Which is the best Lens for Portraits Fotography

danielchtong · 09-06-2017, 02:32 PM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by clackers

It's too short for wildlife, so I would have thought that would be its natural use - bokehlicious outdoor portraits.

The lens guarantees a smooth bokeh even with smaller aperture
This one was taken at F:5.6

**clackers** · 09-06-2017, 03:49 PM

Originally posted by danielchtong

The lens guarantees a smooth bokeh even with smaller aperture
This one was taken at F:5.6

Yeah, I've got an FA*300 f4.5, I see you've got an A300 f4, they just obliterate backgrounds!

danielchtong · 09-07-2017, 01:25 PM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by clackers

Yeah, I've got an FA*300 f4.5, I see you've got an A300 f4, they just obliterate backgrounds!

I would not call them 'obliterating' background. It just melts the whole disturbing background into creamy colours which allows the subject to be focused.
I hardly ever use 300mm for portrait (A*300mm) . But even in this one at F:9, the background was blurred very effectively. The clutter of a typical street scene was beautified . This picture has zero worth if a shorter lens was used

I love the lens when it comes to bokeh

**clackers** · 09-07-2017, 04:17 PM - **2 Likes**

Originally posted by danielchtong

I would not call them 'obliterating' background

You speak as if it's a bad thing. The 300mm is so long all those distractions become abstracted to interesting, dreaming patterns:

danielchtong · 09-07-2017, 05:01 PM

Originally posted by clackers

You speak as if it's a bad thing. The 300mm is so long all those distractions become abstracted to interesting, dreaming patterns:

You just quoted part of the paragraph I wrote. Definitely you misunderstood

Originally posted by danielchtong

It just melts the whole disturbing background into creamy colours which allows the subject to be focused.

DaveInIA · 09-13-2017, 07:53 PM

As someone who has tried out fewer of the top choice lenses than most, I'd say a couple things:

(1) it depends on your subject & what they/you want out of the shot - flawless so it doesn't matter other than to focus on them over the background, capture their unique character, hide the what they want to hide, etc. (so unless you shoot the same subject or type of subject, there is no one right answer),

(2) you learn by trying to work with what you've got, and often can make more out of setting the shot up better (although some lenses seem to have pixie dust),

(3) when in doubt, buy a used older lens that you can flip with little loss of $ if it doesn't do what you want or you want to keep trying until you find nirvana for what you shoot,

(4) newer auto-focus is not necessarily > than older tech when it comes to portraiture or macro, as you will often prefer to shoot manual or not care if it is the fastest auto-focus (another plug for older, used glass), and

(5) I'm really jealous of those that have been able to try out and comment on more than one of the 77 vs. 85 vs. 55, etc.

DaveInIA · 09-14-2017, 10:46 PM

I love the examples of working with lenses not usually considered portrait to produce great shots with interesting backgrounds that compliment rather than take away from the subject. An object lesson in playing with what you've got and learning.

Still, on my APS-C K-3, wishing for some day out in the distant future for a 50-55mm soft lens: an APS-C version of the 85mm soft. I know you can monkey around in software. Just saying.

zapp · 09-20-2017, 08:57 AM

Originally posted by Gerard_Dirks

Hello

In a couple of weeks I have a portrait-shooting-weekend. The restriction is to work only with prime focus lenses. The Bodys I have available are K-1, K-3 & K-5iis

My problem is I have more as 2 dozen zoom lensen, but only 2 really new prime lenses (autofocus) and a couple of manuall lenses (A- & M- lenses, 40 years old )

What is the best lens?
- "SMC Pentax-D FA 100mm F2.8 Macro WR" for APS-C & FF
- "SMC Pentax-DA 50mm F1.8" with an "HD Pentax-DA 1.4x AW AF Rear Converter" only for APS-C

The first is a superb 100mm lens, the second will transfer to an 70mm lens with an Aperture of about 2.5. What would be your favourite combination?

I have also an "SMC Pentax-F 1.7x AF Adapter" but I really I have handling problems with the AutoFocus"

Unless you are after a certain effect of a lens or only want to work with a smaller prime, I see no point in limiting a workshop to prime only. Even worse limiting the workshop to a single prime lens.

OK, showing up with a 2.8/70-200 may look excessive (sizewise), but even A LOT of professional studio work is done with normal to light-tele zooms.

