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Obin Robinson · 09-15-2016, 04:52 AM

I read some articles on lens collimation and was quite excited about this service being offered yet it seems like LensRentals doesn't do this for everyone's lenses. I have performed precision collimation and calibration on my telescopes and can attest to the difference which it makes. I know that this sort of service is not cheap and I don't expect it to be. I would however like to know who can perform this high level of calibration on my vintage 6x7 lenses? On the same token I wouldn't mind sending a few of my other lenses out so that they can be collimated and calibrated precisely.

Does anyone know of a shop that can do high quality service on 6x7 or regular SLR lenses? Any information would be greatly appreciated.

obin

Unregistered User 8 · 09-15-2016, 05:01 AM

Originally posted by Obin Robinson

Who can do professional lens calibration and collimation?

Hi Obin. If this company cannot/will not do your lenses, they may know somebody who can. Good luck.

Services and Pricing

Obin Robinson · 09-15-2016, 06:08 AM

Originally posted by pjv

Hi Obin. If this company cannot/will not do your lenses, they may know somebody who can. Good luck.

Services and Pricing

Thanks for that! I'll see what I can find out for some of my lenses.

Originally posted by dcshooter

Dirty little secret: most camera lenses, particularly vintage ones like your 67 lenses, cannot be collimated in the way you would a telescope. This is because the elements are set in place in non-moving, nonadjustable mounts with permanent retaining rings. While you might be able to get some minisucle improvements through rotation of elements that aren't 100% symmetric, generally the factory position is the best one, and there is no way to move the elements forward and back with respect to each other or to adjust tilt along the visual axis.

The only other potential adjustment would be to separate cemented doublets/triplets and recement them, but again, barring any major manufacturing defects (i.e. it is cemented off-axis), you are unlikely to see any noticeable changes in image quality. I suppose shims might be an option as well, but they introduce their own sets of inconsistencies and would have to be custom cut to the correct diameter for each element in the stack.

Thanks for this info! I did not know that they can not be collimated. I think the lenses are performing quite well right now but I also would not mind making them as perfect as possible.

obin

Ontarian50 · 09-15-2016, 12:52 PM

Originally posted by dcshooter

Dirty little secret: most camera lenses, particularly vintage ones like your 67 lenses, cannot be collimated in the way you would a telescope. This is because the elements are set in place in non-moving, nonadjustable mounts with permanent retaining rings. While you might be able to get some minisucle improvements through rotation of elements that aren't 100% symmetric, generally the factory position is the best one, and there is no way to move the elements forward and back with respect to each other or to adjust tilt along the visual axis.

The only other potential adjustment would be to separate cemented doublets/triplets and recement them, but again, barring any major manufacturing defects (i.e. it is cemented off-axis), you are unlikely to see any noticeable changes in image quality. I suppose shims might be an option as well, but they introduce their own sets of inconsistencies and would have to be custom cut to the correct diameter for each element in the stack.

Yes, absolutely right. Most lenses offer little or no adjustment, aside from thin shims at the front element or rear mount to adjust focus for an accurate infinity.

Back in the day, German lens elements were carefully handpicked for compatibility with each other, and spacing was adjusted throughout with shims. Today, high end lenses have machined barrels into which the glass elements are tightly fitted and screwed into the chassis. There's no adjustment or calibration to speak of. Presumably the tolerances on the barrels and elements are held much tighter these days.

Most zooms using polycarbonate barrels and chassis have their element groups held in place with nylon bushings. They snap into position and screws hold them in place. There's no adjustment. One can only hope the plastic parts all come out of the mold with identical dimensions. But when they get old and worn, all that goes away anyway.

However, high end Canon lenses, such as the 70-200mm 2.8 do have some adjustability through the use of eccentric bushings on several zoom groups. No doubt that allows for calibration during factory assembly, but if that adjustment gets disturbed through wear and tear or after repair/cleaning, well....

But those vintage 67 lenses have metal barrels, and lens groups held in with threaded rings. Aside from the comment posted above that a slightly asymetrical element could be rotated into a better position, there's really nothing to adjust.

