out in the field I can't predict what I'll see so I have to be able to switch zones pretty quickly. All that said, it speeds up close work.

Beyond the obvious I don't think there's much of a difference between the FA and DFA lenses. The 100mm series is really great for insect work.
02-23-2016, 12:23 PM - 1 Like   #7
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The WR also has rounded aperture blades. I'm not sure if any of the other ones do, I could be wrong.

02-23-2016, 12:30 PM - 1 Like   #8
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The key message from all is that you cannot go wrong with either the SMC Pentax-D FA 100mm F2.8 Macro WR or SMC Pentax-FA 100mm F2.8 Macro.

Worthy alternatives include the Tamron 90mm and Sigma 105mm. Again you will not be disappointed by any IMHO. All these 4 lenses are well-regarded, FF and well-liked (with their respective group of supporters).

Simply there is a great choice of outstanding 90-100mm macro lens for Pentax mount: enjoy....
02-23-2016, 12:32 PM - 1 Like   #9
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With the focus limiter engaged, the camera will only look for subjects from something like 0.6m to infinity.. 'normal distances'. This keeps it from missing focus and spinning all the way down to the minimum focus distance - a macro lens will have a loooong focus throw from 0.6m down to it's minimum distance and it's painful if it goes hunting down this range when you know your subject is 4 ft away.

Neither DFA has a limiter, but they do have quick shift focus which lets you override the AF easily if it goes for a run. I will say that the AF of my DFA100mm improved a thousandfold when I went from a k100d to a k5iis...enough that it rarely goes hunting at normal distances and I sometimes use AF down to about to 0.5x magnification, any higher and I definitely prefer MF. I'm not sure if I'd prefer a limiter to quickshift...quickshift is very useful when used with back button AF as it lets you seamlessly move from AF to MF.

I do not have the WR version of the DFA100mm, but my lens has survived numerous fights with mud or goop. I would have taken WR if I had the choice, but the lack doesn't hold me back. Note that this non-WR version also has an aperture ring, a bonus if you plan to use it on cheap extension tubes or an older film camera. It also does not have rounded aperture blades, something I would also have taken if I had the choice at the time (for out of focus highlights, especially sun on water around frogs and such).

I've only owned the one, but from looking at samples I don't think there's much to choice from an optical standpoint - all are excellent and probably more capable than I will ever be

QuoteOriginally posted by Na Horuk Quote
For macro, you switch to MF and twist focus ring all the way to minimum, as that is where you get max magnification.
I just want to amend this - if you want the maximum magnification, then this is definitely what you do. Otherwise the standard macro MF method is to turn the focus ring to the magnification you want and then move the camera in and out to find focus (or move your subject). We don't always want minimum magnification:P.
02-23-2016, 12:47 PM   #10
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I have a FA-100mm f:2.8, with no personal experience with any of the others mentioned.... so I have nothing to compare it to, but I LOVE my FA!
02-23-2016, 01:01 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by Dewman Quote
I have a FA-100mm f:2.8, with no personal experience with any of the others mentioned.... so I have nothing to compare it to, but I LOVE my FA!
Yep, same here ! Build like a tank!

A bit heavy and some purple fringing wide open but easily one of my best lenses. Has an aperture ring and there´s no hood to deal with in a hurry (or need for one..).
02-23-2016, 01:14 PM - 1 Like   #12
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I also only have the FA 100 macro lens so cannot compare directly with the new version. However I do recall reading on these forums that one gentleman who did in fact have both the FA version and DFA version preferred the older FA lens because he liked the way the overall colors and image rendering looked better. I paid $225 for my lens, but with prices plummeting on the New 100 macro lens, I would not have any reservations at all purchasing it.

Many of my best keepers were taken with this macro lens. It's that good.
02-23-2016, 01:37 PM - 1 Like   #13
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With the current price of the DFA 100 WR, I would have a hard time passing it up.

$370.86 shipped is incredible compared to ~ 3 years ago.

Pentax smc Pentax-D FA 100mm f/2.8 WR Macro Lens 21910 B&H Photo
02-23-2016, 09:12 PM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by bertwert Quote
There are five Pentax 100/2.8 Macro lenses that offer 1:1 magnification:
A 100/2.8 Macro
F 100/2.8 Macro
FA 100/2.8 Macro
DFA 100/2.8 Macro
DFA 100/2.8 Macro WR

Main differences:
All of the lenses but the A lens have screwdrive AF
The two DFA lenses have quickshift
All of the lenses but the DFA WR lens have an Aperture ring
The F and FA lenses have focus limiters
The DFA non-WR has a focus clamp
The A, F and FA lenses have a 58mm filter size, the two DFA lenses have a 49mm filter size
The DFA WR lens is weather resistant

Hope this helps!

Hi bertwert,

This definitely helps!

Some of the terms I am not fully familiar with - but there are explanations later in the thread.

