[conniption]

I finally bought a 15 Limited. (Don't tell my wife). I plan to use it for landscapes and architecture and would greatly appreciate any tips or tricks any of you might have using this lens. I've never shot in ultra wide angle before, there may be a learning curve...

[Thagomizer]

I may soon be in the same position as you. I don't own it myself, but if things work out, there may be a 15mm in my future. Or maybe a Sigma 10-20. Still debating. While I'm trying to make up my mind, I've been checking out threads on the Forum including the never-ending "The 15mm Limited controls my mind".

[robthebloke]

Start by getting the horizon level! (And then have fun with crazy angles and perspectives)

[pepperberry farm]

if you are on the fence about an UWA for APS-C, keep the DA14 in the back of your mind.... it's a stunner....

[Saltwater Images]

Choosing an UWA can be a difficult choice. If you already have DA Limited's then the 15 is a logical choice. A lot of folks swear by the older DA 14. If you don't mind the 14's size and have room in your camera bag then you'll have a tough time deciding.

Then there's the Sigma 10-20 which is $100 cheaper that the HD DA 15 in Canada but you'll spend that $100 on an 82mm filter (the filter size for the Sigma is HUGE). If you plan on using an ultra wide angle as a walk around lens then the Sigma 10-20 f/3.5 may better suit your needs. The HD DA 15 is an outstanding piece of kit because it is small, light, easy to carry and delivers results. On it's own the HD DA 15 is not a walk around lens like it's sibling the 21. If you have the 21 it's perfect partner is the 15.

One of the nice things about having a bag full of HD DA Limiteds and a D FA 100 macro WR is that they all have a 49mm filter thread. Buy a good B+W variable ND filter and a good polarizer and you're all set. No adaptor rings needed, less accessories (but higher quality ones) in your kit.

[fwcetus]

Start by getting the horizon level!

These are from the (pre-HD) DA 15/4 Ltd -

[conniption]

Choosing an UWA can be a difficult choice. If you already have DA Limited's then the 15 is a logical choice. A lot of folks swear by the older DA 14. If you don't mind the 14's size and have room in your camera bag then you'll have a tough time deciding.

Then there's the Sigma 10-20 which is $100 cheaper that the HD DA 15 in Canada but you'll spend that $100 on an 82mm filter (the filter size for the Sigma is HUGE). If you plan on using an ultra wide angle as a walk around lens then the Sigma 10-20 f/3.5 may better suit your needs. The HD DA 15 is an outstanding piece of kit because it is small, light, easy to carry and delivers results. On it's own the HD DA 15 is not a walk around lens like it's sibling the 21. If you have the 21 it's perfect partner is the 15.

One of the nice things about having a bag full of HD DA Limiteds and a D FA 100 macro WR is that they all have a 49mm filter thread. Buy a good B+W variable ND filter and a good polarizer and you're all set. No adaptor rings needed, less accessories (but higher quality ones) in your kit.

Putting together a high quality, easily transported kit was my first consideration. I've had enough of monster lenses, except for sports. I think the DA 20-40 might be my next one, I have the 70. That should almost cover my travel needs.
I've read that filters have to be super slim or risk vignetting, not sure how true that is...

[Sandy Hancock]

You'll love the DA15

As you asked for advice, here are some random thoughts in no particular order:

Flare resistance is unparalleled. Don't be afraid to point it into the sun.
It focusses really close, so have fun with the wild perspective distortion that provides.
With landscapes, think about the angle of view, the foreground and the horizon.
f/8 - f/11 is where the magic happens.
Make sure your copy is properly centred.
I haven't had problems with filters, but I rarely use them.

[Thagomizer]

@pepperberry farm #4

I appreciate the suggestion on the 14mm. Not wanting to threadjack Conniption's request for 15mm advice, but I noted the 15 Limited and the Sigma 10-20 (older model) as I've found one of each available, used, at the same price. I'm hoping to sell some surplus gear at a local camera show this weekend and, if successful, buy one of them, assuming that they are still available. (If I were wildly successful, beyond reasonable expectations, I could afford both, but I'm not counting on that). I know that either way I go I'll end up with a good lens. It's a matter of deciding whether I want to go with the convenience of the zoom, or the small size of the prime. Either one is going to give me something I don't currently have. I haven't had anything wider than 18mm (kit zooms for my current K-S2 and my Canon 20D) since I shot with a Tokina 24mm on my Minolta X-700. I do some stitching now and then, but it would be nice to get the shot in one go. With any luck I'll be able to report a decision in a little less than a week's time.


