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07-19-2017, 08:51 PM   #16
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I can't speak for you, but 1/400 second at 300mm is pushing my handheld capabilities.
I'm not sure what's going on there. I certainly didn't notice this in the pictures you linked before. Is this the size you regularly print/display at?
Maybe some chromatic aberration? Have you tried adjusting for that? Could it be IS artifact?

07-19-2017, 09:34 PM   #17
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To me its very noticeable in two of the three 5.8 pictures--the concrete pillar and the seal at the beach. In the seal shot in the border between the rocks on the left and the water it is very noticeable and some kind of aberration. I don't really see it in the third 5.8 shot with the eagle. The concrete pillar at 8 seems to have cleared up, and the bees at 22 seem not to have the ghosting I see on the two 5.8 shots. I don't know if its a lens issues, or thats just the way it is, but I definitely see some of what you're seeing.
07-19-2017, 10:04 PM   #18
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For that pillar shot I had it propped against a bench it was just to show what I see when I mean to crop in on something, such as the seals or many of the bird shots I have. I want to say it happens anytime the subject is not brighter than anything behind it which makes it kinda useless... curious to see if anyone notices this in their shots or has a way to overcome it
07-19-2017, 11:19 PM - 1 Like   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by Greenneck Quote
working on a test chart to see about the focus of my lens. Im surprised to hear that its better to run it with out any filters. I had been thinking a cp or a haze filter might help some of the issues but it doesn't seem like anyone else is getting that glowing edge I keep seeing. Looks like my best best after the focus is to try shooting at f8 all the time and see if I can accept my results.
If my shots came out as sharp and weird edge free as that parrot I would be happy I think, thanks everyone.

Here is a cropped view of that edge just in case no one else is seeing what I see. Im not sure if this is soft focus/missed focus/ or if its how the light hits the subject causing the issue. If it is that last bit I dont exactly understand why it happens so I can avoid it...
That's exactly what I was talking about in my last post. LoCA.

A UV filter will soften & mush everything, so you'll notice aberration less... but it's like banging the healthy leg of a limping man so it's not so apparent that he's staggering.


Last edited by LensBeginner; 07-19-2017 at 11:25 PM.
07-20-2017, 01:45 AM - 2 Likes   #20
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I would go through a process of elimination. Take off any filter. Check that the lens is clean, both the front and rear element faces. Check for any internal haze or condensation by shining a bright light through it, eg a key ring LED torch. If all is fine take some more test shots.

Do a brick wall test - shoot a fairly distant planar object (brick wall is usually handy) with the camera on a tripod or solidly propped up and well lined up at right angle to the wall. Use expanded live view and manual focus to get the best sharpness at the centre. In live view also check that the edges are as best as you can in focus. Shoot with a shutter delay and at a few apertures. This will give you an idea of the best that you are going to get out of that particular lens.

You can also check for mis-alignment by shooting a distant contrasty object (tree on the horizon etc). Focus on it at the centre (again in live view to start with) and without refocusing tilt the camera so that the same object is consecutively in each of the four frame corners. Pixel peep and compare the shots, the corner shots should be equally good/bad.

Only If all is still well play with the AF adjust. Presumably you don't get this haziness problem with other lens(es) ?

If it is a new lens and you are not at all happy with the results then return it - otherwise it will bug you forever ...
07-20-2017, 03:01 AM - 2 Likes   #21
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I do ok with mine

@ 300mm hand held and cropped



with manual 2 x TC hand held effective 600mm


with manual 2 x TC on Tripod effective 600mm

and what kh1234567890 said
07-20-2017, 06:33 PM   #22
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I find that my 55-300 WR at 300 is a good test of my hand-holding technique: gently depressing the shutter button fully after giving the shake reduction time to kick in (2 seconds but definitely not instantly on my K5), holding the camera with my arms gently pressed into my sides, and being relaxed so no muscle-induced shaking. Also, in contrasty light definitely stop down to f8 or smaller, not wide open. On a tripod (and probably a monopod or park bench), make sure shake reduction is off since it will do more harm than good under those conditions. With all of that, my lens is better at 250mm than at 300mm, but the difference is not very great.
07-21-2017, 07:19 PM   #23
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I checked for decentering today, looks like it passed. I failed my brick wall test, shot in too dark of an area plus relied on av and it didnt come out well. Its much harder to tell how sharp it is against bricks than say a person/bird/ or more interesting subject. Ill have to try and do it when the weather clears in a few days

07-22-2017, 02:47 PM   #24
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You can download test screens to check focus too.


QuoteOriginally posted by Greenneck Quote
I checked for decentering today, looks like it passed. I failed my brick wall test, shot in too dark of an area plus relied on av and it didnt come out well. Its much harder to tell how sharp it is against bricks than say a person/bird/ or more interesting subject. Ill have to try and do it when the weather clears in a few days
02-18-2018, 03:23 AM   #25
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I'm not e pro-photographer, but I'm still using DA 55-300 f/4-5.8 for 6/7 years.
I think the same someone has writtem before... This lens is a cheaper target lenses but produces very good result if we shot in some conditions. First of all I suggest you to shot in RAW format and not with max aperture. Then you need to post-process your pics to eliminate some fringing and aberrations, but after that you will notice getting very nice pics, much more fine than native jpeg (in camera).
02-20-2018, 08:32 AM   #26
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I get a lot of soft images with telephoto lenses. I put it down to:

High ISO
Slow Shutter
Poor camera holding
Not quite right with the focus
Trying "too hard" to get good results from inadequate lighting

Experience will help. My brother would look at a photo and see the technique, I would just see a photo. My lenses need light and the images I see that are good also have light, Sun light. Drab days with slow tele lenses and moving subjects don't do justice. I'll only give up on a lens when I know I'm not the weak link, or it's heavy
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