Win a Pentax Limited Lens: Raffle Now Live!

Ronald Oakes · 03-09-2018, 04:25 PM - **2 Likes**

This is a lens I got from Goodwill today for $94 shipped.
I just took 7 test images and though maybe I scored a decent keeper lens ?
I used the stump across the road as my target because it represented a possible source of Flair and Fringing with the sunlight hitting it.

I'm quite pleased at f 5.6 , 8 , and 11

With a minor amount of PP this should be a quite good lens.

Tripod , hood , SR off , 2sec timer , straight out of camera

Descending order
f4
f8
f16

Whats the PF verdict ? Thoughts ? I'm pretty excited about this lens.......lol.

PS....I may pull this thread as images cant be viewed full size......sorry.

Attached Images

View Picture EXIF

View Picture EXIF

Last edited by Ronald Oakes; 03-10-2018 at 03:04 PM.

Wild Mark · 03-09-2018, 04:39 PM - **1 Like**

It behaves much like the models produced after this one.

Fringing is prominant wide open. Realatively easy fix in post processing (toggle fringing slider in affinity photo or lightroom)
Contrast is low due to poor \ early coatings. Relatively easy fix in post processing (up contrast and saturation)

I suspect a parent sharpness will improve after contrast adjustment is made.

If you make a profile for the above then post processing will be fast.

Otherwise a great lens. Have fun in post processing. Ps you will learn lots about your lens when you edit in post processing so give it a go. I find these learnings help me in the taking of the photo.

**UncleVanya** · 03-09-2018, 05:31 PM - **1 Like**

Link from Flickr and put the files there for larger size options.

Ronald Oakes · 03-09-2018, 06:22 PM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by Wild Mark

It behaves much like the models produced after this one.

Fringing is prominant wide open. Realatively easy fix in post processing (toggle fringing slider in affinity photo or lightroom)
Contrast is low due to poor \ early coatings. Relatively easy fix in post processing (up contrast and saturation)

I suspect a parent sharpness will improve after contrast adjustment is made.

If you make a profile for the above then post processing will be fast.

Otherwise a great lens. Have fun in post processing. Ps you will learn lots about your lens when you edit in post processing so give it a go. I find these learnings help me in the taking of the photo.

I really only plan on using this lens when I go camping. There always seems to de some Critter around it will work wonders on.

My skill level is very poor when it comes to PP. However I'm taking some classes at the Camera Guild next month , and also have a good mentor right down the road that is much more experienced than myself. I'm very slowly learning.

When I sit down and go to into Lightroom , there is a whole bunch of frustration , then I just get aggravated and quit most of the time......lol.

---------- Post added 03-09-18 at 07:23 PM ----------

Originally posted by UncleVanya

Link from Flickr and put the files there for larger size options.

Is that one of my Best options ?

Wild Mark · 03-09-2018, 06:53 PM - **1 Like**

Definitely do the course. It will demystify the program and you will then relish the power of post processing. Your images will be greatly improved by this.

**GUB** · 03-09-2018, 07:22 PM - **2 Likes**

Regarding the testing the trick is to use 100% ctops. In this comparison I did the other day after your post I took 400 x 700 pixel crops and stuck them on a 1200 x 800 base. Left room for the captions on top. I did a terrible job of the f8 shots so only have these wide open shots to go by. But it seems like my Model 2 fringes worse than my model 1.

**UncleVanya** · 03-09-2018, 07:40 PM - **2 Likes**

100% crop works. Multiple locations per file. Corners centers etc.

Ronald Oakes · 03-10-2018, 06:54 AM

Originally posted by GUB

Regarding the testing the trick is to use 100% ctops. In this comparison I did the other day after your post I took 400 x 700 pixel crops and stuck them on a 1200 x 800 base. Left room for the captions on top. I did a terrible job of the f8 shots so only have these wide open shots to go by. But it seems like my Model 2 fringes worse than my model 1.

Looking at your crops , Version 2 looks best to me.... ?
Ive also been contemplating if a larger or more "significant" Hood would be in order on this lens ?
The slide out hood is ok , but mine droops a bit and is still rather minimal .
The minor drooping part can easily be remedied my a rubber lens-band.

**marcusBMG** · 03-10-2018, 09:56 AM - **1 Like**

Lens looks good. These 1960's tp's are always better stopped down. f8 tends to be pretty optimal. The advantage of f4 is the brightness of the VF. Taks, being M42, have the advantage of being able to use Av stop down metering mode as opposed to "green buttoning" with an "M" or "K" 300mm, but the disadvantage that stopping down has to be done manually at the moment of taking the pic.

Above f11 diffraction sets in (link is to the excellent "Cambridge in Colour" web site, it tends to the technical but in a nutshell physics means that the image deteriorates with ever smaller aperture). Pretty much never use f16 and up.
Fundamentals of tp photography: 1st is focus, tp's have a very narrow depth of field, so it's all about nailing focus, results reflect practice, good technique and attention to how well your focus tools on your camera work/are used. #1 check that the VF diopter adjust is spot on. #2 consider a VF magnifier (I use one all the time) #3 familiarise with live view, use magnified LV to corroborate your visual estimations.
Second is reducing shake and vibrations. Prioritise upping the asa to get decent shutter speeds over worries about noise. Note that the trad 1/focal length is off for apsc - factor in the "crop factor" ie 1/450th (1.5 x 300) and faster. And if you are cropping the image more later then that factors in too. My go to is a bean bag, use it on any and every available support. And I use a monopod a lot. And a remote shutter.
Practice makes well if not perfect then better results. Have fun.

