M vs Takumar

Zewrak · 09-04-2008, 01:31 AM

The only lenses I can really say I have noticed any difference with is the 200/4. The PK SMC-M 200/4 outperform the Super Takumar and the 135/3.5 where the Super tak outperform the SMC-M.

Others I have tested is
28 - No winner
35 - No winner
50/1.4 vs SMC-M 50/1.7 - No winner
135/3.5 - Super Takumar outperform SMC-M and outperform Takumar 135/3.5
200/4 - SMC-M outperform Super Takumar

For focusing, first of all, get rid of the beep and the red square. Second get a splitscreen, I use the chinese one for 20$. Lastly preset the aperture and use the M/A switch to open/close. Alternativly, focus wide open and just turn the aperture ring until you get a good time in AV mode.

If you don't want a splitscreen, you will be able to focus more closed down, because the original screen will not black out the same way as the splitscreens does. However, even if it is brighter and you can focus at f11 if needed, you will not get proper focus.

So either have the trouble with dark screens or get OOF pictures, simple as that. And I am sure someone will come and tell you that it is possible to focus properly with the original screen, and they are right, it is possible. But you will have alot of blurry pictures. Thats a fact.

georgweb · 09-04-2008, 02:18 AM

Agreed to all remarks posted,
and two more thoughts (K100D with Takumars, valid only in the very centre of VF):

Visual focus (orig. screen) is best for me when focusing from infinity in, and then stop turning when you see a crisp picture. Same procedure with the red blink / beep, but rather watch out for the green hexagonal on the bottom of the viewfinder, this should be constantly lit for in-focus (using this with tele-lenses). I found this slight manual-backfocus tendency on other users' K100D's too.

Unfortunately every lens behaves different and therefore an excellent alternative is to go with the hyperfocal marks on the lens barrel. Should be wise to stay at least one stop short within the hyperfocal barrel-marks on a crop cam, and check the real full open infinity mark.

I hope this is no discouragement to anyone considering manual lenses, indeed the Pentax cameras are just excellent for this purpose once you're accustomed with the respective lens.

All the best, Georg (the other)

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09-04-2008, 01:31 AM	#16
Zewrak Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Nowhere, Sweden Photos: Gallery Posts: 654	The only lenses I can really say I have noticed any difference with is the 200/4. The PK SMC-M 200/4 outperform the Super Takumar and the 135/3.5 where the Super tak outperform the SMC-M. Others I have tested is 28 - No winner 35 - No winner 50/1.4 vs SMC-M 50/1.7 - No winner 135/3.5 - Super Takumar outperform SMC-M and outperform Takumar 135/3.5 200/4 - SMC-M outperform Super Takumar For focusing, first of all, get rid of the beep and the red square. Second get a splitscreen, I use the chinese one for 20$. Lastly preset the aperture and use the M/A switch to open/close. Alternativly, focus wide open and just turn the aperture ring until you get a good time in AV mode. If you don't want a splitscreen, you will be able to focus more closed down, because the original screen will not black out the same way as the splitscreens does. However, even if it is brighter and you can focus at f11 if needed, you will not get proper focus. So either have the trouble with dark screens or get OOF pictures, simple as that. And I am sure someone will come and tell you that it is possible to focus properly with the original screen, and they are right, it is possible. But you will have alot of blurry pictures. Thats a fact.

09-04-2008, 02:18 AM	#17
georgweb Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Berlin, Germany Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,386	Agreed to all remarks posted, and two more thoughts (K100D with Takumars, valid only in the very centre of VF): Visual focus (orig. screen) is best for me when focusing from infinity in, and then stop turning when you see a crisp picture. Same procedure with the red blink / beep, but rather watch out for the green hexagonal on the bottom of the viewfinder, this should be constantly lit for in-focus (using this with tele-lenses). I found this slight manual-backfocus tendency on other users' K100D's too. Unfortunately every lens behaves different and therefore an excellent alternative is to go with the hyperfocal marks on the lens barrel. Should be wise to stay at least one stop short within the hyperfocal barrel-marks on a crop cam, and check the real full open infinity mark. I hope this is no discouragement to anyone considering manual lenses, indeed the Pentax cameras are just excellent for this purpose once you're accustomed with the respective lens. All the best, Georg (the other)