Originally posted by krs Many of you must have a better eye for manual focus than I. I have an old M-50mm F1.7 lens and found that I was not getting the focus just right at times due to the DOF being so small.
Actually, the dirty secret of MF is that with a fast lens (f/2.8 or greater), the viewfinder is lying to you. At wide apertures, it shows you *more* DOF than the picture will actually show (and no, doing a DOF preview won't help!)
For instance, shooting a newspaper at an angle, th viewfinder might shows 20 lines of text in focus, but the picture might show only 5-10. So that does indeed make the job harder - things that look in focus in the viewfinder won't necessary be in focus in the image, unless you stop down. But not impossible. It just takes practice to learn how to "place" your subject within the zone of acceptable focus. I find I get results by making sure the subject and some of the area behind it is in focus but nothing in front of it is. If there is nothing in front of or behind the subejct to gauge, I just move back and forth until I'm convinced the subject is at the forward edge of just being about to go out of focus.
Your screen may be adjusted slightly differently - it's possible for you it would make more sense to put the subject toward the back, or toward the center, of the focus zone. But with experimentation and practice, you can get there.
Of course, now that you have th FA, that may be largely a non-issue. But I find even with my AF lenses, I use MF quite a bit, as I can't always force the camera to focus on exactly what I want it to focus on.
Quote: Another comment is that there are times that you want the additional "zoom" of the 50mm over the 35 mm - getting a little closer to the action in a gym or auditorium as an example, where the light is not great and a strong flash is not really an option.
True, although then, 50mm is generally still not nearly enough. 135's are often better, but harder to get much faster than f/2.8, which indeed might not be good enough when shooting *action*. Still, most activities - even sports - involve moments of relative stillness, and part of the skill is learning to time your shots then (while not settling only for the "boring" shots when people are completely still). At ISO 1600, f/2.8 is usually good enough for a shutter speed of 1/30, faster if you don't mind underexposing and then pushing it in PP. And most activities do involve pauses of at least that long.
That said, I'm sure martial arts are probably at the extremes here when people *are* moving - but still, when I've seen demonstrations, there are always moments of holding poses.