Originally posted by RAART Just to clarify this... It is not just for orientation and it is very useful back then, in the 35mm film days. In order to be accurate you have to mount those lenses at least on digital full frame cameras. It is measured and designed for film 35mm SLR's and not for APS-C or m4/3 sensors. If you do not believe me ask someone you trust and it is very knowledgeable about using SLR's as well as DSLR's and have experience on both systems.
Think just about regular car tires... Put the wrong size (height) and your speedometer is off...
Oooohh, I haven't even though about the sensor size affecting that. I've never owned a full-frame DSLR or a film-SLR so that never even occurred to me. Well you do learn something every day.
(that car tire size btw, people miss-judge that constantly. It actually has a really big effect on the speedometer. My brother has 3" difference in his summer vs winter tires. It shows.)
Originally posted by UncleVanya The Ricoh mount included a separate pin on it that can get the lens stuck on a Pentax DSLR but otherwise has no real impact.
The extra long guard on the mount may work just fine on older film cameras - some additional space has been taken over the years by extra contacts in the mount area. Typically that shield can be removed and or trimmed down to allow lenses to fit without causing problems.
The only 28mm-200mm I have ever seen in person is the FA version (Sigma made a version also). This lens is autofocus but inexpensive and of moderate quality. However on the mirrorless camera it may be less satisfactory to focus due to the limited amount the focus ring turns, the limited damening, and the relatively narrow aperture.
Prime lenses may focus with less problems than a large range zoom. The focus shift you mention is more than I would expect and seems likely related to the accuracy of the mount distance. I'm sorry but what you are asking for may need more precision which may be too much money. I would suggest perhaps splitting the zoom range and grabbing a 28-70 or 28-80 to pair with a 70-200 or 70-150.
Generally the wider the range the more compromised the design on a zoom.
One other option to consider is to specifically look for a parfocal lens. This will at least eliminate the focus shift you're seeing. It isn't clear if then it will focus across the board correctly, but it should be easier to see if it works.
Yeah I noticed once pointed out to me that there's a couple of pins in the K-m body where the guard should fit.. That just leaves the question of why it is longer in the first place
(but not part of this thread, obviously)
The focus shift is.. fascinating. Not just because it exists, but particularly because it appears ONLY on these two lenses. It does not appear on any primes that I own, nor does it appear on any other zooms I own, 18-55, 35-80, 70-150, 75-200 or a 50-200. The only focus shift I'm experiencing is with a 200mm prime with a M42->PK adapter, but that's because it's a poor $1 adapter that changes the flange distance.
(also, for clarification, I didn't ask for anyone to "fix" it, I just wanted to know if there's is something different in the 28-> zooms vs. any other lens, because they seem to be the only ones with this focus shift I'm experiencing.)
Originally posted by Skodadriver I sold both a
TAMRON AF 28-105mm F4-5.6 Model 179D Not too heavy and auto-focus,
for £21 earlier this year as I preferred the Pentax-A 35-105mm I subsequently bought.
and a Vivitar 35-105mm Constant F3.5, heavy larger than the Pentax,
for £12.50 as it was replaced by that Pentax-A 35-105mm
I had been happy with both lenses until I found my preferred walk around lens (though it is not light!)
There are bargains out there, I did not lose any money...well very little.
One thing to remember about using lenses with Ricoh pins on your K-M, some of the Ricoh are rounded, some are not and will catch in your camera's screw drive aperture. Lots of posts about this on the Forum too.
Enjoy your legacy lenses on your K-M.
Oh bummer. I need to start checking this site more then
Those are like REALLY great prices to me for those items. 28-105mm (AF?) for £21? Damned I would've jumped on such a deal... Except I need to factor in the shipping costs of course, but still. Oh well. I'll keep looking for the deals
---------- Post added 09-27-16 at 04:27 PM ----------
Originally posted by marcusBMG You're not alone in encountering this problem. I have the same lens and yeah, on my lumix G1 with PK adapter the lens only focuses to about 3m distance! And the similar 28-210mm (cosina made as opposed to kobori for the 28-200mm) is the same!
I'd understand that, in a way. But with my G3, the lens doesn't focus (@28mm) at ALL, I mean NOTHING is in focus, no matter the distance. It focuses to about ~2m when zoomed to ~40mm (about halfway between the 35mm and the 50mm mark). But wider than that it does not focus. At all. the flange/register distance should affect the lenses ability to focus to certain distance, but - correct me if I'm wrong - it shouldn't affect its ability to focus -at all-? (It's basically the same as adding an extension tube - the lens focuses nearer but not far, but adding extensions doesn't alter the lens so it doesn't focus -anywhere-) When I tried either of the lens @28mm, I couldn't get them to focus at all. At least you can focus to 3m
I could've lived with that too, now that I think about it. If I need 28mm wide, I'm rarely focusing that close anyway, so I'd have counted that as a quirk that I need to live with, but now..
Originally posted by marcusBMG Yeah, I noticed that one. It just didn't even occur to me that a "PK mount" lens wouldn't fit a Pentax body - oh well now I know better.
I'll try to remove and/or file the guard and I'll let you know how it goes with my K-m.
Originally posted by marcusBMG FWIW these early viv superzooms are really optically quite good - I did some comparison pics against a DA 18-135mm and from 35mm up they held their own well.
That's what I mean (with the quality) - old glass is sometimes really great, and more often that not it is acceptable. I'm not a quality-seeker in that I've never felt that I needed to upgrade any lenses or bodies because I wanted more quality - it's more the other things (like now I really, REALLY would like to have a WR body + lens.)
Last edited by AnttiV; 09-27-2016 at 07:07 AM.
Reason: Pardon my French