Is the lack of an aperture ring on the WR an issue? One just needs to set the aperture on the camera, right?
My understanding is that the macro should have either a focus limiter or quickshift - this may be user preference (I am not sure which I would prefer)
What is a focus clamp - is that beneficial?
What is the relevance of the filter size? Is one of the 2 sizes preferable?
Do you have thoughts on the newest iteration (WR) for $370 vs the FA version on CL for $220?

Thanks for your time and advice!

Sincerely,

Brian

---------- Post added 02-23-16 at 11:14 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by kiwi_jono Quote
As everyone else says but I would like to add that the focus limiter (F / FA) is nice to have as reduces focus throw / improves focussing speed.
Hi kiwi_jono,

Do you prefer a focus limiter to the quickshift that other lenses (including the newer 100mm macros) have?
I am not familiar with using either function.

Thanks for your input,

radman

---------- Post added 02-23-16 at 11:16 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Dr_who Quote
The WR also has rounded aperture blades. I'm not sure if any of the other ones do, I could be wrong.
Hi Dr_who,

Is there an advantage to having the aperture blades rounded?
What other varieties of blades are there?

I appreciate your advice,

radman

---------- Post added 02-23-16 at 11:22 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by TER-OR Quote
I use an FA100 f2.8 in the field chasing insects. I also use autofocus, but can quickly drop to manual if the camera gets confused. I've tried manual full-time and I'm not as fast as the camera. The focus limiter is convenient if all your shots are within that range, but you better get good at switching it off when not needed. Out in the field I can't predict what I'll see so I have to be able to switch zones pretty quickly. All that said, it speeds up close work.

Beyond the obvious I don't think there's much of a difference between the FA and DFA lenses. The 100mm series is really great for insect work.
Hi TER-OR,

Thanks for the info. So the focus limiter would be employed if one is shooting all macro or shooting all distance shots. But the limiter would not be used if one is shooting macros and distance mixed in with one another, right?

As an owner of the FA version of the 100mm macro - please answer this:

Which would you recommend purchasing --
Brand new 100mm WR for $370 with warranty
or
Craigslist FA 100 mm for $220.

Thanks!!!

---------- Post added 02-23-16 at 11:28 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by BrianR Quote
With the focus limiter engaged, the camera will only look for subjects from something like 0.6m to infinity.. 'normal distances'. This keeps it from missing focus and spinning all the way down to the minimum focus distance - a macro lens will have a loooong focus throw from 0.6m down to it's minimum distance and it's painful if it goes hunting down this range when you know your subject is 4 ft away.

Neither DFA has a limiter, but they do have quick shift focus which lets you override the AF easily if it goes for a run. I will say that the AF of my DFA100mm improved a thousandfold when I went from a k100d to a k5iis...enough that it rarely goes hunting at normal distances and I sometimes use AF down to about to 0.5x magnification, any higher and I definitely prefer MF. I'm not sure if I'd prefer a limiter to quickshift...quickshift is very useful when used with back button AF as it lets you seamlessly move from AF to MF.

I do not have the WR version of the DFA100mm, but my lens has survived numerous fights with mud or goop. I would have taken WR if I had the choice, but the lack doesn't hold me back. Note that this non-WR version also has an aperture ring, a bonus if you plan to use it on cheap extension tubes or an older film camera. It also does not have rounded aperture blades, something I would also have taken if I had the choice at the time (for out of focus highlights, especially sun on water around frogs and such).

I've only owned the one, but from looking at samples I don't think there's much to choice from an optical standpoint - all are excellent and probably more capable than I will ever be



I just want to amend this - if you want the maximum magnification, then this is definitely what you do. Otherwise the standard macro MF method is to turn the focus ring to the magnification you want and then move the camera in and out to find focus (or move your subject). We don't always want minimum magnification:P.

Hi BrianR,

So if the WR version of the lens is placed on extension tubes - the aperture cannot be controlled, because there is no ring? If I got that correct, that seems like a deficiency, right?
Would the extension tubes increase the macro?
Do aperture blades that are rounded result in better bokeh?

I appreciate your time and advice,

radman
02-23-2016, 09:39 PM - 1 Like   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by radman Quote
Do you prefer a focus limiter to the quickshift that other lenses (including the newer 100mm macros) have?
Focus limiters are a practical solution to helping a lens focus quickly, quick shift is fine with shorter focal lengths but with longer focal lengths (over 70mm) focus limiters are a better choice. This is due to the fact that macro lenses almost without exception have longer focus throws than standard lenses do.


Pentax K10D - Pentax SMC-FA*200mm f/4 ED Macro

QuoteOriginally posted by radman Quote
Is there an advantage to having the aperture blades rounded?
With rounded aperture blades out of focus areas and out of focus highlights take on less distracting shapes


Pentax K5IIs - Sigma 180mm f/3.5 APO EX Macro

If this lens didn't have 9 aperture blades the out of focus highlights would have looked different than the naturally rounded look they have here. It is important to note that rounded aperture blades only really offer a benefit at certain apertures, for instance on the D-FA 100mm f/2.8 WR the benefit is most clearly seen around f/2.8 to f/5.6 at f/8~f/16 the aperture shape is visible.
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