[abruzzi]

Check this thread from the other day - it lists cameras and has links to more resources. I think you want the Z-1 or PZ-1 for best use with lenses without aperture rings:

Thinking about getting a film SLR. Suggestions? Requirements within. - PentaxForums.com

sadly those are a fair bit larger, its also hard to tell build quality, but the pictures make it seem very plastic. I have an SF10 that was attached to a lens I bought, and the build on that, while it doesn't feel cheap, it didn't feel as indestructible as my Nikkormat FTN. For many years that was my main camera, and I'm hoping for something that size a build--thin metal bod, no AF, no auto winding, mostly manual.

Not directly.
In manual mode, activating the meter by a half button press I can set the Tv value. As the lens is automatic for the aperture the camera acts like it is in hyper-manual mode on a DSLR and reciprocates the aperture value.
The body is not coded either so I can over or under expose. In practise then yes the aperture can be controlled. Neat .

So what you're saying is us use it as shutter priority to set the aperture you want? And you when you say its not coded, you mean reading the film speed from the film? So you over/under expose by adjusting the film speed setting, or am I misunderstanding that?

[cyberjunkie]

I have an SF10 that was attached to a lens I bought, and the build on that, while it doesn't feel cheap, it didn't feel as indestructible as my Nikkormat FTN. For many years that was my main camera, and I'm hoping for something that size a build--thin metal bod, no AF, no auto winding, mostly manual.

The Nikkormat FTN was my first 35mm reflex.
The first K series are exactly that kind of cameras. Very solid and well built. All of them: K1000, KM, KX, K2, K2 DMD.
I still own the K2.
If you want a smallish, well built camera, go for the MX. It's the first Pentax camera i bought. It took the place of the Nikkormat.
I still own that black MX too, and still love the way it works. Together with the LX, best Pentax camera ever

cheers

Paolo

[Kevin B123]

So what you're saying is us use it as shutter priority to set the aperture you want? And you when you say its not coded, you mean reading the film speed from the film? So you over/under expose by adjusting the film speed setting, or am I misunderstanding that?

You are correct. I only mentioned film coding as it gives a more room for adjustment of exposure and not all bodies have that.

[johnha]

The Super-A will set the aperture electronically in TV and will display both aperture and shutter speed on LCDs in the finder (it also shows the shutter speed on the top-plate LCD). Obviously it will work in program too, but there's only one program. It has exposure compensation over +/- 2 EV by twisting the ISO dial (without changing the actual 'set speed), but this only works if you have ISO speeds to spare (i.e. if you're on 3200, you can't mimic 6400 etc - the dial won't go further). When exposure compensation is active, you get a warning in the finder. The Super-A does not have exposure lock/memory which is a pain. Although the body does have depth of field preview, with no aperture ring (or a KA lens on 'A') this always stops the lens down to the minimum aperture.

Of the 'properly built' cameras, only the Super-A will do this, the SF1(n)/SFX(n) will also do it, but these are going to be built similar to the SF10 (maybe a bit better). A more basic option is the P-5/P-50, this doesn't have TV mode, but offers two programs, depth (smaller apertures) & action (faster shutter speeds), this also has an exposure lock button but doesn't show the aperture in the finder.

The Z-1 despite it's build, is the only real option for fully spec'ed body with HyperManual, HyperProgram, meter lock, exposure compensation.... it responds just like a double dial DSLR.

[abruzzi]

thanks all. Sorry for the hijack. I found a nice condition super-program with a 28 2.8 A series lens for a decent price, so I bought it. I also ordered a few rolls from B&H since I'm not sure I can even get film locally. Anyway, I'm looking forward to it. I do have some F series lenses that will obviously work on this, but I also have a DA40 and DA70 that I've read work pretty well on full frame so they should be good on 35, and I love the size. (though I may look for some more A series lenses since most seem to be relatively inexpensive except the 50/1.2 and 85/1.4 which are crazy expensive)

[TER-OR]

I bought one because it's inexpensive used and I have the DA21.
I prefer the DA21, but I figure I'd prefer the DA40 on a FF camera. I think both pancakes render color well and have loads of contrast. Plus, you can slip them in your pocket.

No, it's not bad. It's not a macro and it's inexpensive. I think people who fall for the price fallacy might want to justify their 31mm or 55mm lenses, but they're just not the same things even if they're in a similar focal range.

I've read the mediocre reviews of the M40 online, but on a film camera how large are you really enlarging those images?

