[mnaah]

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So, I picked up a 50mm f1.8 recently to get a feel for using a prime instead of a kit zoom. Obviously, it doesn't come with a lens hood. Is it worth picking up something cheap off amazon for it? any advantage of the pentax over a generic, besides twisting the hood a couple more times around? (I don't use filters at the moment...)

thanks for putting up with the learners like me!

[arnold]

It is not a bad idea to have a hood available for certain conditions. The main thing to check is that it fits of course, but also that it is wide enough for the lens to avoid vignetting. Some lenses need assistance from flare light more than others. Any brand should work if it fits.

[Adam]

So, I picked up a 50mm f1.8 recently to get a feel for using a prime instead of a kit zoom. Obviously, it doesn't come with a lens hood. Is it worth picking up something cheap off amazon for it? any advantage of the pentax over a generic, besides twisting the hood a couple more times around? (I don't use filters at the moment...)

thanks for putting up with the learners like me!

I'd go for a hood. Generic one should be fine!

[pepperberry farm]

I use the cheap aluminum hoods for all my primes that don't normally come with a hood (DA 50, DA 35) and some that do come with a hood (DA 40 Ltd):

something like so: 49mm Metal Vented Lens Hood for Leica M R Summicron Elmar Voigtlander Lens Sony | eBay

[Alex645]

Although Pentax does make some specialized hoods that are bayonet mount and have a cool little door to allow you to use a polarizer while the hood is on, they are expensive and not designed for the 50mm f/1.8. (Youʻll need a 52mm diameter hood; not too deep or too shallow.)

The problem Iʻve had with metal is that it can get dented or if hit, will transmit the shock to the filter or lens and cause damage. Plastic is lighter and is more likely to break itself, thus absorbing any collisions more than metal.

My favorite are the collapsible rubber type. With the others, I need a bigger bag or need to reverse them to fit. With rubber, itʻs fast and effective.

General Brand 52mm Collapsible Rubber Lens Hood NP11052 B&H

[mnaah]

Thanks all for the quick and helpful responses!

[noelpolar]

I use ones like on my 50mm here.....



They are metal and screw on.... give good protection to lens front element and look good as well..... on ebay for a few dollars. I find the rubber ones make the lens to thick to store when wound back.

[Unregistered User 8]

thanks for putting up with the learners like me!

We were all beginners once, and a lot of us ( me included ) still have lots to learn !!!

[ramseybuckeye]

I think as long as you have a hood that works you're OK. I have the DA 50/1.8 at work and the rubber hood works just fine. When I buy a lens that doesn't have a hood that's the first thing I get. The DA 35/2.4 is sold without a hood also, I have one just like what noelpolar is showing on his and it works great and never comes off. I initially had the square type that is recommended by Pentax, but my cheap aftermarket version could get knocked off too easily. The photo below shows the type I like best becuae you can put a lens cap on the front (you can with the one in Noel's photo too. And they look good are cheap on ebay. I almost never remove them.

[MikeD]

So, I picked up a 50mm f1.8 recently to get a feel for using a prime instead of a kit zoom. Obviously, it doesn't come with a lens hood. Is it worth picking up something cheap off amazon for it? any advantage of the pentax over a generic, besides twisting the hood a couple more times around? (I don't use filters at the moment...)

thanks for putting up with the learners like me!

There are some inexpensive collapsible rubber ones at B&H. They are really nice you don't have to take them off and they put a rubber bumper on the front of your lens for extra protection when in you bag or in use. Also they tend to be a little wider when in use so vignetting from the hood is not an issue as it sometimes can be with hard plastic ones.

[pacerr]

Yes they're a PITA. Yes they're helpful, even necessary, in many situations. Look through your auto windshield (clean or not) with the sun 30-90 degrees off-axis and you'll answer your own question.

The brand and type of hood shading the lens doesn't matter except for cosmetic concerns - use an assistant holding a sombrero to shade the lens if you like.

Modern coatings help and some lenses are less affected by off-axis light sources than others - even street lamps at night can cause problems - but all lenses benefit from the shading effects of a 'hood'.

Somewhere out there's a web presentation of the comparative effects of hoods on half a dozen famous 50mm lenses that leaves no doubt as to the benefits to contrast and apparent sharpness, not to mention the time saved in PP. I wish I could find it again.

[Nicolas06]

A hood is usefull in some conditions, in particular if your lens is quite sensitive to flare. It may help that 50mm on the wide appertures;

Everybody will insist on the hood... That being said, in most situation it doesn't make a difference and in difficult situation it is often not enough. To get good flare resistance, the best is to get a design that resist to flare.

I find the pepperberry hood proposition nice because it is quite small and look good and its cheap too.

Beware through that if a hood isn't made for the focal length/sensor size you use or if you use a zoom, it is almost useless. From the link of pepperberry for example, they say it is good for both 35 and 50mm (FF). But if it let enough light for 35mm, then it let enter too much light for 50mm. And if you are on APSC, you need more a hood made 70-75mm FF. Otherwise that would be a fancy looking piece of metal, no more.

[pacerr]

A fixed hood on zoom lenses has always been problematic as noted above.

My most used 'zoom hood' is a stiff piece of flat black construction paper rolled around the lens barrel and held by a rubber band. Just pull it forward til it begins to vignette at the FL used.

Cheap, simple, effective and easily stowed in the kit bag or pocket.

Then there's those options that drive the purists nuts . . . and yes, that works fine at 300mm.

Hey, that stuff's not just for breakfast ya know.

[mikeSF]

A fixed hood on zoom lenses has always been problematic as noted above.

My most used 'zoom hood' is a stiff piece of flat black construction paper rolled around the lens barrel and held by a rubber band. Just pull it forward til it begins to vignette at the FL used.

Cheap, simple, effective and easily stowed in the kit bag or pocket.

Then there's those options that drive the purists nuts . . . and yes, that works fine at 300mm.

Hey, that stuff's not just for breakfast ya know.

love the Hillbilly Hood!