[Shock2DC]

I am looking to acquire a lens that can take good pics in an outdoor setting, kids, horses, twilight and corral lighting. I probably can't afford anything that goes down too far (like f/1.2) but would like something that is a good value for the money. As sunlight hours begin to dwindle, the kids are working outdoors with their horses in darkening light. I would like to continue to take pictures, particularly as that is when they are riding, but my lenses seem insufficient to do so, without leaving the shutter open too long and getting movement blur. I do have a tripod, but that is limiting to a great extent. My zoom lenses only go down to f/3.5, and the tighter in I zoom, the bigger the issue becomes of not enough light. Flash isn't really much of an option as it can startle the horses and/or riders, and/or won't work in sequence shots. I am still learning the basics of what setting does what, so most of the time I am working in automatic mode and letting the camera choose - which probably isn't the best but I don't have much time to devote to learning all the ins and outs, and none of the local camera stores have any expertise in Pentax cameras, they just try to sell you a Canon.

I have picked up these in the past few weeks, since acquiring a K50 secondhand.
Pentax F 100-300 f/4.5-5.6
Gemini MC 52mm f/2.8-22
Pentax F SMC 35-80 f/4-22

These I have from my *istDL days - which is why I bought another Pentax, so I could continue to use them...
Unknown brand - 28-200 f/3.5-22
Pentax SMC DA 18-55 f/3.5-5.6

Would any of these work, if so, with what settings, or would another lens, with a greater Fstop be the ticket; and, if so, what lens?

[Sagitta]

How low is low for the budget? You can pick up the Samyang 1.4's for a few hundred bucks, less if you catch them on sale.

I have the 85mm f/1.4 and the 35mm f/1.4 and I think they cost me under $600 for the pair a few years back.

EDIT: You can probably use the K50 at ISO 1600-3200 without too much trouble if you pop for a good denoising software of some sort.

[bigdavephoto]

For a lens that would be good, if you don't need a zoom lens, try the DA50 1.8. New I think it runs around $120. Used can be as low as $70-$80.


I would also suggest getting out of auto. For shots in fading light, you really need some control over the camera. If you don't want to use Aperture priority or Shutter priority, put your camera on the P mark so you can have some control. With your camera in P mode, the camera will work in auto unless you move the front or rear dials. I believe the front one is for shutter control, the rear one is for aperture.


Another thing about using P mode is that if you want to, you can also control what ISO you are using. For photos in twilight, I would move the ISO up to 1000 or even as high as 6400 or higher if need be. I don't have a K50 so I am not familiar with it but if I remember right, (going off of my K7 and K5II-s) you will need to go into the menu and allow for expanded ISO.


I am sure some of the other members that are not lazy as I am when it comes to photography will pop in and give you some better advise then what I have. What I said is a start.

[sergysergy]

I think trying to capture movement in low light is going to be challenging for any camera+lens combination. Before acquiring any other lenses I would practice and get to know your equipment better. Maybe you can post some pictures you have taken so that we can give you more input and ways to improve?

[Adam]

The K-70 plus the 55-300mm PLM are an excellent cheap-ish choice for action shooting. Our preliminary testing has shown that the camera is actually really good at higher ISO settings, even more so than the K-3 II.

There's no super-cheap way to get the best gear, so if you want to stick with the K-50, I'd recommend something like the DA 55-300mm and you should be good. Way better than film-era lenses.

[pres589]

I would check evilbay for a Pentax F or FA series 50mm f1.7. Recently saw one with a film camera and a mediocre 3rd party zoom for $100, buy now priced. Another option is the DA35 2.4.

Used prime is going to get you the best low light bang for your buck.

[hcc]

I feel that you are asking a lot. Low light action shots require a fast lens. That is, a lens with a large aperture (like f1.4). In very low light, the AF may not be accurate and it is worth to consider a MF lens with a fine adjustement focus ring. There are many MF 50mm f1.4 lenses on the market to consider, even the A50mm f1.2 (albeit a bit pricy).

Based upon my (limited) experience with the K-7, K-01 and K-3 cameras, I would strongly advise for a fast lens (f1.4), before changing your camera. This would be the cheaper option. On another hand, if you do need AF, change camera body and get a f2.8 lens (or faster).

I have shot waves, surfers and sport actions in low lights (poorly lighted sport halls, sunset, heavy rainstorm) with the above cameras. The K-3 is by far superior, but I got decent shots with my K-7 using a MF 50mm f1.5 (Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4) or a 85mm f1.4.

I hope that the comment may help.

[mattb123]

The DA 50/1.8 or DA 35/2.4 are good in low light on a budget. Also increasing iso to 1600 or so will help, higher if necessary.
Focus will probably be a challenge too. You may want to prefocus where you think the action will be if AF doesn't cut it.

[Kozlok]

Low light is hard. Action is hard. Together is quite a challenge. Sorry to say if low light action is your goal, you are going to have to work on your skills.

To use a horse analogy, what would you say to someone who told you they didn't have time to learn to ride a horse, but they really needed to place at the Kentucky Derby? Can you recommend a saddle to get them to the podium? Same problem here.

[Shock2DC]

How low is low for the budget? You can pick up the Samyang 1.4's for a few hundred bucks, less if you catch them on sale.

I have the 85mm f/1.4 and the 35mm f/1.4 and I think they cost me under $600 for the pair a few years back.

EDIT: You can probably use the K50 at ISO 1600-3200 without too much trouble if you pop for a good denoising software of some sort.

