[shardulm]

DA* 50-135mm f2.8 might be worth a shout and will mean your DA 35 will still be useful

I Second that. I highly recommend getting this 50-135/2.8. If you find a used copy for cheap and that has a good working SDM you are golden. This lens is the equivalent FOV of D-FA 70-200/2.8 on a FF. So this is a must for all portrait work if you are shooting K-50, K-5/ii and or K-3. I will go as far out in saying that this is the glass you should be buying next. 50/1.7 is very good and you don't need DA version even if it is AF, so don't give into the temptation and save up even it if it is under a Franklin. 16-50 should be next.

[Alnjpn]

You need to upgrade your zoom first. Get the Sigma 17-50 2.8 as others have suggested. You will be able to get by of this and your k50 for some time.

[radman]

Hi Robert,

You are getting great advice and some of this can get overwhelming.

Some of the lenses mentioned are expensive!

Since you are in college and still using kit lenses for the most part, I like the idea of upgrading your 18-55 (esp. if that is the range you are using the most)
Sigma 17-50 has been suggested.
Tamron makes a 17-50 f2.8 that has similar reviews and is usually a bit less expensive.
I have never use the Pentax 16-50 - but that is def the most expensive of the 3.

I don't have experience in advertising and I have never sold any of my photos.
Adam's idea about using FB (and you might as well leverage your other social sites) sounds like a good place to start until you have the money to spend.

Maybe your next lens after a 17-50 could be a portrait lens if you are planning on doing that - 50mm f1.8 could work or a 70mm f2.4
If you are going to need something longer the tamron 70-200 (less cost than the sigma) may be the way to go.

Regards,

radman

[macman24054]

Take it from someone who was in your shoes a few short years ago. From my expense I will list in order my next few purchases.
1. Tamron 28-75 2.8 - this is the single most useful lens I have. 65% of the pictures I take on a wedding day is using this lens. If you need wider the 18mm end of your kit lens is 3.5. Since the sharpest lens is not a must for weddings and portraits the wide end of the kit will do (for now).
2. K3 body. Having never had a card failure until last Saturday, my K3 purchase moved well up my list of best money I have spent that is gear related. Get it with the best SD cards you can find and have RAW fils saved to both cards.
3. 2 to 4 good flash units that have a good guide number and you can manually set the power output on them. Natural light photography is important but lighting portraits with off camera lighting is key to setting yourself apart from other new photographers. Every couple asks if I shoot candid shots. The artistic portraits are what they end up getting. I have 10 flash units because I have learned how important lighting is and I have gotten enough to cover about any situation I find myself in. 2 to 4 will allow you the start learning the hardest part of photography.
4. DA* 50-135 2.8- this is a special lens that gives you a bit more range. It allows you to take some truly stunning portraits.
5. DA* 16-50 or 17-50 2.8 (Sigma or Tamron). Now get your wide lens out of the way. Unless your style is to shoot wide shots this will be the least used of your fast zooms.
This is just my opinion and what has fit for my style. Not at all saying this is right for you. Just do you research and base your purchases based on what will allow you to improve on what area you feel is your weakest areas. Practice, practice, practice!!!

Edit: welcome to the forum. Like someone earlier said establish a few strong social media efforts before paying for marketing.

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Last edited by macman24054; 12-04-2016 at 09:36 PM.

[clackers]

Sigma 17-50 f2.8 and DA*50-135 f2.8 make such a classy combination on Pentax APS-C, IMHO.

[JeffB]

Forget about upgrading. You need redundancy if you are accepting payment for services. Showing up to a paid gig with only one functioning camera body is malpractice. You need 2 (or more) of everything. The backups do not need to be fancy but they need to work. Get a beat up old K-7 for cheap. You may never need to use it but if you do you'll be darn glad it is in the bag.

[GSiGuy]

I'm all for getting a 24/28-70/75 constant 2.8 lens for events. Very useful on a crop sensor.

I also agree that a second body is very useful. You can then attach a good prime like a FA77Ltd or 85mm lens (to cover head shots) and carry both on one of these:- Savvy Shooter?s Guide to Dual-Camera Carrying Systems | B&H Explora

[Alex645]

When you go Pro, trust and reputation become essential. So first and foremost, Iʻd recommend a second camera with a spare battery. The K-50 will make an excellent back-up in case of disaster. Itʻs a lot less painful when a camera dies if you can finish the job to pay for the repairs or replacement.

