[bdery]

Still looking for time to test this properly (busy back-to-school period). My colleague who prints 3D stuff offered to print baffles for people interested, I'm passing along the info if anyone is interested. I'll play middleman to simplify things. I will sell (at cost) one of my two baffles once I finish testing, listing it in the marketplace, but if some people can't wait, drop me a note!

[Scorpio71GR]

Still looking for time to test this properly (busy back-to-school period). My colleague who prints 3D stuff offered to print baffles for people interested, I'm passing along the info if anyone is interested. I'll play middleman to simplify things. I will sell (at cost) one of my two baffles once I finish testing, listing it in the marketplace, but if some people can't wait, drop me a note!

I have updated my design to help make the baffle a better fit. I feel this updated design is going to fit into the mounting ring and lens better.

[Gerard_Dirks]

I have updated my design to help make the baffle a better fit. I feel this updated design is going to fit into the mounting ring and lens better.

Hello Scorpio71GR

I did some comparing of lenses with an cutout and I think the baffle you designed has to move about 5 degrees! I did the comparing with my HD PENTAX-D FA 1:2.8/24-70mm

When you look to the red arrow is where your baffle fits (left-bottom corner of the cutout) in the lensmount, at the beginning af the SDM Contact. I suggest it needs to be fit at the position of the screw of the SDM Contact (green arrow)

What do you think? Maybe the vignetting will be much more better ;-)

Regards
Gérard

[Scorpio71GR]

Hello Scorpio71GR

I did some comparing of lenses with an cutout and I think the baffle you designed has to move about 5 degrees! I did the comparing with my HD PENTAX-D FA 1:2.8/24-70mm

When you look to the red arrow is where your baffle fits (left-bottom corner of the cutout) in the lensmount, at the beginning af the SDM Contact. I suggest it needs to be fit at the position of the screw of the SDM Contact (red arrow)

What do you think? Maybe the vignetting will be much more better ;-)

Regards
Gérard

Yes that photo was a test. It was not the final one. I will post one of where I have the baffle now. It took a few tries for me to get it right.

[bdery]

What do you think? Maybe the vignetting will be much more better ;-)

It depends where the light travels. If you look at both images, the only difference is the height of the "rectangle". It might or might not be a problem, without knowing the light ray's paths it's hard to tell.

[Gerard_Dirks]

I think we need to sort out the position of the Bajonett versus the position of the sensor. I think the best ist do only connect a K-Bajonet to the K-1 and mark on the Bajonet where the sensor hit the bottom line.

I must look if I have a K-Bajonet somewhere, but I think @Scorpio71GR had down some testing an will publish this very soon.

[bdery]

I think we need to sort out the position of the Bajonett versus the position of the sensor. I think the best ist do only connect a K-Bajonet to the K-1 and mark on the Bajonet where the sensor hit the bottom line.

Just place the foot of the lens on it, place it on a flat surface and use a straight angle. Considering that the largest we can get is a full circle, we ca simply draw a 2x3 (scaled) rectangle inside that circle, referencing with the straight angle.

[sbh]

So I downloaded the 3D printing data and asked a friend for a printout. It's printed but I "screwed" up trying to remove the original baffle. I didn't get out one of those tiny screws. I ordered better screwdrivers, still waiting for them to arrive. Hopfully I didn't ruin the screw head too much.

To remove the baffle I don't need to remove the entire mount, but only those screws going towards the baffle, right?

[bdery]

To remove the baffle I don't need to remove the entire mount, but only those screws going towards the baffle, right?

Right. The screws holding the SDM contacts and the screws around the mount holding the baffle.

[Gerard_Dirks]

Does someone has a picture of the exact position of the baffle fitted in the 60-250 lens

I notify that the angle of the baffle need to be turn about 5 degrees!

[bdery]

Does someone has a picture of the exact position of the baffle fitted in the 60-250 lens

I notify that the angle of the baffle need to be turn about 5 degrees!

I'm not sure I understand what you mean, but I suggest you look at the article I published on pentaxforums' homepage for pointers.

[Gerard_Dirks]

I'm not sure I understand what you mean, but I suggest you look at the article I published on pentaxforums' homepage for pointers.

I mean thread #48!

[bdery]

I mean thread #48!

I'd still suggest looking at the article and following the advice there, it should be easier to line up everything that way

[Scorpio71GR]

Does someone has a picture of the exact position of the baffle fitted in the 60-250 lens

I notify that the angle of the baffle need to be turn about 5 degrees!

I have some photos of my baffle before I mounted in back in my camera. I will see if I can find them and post them.

[sbh]

I couldn't remove one of those tiny screws and gave up the first attempt because the screw head was almost entirely gone.

After reading the instructional article, it turns out that this exact screw doesn't need to be removed. So the second attempt went fine.

The 3D printed baffle was a tiny bit to wide at the end. It wouldn't go in all the way and sick out at the top about 3mm. I took apporx. 1/4 of the "wall thickness" off until it went in easily.

Imho it needs to be glued to the top ring, otherwise it might slide in to the lens when the zoom is extended and pointing downwards.