09-15-2016, 04:52 AM	#1
Obin Robinson Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Photos: Albums Posts: 272	Who can do professional lens calibration and collimation? I read some articles on lens collimation and was quite excited about this service being offered yet it seems like LensRentals doesn't do this for everyone's lenses. I have performed precision collimation and calibration on my telescopes and can attest to the difference which it makes. I know that this sort of service is not cheap and I don't expect it to be. I would however like to know who can perform this high level of calibration on my vintage 6x7 lenses? On the same token I wouldn't mind sending a few of my other lenses out so that they can be collimated and calibrated precisely. Does anyone know of a shop that can do high quality service on 6x7 or regular SLR lenses? Any information would be greatly appreciated. obin

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09-15-2016, 05:01 AM	#2
Unregistered User 8 Closed Account Join Date: Mar 2015 Photos: Gallery Posts: 8,694	Originally posted by Obin Robinson Who can do professional lens calibration and collimation? Hi Obin. If this company cannot/will not do your lenses, they may know somebody who can. Good luck. Services and Pricing

09-15-2016, 06:08 AM	#3
Obin Robinson Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Photos: Albums Posts: 272 Original Poster	Originally posted by pjv Hi Obin. If this company cannot/will not do your lenses, they may know somebody who can. Good luck. Services and Pricing Thanks for that! I'll see what I can find out for some of my lenses. Originally posted by dcshooter Dirty little secret: most camera lenses, particularly vintage ones like your 67 lenses, cannot be collimated in the way you would a telescope. This is because the elements are set in place in non-moving, nonadjustable mounts with permanent retaining rings. While you might be able to get some minisucle improvements through rotation of elements that aren't 100% symmetric, generally the factory position is the best one, and there is no way to move the elements forward and back with respect to each other or to adjust tilt along the visual axis. The only other potential adjustment would be to separate cemented doublets/triplets and recement them, but again, barring any major manufacturing defects (i.e. it is cemented off-axis), you are unlikely to see any noticeable changes in image quality. I suppose shims might be an option as well, but they introduce their own sets of inconsistencies and would have to be custom cut to the correct diameter for each element in the stack. Thanks for this info! I did not know that they can not be collimated. I think the lenses are performing quite well right now but I also would not mind making them as perfect as possible. obin

09-15-2016, 12:52 PM	#4
Ontarian50 Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Posts: 530	Originally posted by dcshooter Dirty little secret: most camera lenses, particularly vintage ones like your 67 lenses, cannot be collimated in the way you would a telescope. This is because the elements are set in place in non-moving, nonadjustable mounts with permanent retaining rings. While you might be able to get some minisucle improvements through rotation of elements that aren't 100% symmetric, generally the factory position is the best one, and there is no way to move the elements forward and back with respect to each other or to adjust tilt along the visual axis. The only other potential adjustment would be to separate cemented doublets/triplets and recement them, but again, barring any major manufacturing defects (i.e. it is cemented off-axis), you are unlikely to see any noticeable changes in image quality. I suppose shims might be an option as well, but they introduce their own sets of inconsistencies and would have to be custom cut to the correct diameter for each element in the stack. Yes, absolutely right. Most lenses offer little or no adjustment, aside from thin shims at the front element or rear mount to adjust focus for an accurate infinity. Back in the day, German lens elements were carefully handpicked for compatibility with each other, and spacing was adjusted throughout with shims. Today, high end lenses have machined barrels into which the glass elements are tightly fitted and screwed into the chassis. There's no adjustment or calibration to speak of. Presumably the tolerances on the barrels and elements are held much tighter these days. Most zooms using polycarbonate barrels and chassis have their element groups held in place with nylon bushings. They snap into position and screws hold them in place. There's no adjustment. One can only hope the plastic parts all come out of the mold with identical dimensions. But when they get old and worn, all that goes away anyway. However, high end Canon lenses, such as the 70-200mm 2.8 do have some adjustability through the use of eccentric bushings on several zoom groups. No doubt that allows for calibration during factory assembly, but if that adjustment gets disturbed through wear and tear or after repair/cleaning, well.... But those vintage 67 lenses have metal barrels, and lens groups held in with threaded rings. Aside from the comment posted above that a slightly asymetrical element could be rotated into a better position, there's really nothing to adjust.