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08-09-2008, 03:17 PM   #16
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For #5, your shutter speed is wayyyy too slow. 1/60th won't work with even the slightest breeze.
If you want to use 1/60th, use a flash to "freeze" the motion.

For tripod use, I usually frame w/o the tripod, then get the tripod in the right position to hold the camera. Still a pain at 1:1 though...

08-09-2008, 09:04 PM   #17
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Fabulous series especially No2+3 and other flowers closeups


cheers
08-10-2008, 06:03 AM   #18
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[QUOTE=kenyee;313039]
If you want to use 1/60th, use a flash to "freeze" the motion.
QUOTE]

How does this work?
The reason you would use the flash would be so that you don't need to have it at 1/60th. Using it while still having shutter speed of 1/60th won't freeze the motion.
08-10-2008, 07:48 AM   #19
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macro

I own vivitar 105 f2.5.

For 1:1 magnification, the depth of field is extremely shallow/thin. For external environment, the image will be affected by wind if any, secondly your own breadth you are taking. That itself causes camera shake, though negligible ie in effect magnified when you are in macro going for 1:1 ratio.

Most of my macro, I compliment it with 540 flashlight to offset wind. and my own breadth.With flashllight, I am able to use a higher shutter speed and higher f stop numbers for greater depth of field.

When there is sufficient sunlight and aperture could go from 5.6 and higher and with shutter 1/50 and faster, I will refrained from using flashlight. Usually morning sun or noon.

use of tripod is great for indoor and still life. When there is wind, it becomes difficult. A steady hand is essential too.



shot this with vivitar 105 macro

marcus

08-10-2008, 11:34 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by bonovox Quote
The reason you would use the flash would be so that you don't need to have it at 1/60th. Using it while still having shutter speed of 1/60th won't freeze the motion.
Try to take a photo of a drop of water or high speed fan at 1/60th with a flash...

The flash's light period is a lot smaller than 1/180th of a sec...
08-10-2008, 09:46 PM   #21
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macro

outdoor macro, over 20 shots and I'll have probably 10 to 15 % keepers. The rest, got to discard. This is a Norm, I hope most macro shooters will agree.. With flashlights, a bette chance of keepers as you will have better lights with smaller aperture and higher shutter speed to explore. A better chance to freeze the subject even then there is elements of wind.

marcus
08-10-2008, 10:21 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by marcusyoung Quote
outdoor macro, over 20 shots and I'll have probably 10 to 15 % keepers. The rest, got to discard. This is a Norm, I hope most macro shooters will agree.. With flashlights, a bette chance of keepers as you will have better lights with smaller aperture and higher shutter speed to explore. A better chance to freeze the subject even then there is elements of wind.

marcus
Thank you all for the tips and suggestions. It is a great learning experience with the inputs and tips on macros.
08-10-2008, 11:50 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by marcusyoung Quote
outdoor macro, over 20 shots and I'll have probably 10 to 15 % keepers. The rest, got to discard. This is a Norm, I hope most macro shooters will agree.. With flashlights, a bette chance of keepers as you will have better lights with smaller aperture and higher shutter speed to explore. A better chance to freeze the subject even then there is elements of wind.
I completely agree with you. I'm an experienced macro shooter, but it's true that 90% of my outdoor shots are useless, if I use a ring flash or not. The wind is indeed the main reason for out of focus shots.

08-11-2008, 06:39 PM   #24
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I shot this with my Vivitar 100mm F2.8, hand held... The wind was indeed my enemy. What I would also say is if part of the picture is in focus and not the rest then the issue is purely depth of field rather than any fault of the lens (assuming it's centered properly lol) ...



p.s. I did pump up the clarity of this shot in Lightroom
08-13-2008, 10:09 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by Asahiflex Quote
I completely agree with you. I'm an experienced macro shooter, but it's true that 90% of my outdoor shots are useless, if I use a ring flash or not. The wind is indeed the main reason for out of focus shots.
Thanks for all the comments. I tried various means to get close to 1:1 with diopter, extension tubes and 2x macro converter and all boils down to very narrow DOF and a slow shutter speed with wind kills most of my test pictures with blur. I find tripod getting in a way in framing and I will try next on using my tripod as a monopod and experiment with ring flash.

I am hoping the use of flash can get the shutter speed fast enough to handle the wind and a smaller aperture as in f/11 and f/16.

The lens does have nice bokeh and color. I find myself doing a bit better with the lens in 1:2 than 1:1



All shots close to 1:2 magnification






1:1 & 1:2 with Lester A Dine 105mm f/2.8



If anyone have links to macro photography with setup and tutorials on using flash in macro, I can use some help.

Last edited by hinman; 08-13-2008 at 10:15 AM.
08-13-2008, 11:20 AM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by hinman Quote
I am hoping the use of flash can get the shutter speed fast enough to handle the wind and a smaller aperture as in f/11 and f/16.
The important part of a flash is that it gives you a strobe "freeze" effect to counter the wind. You actually want to minimize the power level of a flash...more power = bigger light pulse = less of a freeze effect. That's why people who shoot hummingbirds use a lot of flashes at lot power...

You're getting there. FWIW, I don't find 1:1 that useful except for bugs that you want to magnify. The DOF is way too small...

ken
08-13-2008, 01:42 PM   #27
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flash

QuoteOriginally posted by kenyee Quote
The important part of a flash is that it gives you a strobe "freeze" effect to counter the wind. You actually want to minimize the power level of a flash...more power = bigger light pulse = less of a freeze effect. That's why people who shoot hummingbirds use a lot of flashes at lot power...