Secondly, Iʻd recommend a Pentax dedicated bounce/swivel flash. If for no other reason, it will help you autofocus in poor light. If you donʻt need weather sealing, the Metz Mecablitz 44 AF2 is excellent and even has a little video light built in. $230 is a great price.
Metz mecablitz 44 AF-2 Digital Flash for Pentax MZ 44327PEN B&H

However, if you may be shooting outdoors or going from a church or hotel interior to an outdoor setting, weather sealing will really help to keep the flash reliable and durable and thatʻs one reason the Pentax units are pricier. The Pentax AF360FGZII fits the bill at $397 or if you have large groups that may need fill flash outdoors or you want to bounce the light off larger walls or higher ceilings, then the Pentax AF540FGZII has the power for $432.
Pentax AF360FGZ II Flash 30438 B&H Photo Video
Pentax AF540FGZ II Flash 30456 B&H Photo Video

Also flash units recycle (flash is ready) faster with rechargeable cells, so get at least 8-12 and a decent charger for it. These days Panasonic Eneloopʻs seem to be the class act: Panasonic eneloop pro High Capacity Power Pack K-KJ17KHC82A B&H

For now, I think you have enough lenses to cover most situations. After the 2nd body and a fast and versatile flash, then Iʻd start seeing what lens youʻre missing that would have the greatest impact to your current kit.

[howieb101]

Hi.

I highly recommend getting the Sigma 17-50 F2.8 HSM. Fast, silent and sharp. Also has very competitive pricing.

In the future as funds permit the Pentax DA* 50-135mm or a Sigma 85mm F1.4 would be great as portrait options.

---------- Post added 12-05-2016 at 02:38 AM ----------

Hi.

I should add if you decide to go down the path of acquiring fast lenses, ie, F2 or faster, make sure you get a Pentax body that can adjust AF for multiple lenses.

This is worth its weight in gold as otherwise you may have to send back lenses that aren't perfectly matched to the AF of the camera.

[lithedreamer]

Also flash units recycle (flash is ready) faster with rechargeable cells, so get at least 8-12 and a decent charger for it. These days Panasonic Eneloopʻs seem to be the class act: Panasonic eneloop pro High Capacity Power Pack K-KJ17KHC82A B&H

For now, I think you have enough lenses to cover most situations. After the 2nd body and a fast and versatile flash, then Iʻd start seeing what lens youʻre missing that would have the greatest impact to your current kit.

I love me some Eneloops, but I don't recommend the Pros unless you have some special need. They're higher capacity, but they're both more expensive and they don't last as many recharge cycles as regular Eneloops. For almost everyone, it makes sense to just buy more regular Eneloops.

[pres589]

Personally I'd grab a K-5II or IIs for low light / high ISO image quality over a K-3. Should also be a bit less costly. Probably won't find a K-5 of any time new at this point but buying from a reputable company like KEH, I'd trust a good condition used K-5 II. There are some great deals on good condition used Tamron 17-50's out there. Sigma's as well but I like the Tamron and have a little experience with one and liked it. I think lighting would be a good place to target after that. I think that once you have a good quality zoom like either of the 17-50's mentioned, you'll have a better idea if you want to go wider next or longer with a follow up lens purchase.

The suggestions of building your network and taking classes sound good to me.

[FantasticMrFox]

For your work, my priorities would be:

Fast, versatile upgrade to your kit standard zoom - e.g. Sigma 17-50 f/2.8
Fast, AF portrait lens - DA 50 f/1.8
Second/better/reliable camera body - K3

More batteries, SD cards etc.

And I would lay off on the AdWorks and work on Facebook/Instagram/Website instead, tailored to your local target audience.

[robthebloke]

As others have said, a k-3 and a DA 50-135 (k-3 first for the dual card slots, the improved AF, better durability, and insane burst rate). That lens is not as good as the FA77, but it gets you 95% of the way there, with more versatility and silent focussing to boot. There is also the phycological element as well. "He has a big lens on his camera, he must be good". It's a great lens for picking people out of the crowd at a wedding. If however you intend to be doing portraits more than events, you'd be better off with a good portrait prime (DA70, DA*55, FA77)

I'd also probably suggest a 24-70 ish f2.8 zoom for the bread and butter events work - possibly before the 50-135. The 18-55 and 50-200 are a little weak imho.

Having said all of that, I will say that technique has a lot to do with it as well - especially your ability to use flash well. Photographers often don't get to choose the venue. If the bride and groom want to get married in a candle lit coal mine, that's their choice. Make sure that no matter how bad the lighting is, you'll be able to get the shot.

[slip]

DA* 50-135mm f2.8 might be worth a shout and will mean your DA 35 will still be useful

and a samyang 14 f2.8 or 16 f2 for the wide/night usage

those could eventually be complemented by primes or zooms to cover that ~20-50 range a bit more

I second the DA* 50-135. for anything but groups, this lens hardly ever comes off.
If you want to be really creative, sigma 10-20 would funk up things

good luck

randy

[DougieD]

I probably shouldn't be sticking my nose in this thread, because I don't get paid to shoot, and people aren't my main area of interest anyway. But I consider my DA L 18-55mm semi-autofocus, at best. It often misses, and no amount of fiddling with the fine focus adjustment has changed that. I often manually focus that lens, and occasionally consider leaving it in the woods when I leave. As a professional- and that's what you are when you start taking money from people- you need dependable equipment. In that case, I'd replace that kit lens as soon as possible. That's based on my experience with my copy, at least.