[builttospill]

Sorry for the off topic diversion, but I’ve wanted to find a film camera that would work with a number of my newer lenses without aperture rings, but the size and build quality of the later AF film cameras has turned me off. That super A looks perfect—metal construction, reasonably small size. Is it possible to set aperture on that camera when you don’t have an aperture ring?

I linked to a comment I made some time ago just four posts above your question in this thread. Click the link in post #54 and take a look at the list. It's not very big, but those are all the Pentax film cameras giving complete control of auto-aperture lenses.

The Super Program is a good one that still has a lot of the qualities of the older-style bodies.

[Piotrek K]

This lens is good for APSC, starting at f 4.5, and B&W. Great for adaptation to mirrorless also.

[jimr-pdx]

My 1999 Sierra backpack was done with smc-M 40/2.8 and Program Plus, and nothing else*. Missed a few shots no doubt, and stitched a few..but it was an easy carry

Drat - images are working now, but they do not do the lens justice. Must scan/shoot the negatives and do these right one day
1999 Sierra Trip summary

* edit - also brought a miniDV camcorder. The truly awful/tiny images were captured with that.

[jcdoss]

Here is my M40 copy on a K2. The quality refinish done by DC Shooter of course.

Beautiful! I sure with dcshooter was still in business. I'd love to have him work up some more of my lenses like that.

[mtl_pentaxian]

thanks all. Sorry for the hijack. I found a nice condition super-program with a 28 2.8 A series lens for a decent price, so I bought it. I also ordered a few rolls from B&H since I'm not sure I can even get film locally. Anyway, I'm looking forward to it. I do have some F series lenses that will obviously work on this, but I also have a DA40 and DA70 that I've read work pretty well on full frame so they should be good on 35, and I love the size. (though I may look for some more A series lenses since most seem to be relatively inexpensive except the 50/1.2 and 85/1.4 which are crazy expensive)

So, how did it all work out?

I was just bitten by the film bug when I rediscovered a Minolta Hi-Matic 11 rangefinder sitting in my closet.

The field of view of the Minolta’s fixed 45mm lens got me thinking that the slightly wider DA40 XS I have on my K-01 when paired with a well built Pentax 35mm film camera allowing some degree of in-camera aperture control would make a great kit.

My considerations led me to the same conclusion as you: the Super Program/Super-A. I sourced a nice-looking copy of the Super Program on eBay and should be receiving it next week.

[abruzzi]

So, how did it all work out?

I was just bitten by the film bug when I rediscovered a Minolta Hi-Matic 11 rangefinder sitting in my closet.

The field of view of the Minolta’s fixed 45mm lens got me thinking that the slightly wider DA40 XS I have on my K-01 when paired with a well built Pentax 35mm film camera allowing some degree of in-camera aperture control would make a great kit.

My considerations led me to the same conclusion as you: the Super Program/Super-A. I sourced a nice-looking copy of the Super Program on eBay and should be receiving it next week.

The madness has taken over. Honestly, I love the film process. Since I shot the first roll with the SuperProgram, I haven’t shot my digital camera at all. I started with the SP and a few lenses, I added an Nikon F4 with some Nikkor Lenses. After a bit with both cameras I realized I wanted less automation, not more. I got a MX to go with the Pentax lenses and a F2 to go with the Nikon lenses. I also wanted to give medium format a try so I started with a Pentax 67, then a Bronica ETRSi for a little more portability. I wanted to try M42, so I got an SV and a Spotmatic. I also got variously interested in rangefinder and other stuff and tried a few—Kodak Retina, Olympus XA, Canonet, Voightlander Bessa.

After almost one year, I am refocusing. Probably on three cameras—the MX for my 35mm SLR, the Bronica for medium format, and the Kodak for a pocketable rangefinder. (I will shoot the others occasionally)

I will warn anyone thinking of following my path into madness, that I have a high tolerance for having to (re)learn the film process—developing, darkroom printing, scanning—and a high tolerance for failure as a learning experience.

However all that aside, the SuperProgram is a great camera to start with. It can easily shoot the DA40 and DA70 in shutter-priority or program mode since it can electronically control the aperture (lenses without aperture rings are just permanently dialed to the A setting). Later film cameras can do that as well, but after the SuperProgram they started looking less like a classic SLR and more plastic. The SuperProgram does force you to interact with LCDs for the shutter speed selector and exposure readouts, but it’s not too bad.