You're getting there. FWIW, I don't find 1:1 that useful except for bugs that you want to magnify. The DOF is way too small...

ken
It is true, flash helps freeze the subject. Try f11 with flash and shutter speed of 160 or 180 in Aperturre priority mode or M-Mode. Try also f9, shutter 1/180 iso 100 and different combination. I prefer handheld over tripod or monopod as there is a tendency of wind. Also, hold your breadth for that split sec, when you want to trigger the shutter. Try f16 and shutter 1/100 too.

Go for !: 2 magnification if you are taking flowers. This gives u and slightly greater distance from the subject you are taking and allows you to frame too. If you are going for 1:1 magnification, the distance will be extremely near to the subject, maybe 6 inches as the minimum focusing distance from the subject. The depth of field is extremely thin, maybe the edge of the flower if that is the point of focus and the rest will be out of focus.

If you are taking 1:1 magnification, go for bugs or insects and aim at the eye of the insects. Try the above setting for bugs at this close distance. Probably the point of focus will just be the eye and the rest of the body will be out of focus. assuming the bug is about 1 cm in length or diameter.

The OOF is nice for vivitar expecially orchids and other plants but sharpness is within an mm or so.. Try and explore the lens together with the flash.

You will enjoy the world of macro as you get used to the lens and flash.

Without the flash, if there is sufficient lights that allow your shutter to to 1/50 and faster with f8 or f7.1, the colors from those natural plants can be extremely beautiful.

marcus
08-13-2008, 08:04 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by kenyee Quote
Try to take a photo of a drop of water or high speed fan at 1/60th with a flash...

The flash's light period is a lot smaller than 1/180th of a sec...
I stand corrected.

Thanks for teaching me about this - very helpful tip.
08-13-2008, 08:26 PM   #29
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Hin and Marcus

QuoteOriginally posted by marcusyoung Quote
outdoor macro, over 20 shots and I'll have probably 10 to 15 % keepers. The rest, got to discard. This is a Norm, I hope most macro shooters will agree.. With flashlights, a bette chance of keepers as you will have better lights with smaller aperture and higher shutter speed to explore. A better chance to freeze the subject even then there is elements of wind.

marcus
You are doing better than me Marcus... 8.27% keeper rate for me

Hin, I love your last rose shot. Like I said your color/bokeh may even be a bit better than I am getting from my vivi 105, but part of that could be K10 vs k100.

Ps I got my K100d back today from the repair facility. It was only gone two weeks or so for the pixel remap. I have not checked it out yet, maybe tomorrow.

In the meantime I am posting for your critique some shots I took with the old
S6000 + raynox. You told me not to search out a film body and to just use the fuji... I am so glad I took your advice. The S6000 is still a very good p&s family cam and a true macro machine....

Fuji S6000 + raynox 250











thanks for the advice to shoot the fuji again while the k100 was away. I forgot how good of a little camera it is.
08-14-2008, 12:10 AM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by kenyee Quote
For #5, your shutter speed is wayyyy too slow. 1/60th won't work with even the slightest breeze.
If you want to use 1/60th, use a flash to "freeze" the motion.

For tripod use, I usually frame w/o the tripod, then get the tripod in the right position to hold the camera. Still a pain at 1:1 though...
QuoteOriginally posted by kenyee Quote
Try to take a photo of a drop of water or high speed fan at 1/60th with a flash...
The flash's light period is a lot smaller than 1/180th of a sec...
Something new here for me too. I shall give it a try someday at 1/60 shutter with flash.

QuoteOriginally posted by Igilligan Quote
You are doing better than me Marcus... 8.27% keeper rate for me

Well, less than 10 % is quite a norm for keepers. When I was new to macro many months ago, I was frustrated, disappointed and was seeking for answers as to why most of my shots are out of focus....Took me many months to understand the concepts of macro shooting and I am still learning as I go along.

Hin, I love your last rose shot. Like I said your color/bokeh may even be a bit better than I am getting from my vivi 105, but part of that could be K10 vs k100.

Ps I got my K100d back today from the repair facility. It was only gone two weeks or so for the pixel remap. I have not checked it out yet, maybe tomorrow.

In the meantime I am posting for your critique some shots I took with the old
S6000 + raynox. You told me not to search out a film body and to just use the fuji... I am so glad I took your advice. The S6000 is still a very good p&s family cam and a true macro machine....

Fuji S6000 + raynox 250



thanks for the advice to shoot the fuji again while the k100 was away. I forgot how good of a little camera it is.
Igilligan,

Great sharpness across the frame. I have seen Raynox les with Panazonic fz camera that produces very nice images of spiders and tact sharp across the framein clubsnap, singapore.

For macro lenses, the sharpness is thin and to have sharpness across the frame, probably, have to shoot 1:2 or furthur away and have the pics cropped.


Shot this with A200 f4 macro and its almost 1:1 and not all across the frame is sharp. Taken with flash light


Took this with vivitar 105 and magnification is 1:2 and pics was cropped.


Shot this with voigtlander macro. I think wide open to have nicer bokeh. This lens produces very sharp images ie point of focus. Shot was shot at 1:2. At 1:1 magnification, very likely the sharpness will be at the centre and the eyes and wings will be out of focus(blurred)


handheld and flash was used. A200 macro f4 pics was cropped.


Shot this with macro A200 f4. The difference of macro A200 compares to others lens is the bokeh it produces. At f8, f11, this lens still produces creamy bokeh. The greenish background is actually the leaves a short distance away. Isolating the subject is easy with this lens. that makes this lens stand out.... creamy bokeh.

marcus young
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