Originally posted by normhead The increases in low light performance on newer bodies probably makes this a moot point. I don't use my walk around lenses indoors for the most part. If we are talking about an indoor lens, then we are talking a completely different set of specs. Now we are talking Tamron 17-50 ƒ2.8, but usually my 35 2.4 or FA 50 1.7. We have used the 18-135 indoors for family gatherings without issue. I use the 1.7 when it's actually dark, and I want a decent shutter speed. In my mind, expecting your low light lens and your walk around lens to be the same lens just isn't intuitive.
This topic engenders this type of suggestion.
"I need the 2.8 of the 17-70 wide open for events, but i don't need the constant 2.8 of the 17-50, 50-135. I don't need the 7:1 zoom range of the 18-135 over the 17-70, but I do need the zoom range of the 17-70 or 16-85 over the various 1x-50 2.8s." Is it me or is this just drawing lines in the sand?
My walk around decision is much more simple. I want the best zoom range with acceptable image quality. If it doesn't have that, in my mind it's not a walk around lens. Starting to mix in things like low light performance etc. are just confusing the issue. Camera companies make the different types of lenses, because they are different things. And I want the best weight/performance ratio, because, I'm going to be walking around carrying the lens and camera. That pretty much gets rid of 2.8 lenses. 2.8 zoom lenses are heavier than they need to be for people who normally are shooting ƒ5.6 to ƒ8 out doors, while walking around. One stop better low light performance is twice the weight. That is critical in your "walk around" thinking. Large apertures are not your friend if you are weight conscious.
The whole thing with a walk around lens is you don't know what you will encounter. That's different from an event lens. For some something like the Sigma 18-250 is the perfect walk around lens. That's not enough IQ for me but the 18-135 is. That's not good enough for some but the 17-70 is. That's not good enough for some but the 16-85 is. That's not good enough for some but the 28-105 on the K-1 is.
IN every case every increase in IQ, and the increases in IQ are at best minimal, cost you zoom range and flexibility. While it's interesting hearing where everyone draws the line, the OP still has to figure out what compromise he's comfortable with.
I suggest, going with the highest zoom range with an IQ you can live with. Some seem to be suggesting looking for the best combo of zoom range and low light performance (which I think is completely different category but could conceivably be what the OP is asking for.)
But I think it pays to understand, people are talking about different types of lenses in their recommendations. That's complicating the issue. But the OP can clarify by deciding what's really important to him.
If a fast aperture isn't an issue, that greatly simplifies your choices.
If a faster aperture is desired, that also greatly simplifies your choices.
That's where I'd make the first cut of my possible choices list.
After that, I'd look at the images of the various systems try and figure out where your personal IQ limit is. If an 18-250 is good enough for you, why would you waste your money on something else?
You have to be really picky about IQ to spend a lot of money on a pricey walk around lens with great low light performance etc.. That doesn't always produce the kinds of results people think it should. Many would be better off with an 18-250, they just read the lens charts and refuse to consider it. For some that's a mistake, for others it sin't. But choosing one or the other isn't a good ro abad decision, it's all about you and what makes you happy. My preference for the 18-135 really has no bearing on that. The 18135 could be the lens that makes you happiest, but more likely it will be one of the others, just because there are so many choices at least 4 more ways to go, and all else being equal, the chance of any one of them being for you, given 4 choices is about 25%. These lenses are not better than each other, these lenses are different from each other. Each one does things the others don't, ( eg. the 17-70 lets in more light than the 18-135 but is almost half the focal length) and does 85% of what the others do. Your decision should be based on what you want in that last 15%.
I understand what you're saying but like many of us, I have to pick a single lens to do multiple tasks due to costs. That's even more important now that I'm semi retired with considerable less income. The best case will be that Sigma will be able to fix my lens for less than a replacement. If the repair price is over $400, I will replace the lens. I'm inclined to get another Sigma 17-70 because I was happy with my old one and there is no question in my mind that it will do what I want. WR has been a non issue as I have shot in all kinds of conditions without problems.My gear travels in a Harley saddlebag half the year. If I have to replace the lens, the DA 16-85 is an option that wasn't available to me back when I bought the Sigma. For just an event lens, the Sigma 17-50/2.8 is currently on sale for $369.
Back when I bought the 17-70, the additional reach was my main motivation and at the time, it was cheaper than the 18-135 by over $100. As time has gone on, I have begun using the lens more for events as well as a walk around. I do make a little money on the side at events (emphasis on little). If I could afford it, I would just buy a K1 and 24-70/2.8 and be done with it but that's out of the question right now.