Pentax DA* 60-250 vs. Tamron 70-200 on FF (K1) – which one would you pick?

zeitlos · 02-06-2018, 12:46 PM

Originally posted by bdery

Why?

On this side of the ocean, it cost me about 25-30$ USD to print the modified baffle.

Here in Germany, I asked some repair and assembly shops for cameras whether they can do it. Only one (so far) has said yes and successfully done it before. Well, not exactly from Germany but close (Austria). 140,- euro plus around 35 Euro for shipping. Makes about 175 Euro. Makes me think whether I should do it.

bdery · 02-07-2018, 05:52 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by zeitlos

Here in Germany, I asked some repair and assembly shops for cameras whether they can do it. Only one (so far) has said yes and successfully done it before. Well, not exactly from Germany but close (Austria). 140,- euro plus around 35 Euro for shipping. Makes about 175 Euro. Makes me think whether I should do it.

Have you looked at the article I wrote about that topic?

Going to a machine shop will indeed be expensive (and non reversible except if you use a blank piece of metal, but then, even more expensive).

You could (and should, I'd say) contact a 3D printing service and have it printed. I did it for a few people (I have a colleague who does that, with an excellent quality printer). It will be much less expensive and the drawings are in the article.

Originally posted by normhead

Hey bdery, I've been thinking of taking out the baffle, using a 1/4 to/1/2 inch dremel thingy to expand just the corners and putting it back in. Does that have any hope of working? I guess the thing is, mine only vignettes a little bit in the corners, I was thinking that way, I still get the benefit of some of the masking for when I'm using the lens on APS-c, while removing the corner vignetting for full frame.

Same advice as above: I suggest 3D printing it. The article shows that it's possible to line up the rectangle opening created by grinding the corners, but it's going to be a messy job, and you will get slightly curved corners even with a small diameter tool.

See the article, I believe all 60-250's vignette only "a bit" (impressive, all things considered). Cutting out just the corners (or printing an adequate design to mimic that) yields only a slight increase in resolution but does not improve vignetting as much as removing the whole baffle.

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02-06-2018, 12:46 PM	#31
zeitlos Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: In the middle of Bavaria - Germany Posts: 282 Original Poster	Originally posted by bdery Why? On this side of the ocean, it cost me about 25-30$ USD to print the modified baffle. Here in Germany, I asked some repair and assembly shops for cameras whether they can do it. Only one (so far) has said yes and successfully done it before. Well, not exactly from Germany but close (Austria). 140,- euro plus around 35 Euro for shipping. Makes about 175 Euro. Makes me think whether I should do it.

02-07-2018, 05:52 AM - 1 Like	#32
bdery Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Quebec city, Canada Photos: Gallery Posts: 9,357	Originally posted by zeitlos Here in Germany, I asked some repair and assembly shops for cameras whether they can do it. Only one (so far) has said yes and successfully done it before. Well, not exactly from Germany but close (Austria). 140,- euro plus around 35 Euro for shipping. Makes about 175 Euro. Makes me think whether I should do it. Have you looked at the article I wrote about that topic? Going to a machine shop will indeed be expensive (and non reversible except if you use a blank piece of metal, but then, even more expensive). You could (and should, I'd say) contact a 3D printing service and have it printed. I did it for a few people (I have a colleague who does that, with an excellent quality printer). It will be much less expensive and the drawings are in the article. Originally posted by normhead Hey bdery, I've been thinking of taking out the baffle, using a 1/4 to/1/2 inch dremel thingy to expand just the corners and putting it back in. Does that have any hope of working? I guess the thing is, mine only vignettes a little bit in the corners, I was thinking that way, I still get the benefit of some of the masking for when I'm using the lens on APS-c, while removing the corner vignetting for full frame. Same advice as above: I suggest 3D printing it. The article shows that it's possible to line up the rectangle opening created by grinding the corners, but it's going to be a messy job, and you will get slightly curved corners even with a small diameter tool. See the article, I believe all 60-250's vignette only "a bit" (impressive, all things considered). Cutting out just the corners (or printing an adequate design to mimic that) yields only a slight increase in resolution but does not improve vignetting as much as removing the whole baffle.