09-07-2017, 01:25 PM - 1 Like	#33
danielchtong Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Toronto Posts: 885	Originally posted by clackers Yeah, I've got an FA300 f4.5, I see you've got an A300 f4, they just obliterate backgrounds! I would not call them 'obliterating' background. It just melts the whole disturbing background into creamy colours which allows the subject to be focused. I hardly ever use 300mm for portrait (A300mm) . But even in this one at F:9, the background was blurred very effectively. The clutter of a typical street scene was beautified . This picture has zero worth if a shorter lens was used I love the lens when it comes to bokeh Last edited by danielchtong; 09-07-2017 at 01:32 PM.

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09-06-2017, 02:32 PM - 1 Like	#31
danielchtong Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Toronto Posts: 885	Originally posted by clackers It's too short for wildlife, so I would have thought that would be its natural use - bokehlicious outdoor portraits. The lens guarantees a smooth bokeh even with smaller aperture This one was taken at F:5.6

09-06-2017, 03:49 PM	#32
clackers Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Melbourne Photos: Albums Posts: 16,397	Originally posted by danielchtong The lens guarantees a smooth bokeh even with smaller aperture This one was taken at F:5.6 Yeah, I've got an FA*300 f4.5, I see you've got an A300 f4, they just obliterate backgrounds!

09-07-2017, 04:17 PM - 2 Likes	#34
clackers Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Melbourne Photos: Albums Posts: 16,397	Originally posted by danielchtong I would not call them 'obliterating' background You speak as if it's a bad thing. The 300mm is so long all those distractions become abstracted to interesting, dreaming patterns:

09-07-2017, 05:01 PM	#35
danielchtong Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Toronto Posts: 885	Originally posted by clackers You speak as if it's a bad thing. The 300mm is so long all those distractions become abstracted to interesting, dreaming patterns: You just quoted part of the paragraph I wrote. Definitely you misunderstood Originally posted by danielchtong It just melts the whole disturbing background into creamy colours which allows the subject to be focused.

09-13-2017, 07:53 PM	#36
DaveInIA New Member Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Iowa, U.S.A. Posts: 3	As someone who has tried out fewer of the top choice lenses than most, I'd say a couple things: (1) it depends on your subject & what they/you want out of the shot - flawless so it doesn't matter other than to focus on them over the background, capture their unique character, hide the what they want to hide, etc. (so unless you shoot the same subject or type of subject, there is no one right answer), (2) you learn by trying to work with what you've got, and often can make more out of setting the shot up better (although some lenses seem to have pixie dust), (3) when in doubt, buy a used older lens that you can flip with little loss of $ if it doesn't do what you want or you want to keep trying until you find nirvana for what you shoot, (4) newer auto-focus is not necessarily > than older tech when it comes to portraiture or macro, as you will often prefer to shoot manual or not care if it is the fastest auto-focus (another plug for older, used glass), and (5) I'm really jealous of those that have been able to try out and comment on more than one of the 77 vs. 85 vs. 55, etc.

09-14-2017, 10:46 PM	#37
DaveInIA New Member Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Iowa, U.S.A. Posts: 3	I love the examples of working with lenses not usually considered portrait to produce great shots with interesting backgrounds that compliment rather than take away from the subject. An object lesson in playing with what you've got and learning. Still, on my APS-C K-3, wishing for some day out in the distant future for a 50-55mm soft lens: an APS-C version of the 85mm soft. I know you can monkey around in software. Just saying.

09-20-2017, 08:57 AM	#38
zapp Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2011 Posts: 2,388	Originally posted by Gerard_Dirks Hello In a couple of weeks I have a portrait-shooting-weekend. The restriction is to work only with prime focus lenses. The Bodys I have available are K-1, K-3 & K-5iis My problem is I have more as 2 dozen zoom lensen, but only 2 really new prime lenses (autofocus) and a couple of manuall lenses (A- & M- lenses, 40 years old ) What is the best lens? - "SMC Pentax-D FA 100mm F2.8 Macro WR" for APS-C & FF - "SMC Pentax-DA 50mm F1.8" with an "HD Pentax-DA 1.4x AW AF Rear Converter" only for APS-C The first is a superb 100mm lens, the second will transfer to an 70mm lens with an Aperture of about 2.5. What would be your favourite combination? I have also an "SMC Pentax-F 1.7x AF Adapter" but I really I have handling problems with the AutoFocus" Unless you are after a certain effect of a lens or only want to work with a smaller prime, I see no point in limiting a workshop to prime only. Even worse limiting the workshop to a single prime lens. OK, showing up with a 2.8/70-200 may look excessive (sizewise), but even A LOT of professional studio work is done with normal to light-tele zooms.