$600 is way out of my ball park, UNFORTUNATELY, we are in the $100 arena. Wasn't sure if it could be done, but it never hurts to ask - and I know what to look for when I am on eBay, craigslist and letgo scouting for deals. I do have Adobe Photoshop 13, which does a fairly good job of fixing afterwards whatever happens between my eye sees and the camera captures. Not sure if there is anything better that's not in the 100's of dollars range, which is not doable. I

---------- Post added 10-06-16 at 05:51 AM ----------

For a lens that would be good, if you don't need a zoom lens, try the DA50 1.8. New I think it runs around $120. Used can be as low as $70-$80.


I would also suggest getting out of auto. For shots in fading light, you really need some control over the camera. If you don't want to use Aperture priority or Shutter priority, put your camera on the P mark so you can have some control. With your camera in P mode, the camera will work in auto unless you move the front or rear dials. I believe the front one is for shutter control, the rear one is for aperture.


Another thing about using P mode is that if you want to, you can also control what ISO you are using. For photos in twilight, I would move the ISO up to 1000 or even as high as 6400 or higher if need be. I don't have a K50 so I am not familiar with it but if I remember right, (going off of my K7 and K5II-s) you will need to go into the menu and allow for expanded ISO.


I am sure some of the other members that are not lazy as I am when it comes to photography will pop in and give you some better advise then what I have. What I said is a start.

Thank you. Now I know where to start and what to look for. I am not being lazy, it's just that there is SO much that knowing where to begin sometimes feels impossible. You have to know what setting you need to change before you can look it up in manuals or books, and googling it leads down countless rabbit holes. I tend to get overwhelmed, and if I know where to focus FIRST then I can add things as I go on. A zoom lens would be great, but I notice the issues really ramp up as the zoom depletes the light around the darker subject, so cropping isn't a big issue. Thank you for pointing me in the direction I need to be looking!

[bigdavephoto]

$600 is way out of my ball park, UNFORTUNATELY, we are in the $100 arena. Wasn't sure if it could be done, but it never hurts to ask - and I know what to look for when I am on eBay, craigslist and letgo scouting for deals. I do have Adobe Photoshop 13, which does a fairly good job of fixing afterwards whatever happens between my eye sees and the camera captures. Not sure if there is anything better that's not in the 100's of dollars range, which is not doable. I

---------- Post added 10-06-16 at 05:51 AM ----------



Thank you. Now I know where to start and what to look for. I am not being lazy, it's just that there is SO much that knowing where to begin sometimes feels impossible. You have to know what setting you need to change before you can look it up in manuals or books, and googling it leads down countless rabbit holes. I tend to get overwhelmed, and if I know where to focus FIRST then I can add things as I go on. A zoom lens would be great, but I notice the issues really ramp up as the zoom depletes the light around the darker subject, so cropping isn't a big issue. Thank you for pointing me in the direction I need to be looking!

I hope you didn't misunderstand the lazy part. I was calling myself lazy because I really like the P mode setting. Sorry if you did misunderstand.


Last night after replying to your post, I was on the marketplace and another member has a Pentax F50 1.7 for sale for $99.
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/24-photographic-equipment-sale/330799-sal...7-af-lens.html


The F50 will work just as well as the DA50.

[pres589]

I kind of think the F 50 1.7 will perform a bit better than the DA 50 1.8. I have nothing to back this up *at all* so grain of salt. Either would be a huge improvement.

The one thing I don't like about my M 50 1.4 is how badly highlights are blown out at 1.4 at night. Think headlights and streetlights and such. Everything gets a vicious halo of light around the emitting object.

OP, get thee a faster prime, and I bet you'll enjoy having this feature at your disposal.

[radman]

Hi,


I am going to make this brief since I am late to the discussion and I have already read about your budget limit.


I was going to recommend the Tamron (or Sigma equiv) 70-200 f2.8 for low light action. However, this is in the 500+ range used. Something to look into at a later time maybe. I am not sure of the value of your other lenses, but if you could sell them and put them toward the cost of another lens...this is the all in one (70-200 mm range) lens I would recommend.


The 50 mm recommendations above make sense to me because of the fast apertures (1.8 and 1.7) but may allow for adequate reach.


I do not have experience with the 85mm fast lenses, but personally I have NOT had success using MF lenses for my sports photography. I know people are successful with MF for sports, but not me. I imagine it take experience, practice, patience, and I would guess a resultant higher (comp to AF) miss rate.


1 last thing that I did not see mentioned above. Try panning your camera to help slow the action of your subject.


Hope this helps,


radman

[Shock2DC]

I hope you didn't misunderstand the lazy part. I was calling myself lazy because I really like the P mode setting. Sorry if you did misunderstand.


Last night after replying to your post, I was on the marketplace and another member has a Pentax F50 1.7 for sale for $99.
[URL]https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/24-photographic-equipment-sale/330799-sale-pentax-f-50mm-1-7-af-lens.html[/URL


The F50 will work just as well as the DA50.

No offense taken. I understood. For what I want to accomplish, I realize that I am relying too much on auto mode, which is me being lazy. While I want to break out of it, I always feel overwhelmed when I try because I don't understand the terminology used in videos and books. My daughter has finally been released to ride unassisted again, and I don't want to miss those pictures if I can avoid it. I am happy for your advice. I will definitely check out your link.

[wibbly]

here's the thing

if you're shooting action with moving subjects and dim lighting, shooting at wide apertures is going to give you all kinds of nicely exposed, but out of focus shots. hell take your k50 and a da50 f1.8 in poor light and see how many nice sharp shots you get wide open with NON moving subjects.

there's just so little leeway for misfocus at wide apertures and your camera is going to have a harder time focusing in low light at any aperture.

your best bet is to get something like adam said (55-300), and push the ISO to make up for the shutter.