I now return you to conniption's quest for advice on the care and feeding of the 15mm Limited.

[ramseybuckeye]

I finally bought a 15 Limited. (Don't tell my wife). I plan to use it for landscapes and architecture and would greatly appreciate any tips or tricks any of you might have using this lens. I've never shot in ultra wide angle before, there may be a learning curve...

Putting together a high quality, easily transported kit was my first consideration. I've had enough of monster lenses, except for sports. I think the DA 20-40 might be my next one, I have the 70. That should almost cover my travel needs.
I've read that filters have to be super slim or risk vignetting, not sure how true that is...

Congratulations, you've just obtained a fine lens, I've had mine a little over two years now and even though it's not my most used lens, it's one of my favorites, and it's definitely my best looking lens! I also have a Tamron 10-24 and a Rokinon 8mm fisheye, so it's not my only choice on an ultrawide. The 15 has beautiful rendering and it is not prone to flare. I occasionally use a CP filter and have not noticed any vignetting, in fact the filters fit right inside the built in hood and the hood extends quite a bit further, it would have to be a quite thick or long hood to vignette from what I see, but maybe I'm wrong.

You read a lot of threads for people wanting ultrawides for landscapes. They definitely work for some landscapes but not all. Notice thses three alll have some type of a foreground element, I personally think that's where and ultrawide shines..






You can also do closeups with nice detail, obviously with more depth of field than a longer lens. But as you see here you can still get some bokeh from close range.
-

[conniption]

Congratulations, you've just obtained a fine lens, I've had mine a little over two years now and even though it's not my most used lens, it's one of my favorites, and it's definitely my best looking lens! I also have a Tamron 10-24 and a Rokinon 8mm fisheye, so it's not my only choice on an ultrawide. The 15 has beautiful rendering and it is not prone to flare. I occasionally use a CP filter and have not noticed any vignetting, in fact the filters fit right inside the built in hood and the hood extends quite a bit further, it would have to be a quite thick or long hood to vignette from what I see, but maybe I'm wrong.

You read a lot of threads for people wanting ultrawides for landscapes. They definitely work for some landscapes but not all. Notice thses three alll have some type of a foreground element, I personally think that's where and ultrawide shines..






You can also do closeups with nice detail, obviously with more depth of field than a longer lens. But as you see here you can still get some bokeh from close range.
-

Is that first one processed? Those colors are fantastic! Nice use of foregrounding, I see what you mean

[pakinjapan]

For landscape shooting, accounting the field-curvature and practice both manual and auto focus with this lens. I guess it truth for any ultra-wide lens when you can get a very sharp center but 1/3 of the rest of the frame is a bit soft because the corners are moving back from the sharp focus in the center. (Hope my English is not too confusing.) It also is depending on your camera’s sensor. I used to use the green version with K-5 and corner sharpness was not problems if I make sure things in the center are sharp. But on K3 high-density sensor, it looks somewhat terrible. So usually on K-3, I focus at around 1/3 from the far corner if I want the whole frame equally sharp.
I often refer to this article when talk about field curvature on ultra-wide lens. Good read, check it out.

-Edit-
Here are 2 example of what I mentioned earlier about the field-curvature.
Sample1, I pre-focus on the road where the truck is. You can see center is very sharp but corner is not good. In this case, Truck (or whatever car happened to be there) is the main focus of the image, so I didn’t worry about the corner during shooting. But now that I look back, I should have focus at the white bridge behind so that can get sharper starbursts there and still keep the truck sharp + improve sharpness of the building on the right corner.



Sample2, I focus around area below letter “O” on the left hand. You can see the sharpness is better spread out. Center is not as sharp as in sample1. But the whole building is the main focus of the image, and it sharp enough (Model in the large panel center left is not sharp because it is not a still image.)

[mattt]

key to good wide angle shooting:

foreground
mid-ground
background

[conniption]

Thanks all for your advice!

[mikesbike]

@ Sandy Hancock: how does one determine if the copy is perfectly centered?