**GUB** · 03-10-2018, 12:16 PM

Did a f8 test yesterday. The Model 2 came out definitely ahead and just ahead of the Russian Tair. Lots of hit and miss doing this though. Did another test into landscape further than the background here and the Tair won. Guessing the Tak2 is not quite hitting infinity.
Pentax would not have put extra glass in the Model 2 if it wasn't for significant gain.

Ronald Oakes · 03-10-2018, 02:37 PM

GUB....I run into quite a few manual lenses that don't quite hit infinity. There is nothing worse than having a Lens that just isn't quite there. More than once I sent a lens off to Eric to have the hard stop adjusted to a hair past the oo hard stop. I would say your Version 2 has it going on Good !

**GUB** · 03-10-2018, 02:49 PM - **1 Like**

Yes those goats would have been 200 - 300 metres away so would have been very close to infinity. I think I had it hard up to the stop for it so maybe just a smidgin off focus for this shot which would be about 1.4 Km away. Apart from say moon shots it wouldn't often be an issue. Yes it is quite common for the old glass to not quite hit infinity - fairly easy to adjust most of them though.

Ronald Oakes · 03-10-2018, 03:13 PM

Mainly interested in using this lens at much closer distances. Playing on my patio at about 25' earlier today.
Very pleased so far between 5.6 and 16 at my target range.
I have no idea my crop ratio on this one , but for me its plenty good for what I need.

**twilhelm** · 03-10-2018, 03:29 PM

It looks like you have a good copy, very similar to my K300 f/4. A bit low in contrast which is easily remedied in post (I use rawtherapee now) but very sharp from 5.6 and up. Mine fringes quite severely when I have a bright sky for background, but that’s to be expected for the age.

Enjoy the lens, looks like it was a great find!

Ronald Oakes · 03-10-2018, 03:43 PM

Originally posted by twilhelm

It looks like you have a good copy, very similar to my K300 f/4. A bit low in contrast which is easily remedied in post (I use rawtherapee now) but very sharp from 5.6 and up. Mine fringes quite severely when I have a bright sky for background, but that’s to be expected for the age.

Enjoy the lens, looks like it was a great find!

This lens doesn't much like bright daylight at all.....and a lot of bright sky ? Forget it....lol.
However I realized that before getting it. Yes....sharpness is best f8-f11 but image doesn't deteriorate much until after f22

03-10-2018, 06:54 AM	#8
Ronald Oakes Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: Virginia Posts: 1,585 Original Poster	Originally posted by GUB Regarding the testing the trick is to use 100% ctops. In this comparison I did the other day after your post I took 400 x 700 pixel crops and stuck them on a 1200 x 800 base. Left room for the captions on top. I did a terrible job of the f8 shots so only have these wide open shots to go by. But it seems like my Model 2 fringes worse than my model 1. Looking at your crops , Version 2 looks best to me.... ? Ive also been contemplating if a larger or more "significant" Hood would be in order on this lens ? The slide out hood is ok , but mine droops a bit and is still rather minimal . The minor drooping part can easily be remedied my a rubber lens-band. Last edited by Ronald Oakes; 03-10-2018 at 06:59 AM.

03-10-2018, 09:56 AM - 1 Like	#9
marcusBMG Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: North Wales Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,870	Lens looks good. These 1960's tp's are always better stopped down. f8 tends to be pretty optimal. The advantage of f4 is the brightness of the VF. Taks, being M42, have the advantage of being able to use Av stop down metering mode as opposed to "green buttoning" with an "M" or "K" 300mm, but the disadvantage that stopping down has to be done manually at the moment of taking the pic. Above f11 diffraction sets in (link is to the excellent "Cambridge in Colour" web site, it tends to the technical but in a nutshell physics means that the image deteriorates with ever smaller aperture). Pretty much never use f16 and up. Fundamentals of tp photography: 1st is focus, tp's have a very narrow depth of field, so it's all about nailing focus, results reflect practice, good technique and attention to how well your focus tools on your camera work/are used. #1 check that the VF diopter adjust is spot on. #2 consider a VF magnifier (I use one all the time) #3 familiarise with live view, use magnified LV to corroborate your visual estimations. Second is reducing shake and vibrations. Prioritise upping the asa to get decent shutter speeds over worries about noise. Note that the trad 1/focal length is off for apsc - factor in the "crop factor" ie 1/450th (1.5 x 300) and faster. And if you are cropping the image more later then that factors in too. My go to is a bean bag, use it on any and every available support. And I use a monopod a lot. And a remote shutter. Practice makes well if not perfect then better results. Have fun. Last edited by marcusBMG; 03-10-2018 at 10:02 AM.

03-10-2018, 02:49 PM - 1 Like	#12
GUB Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Wanganui Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,760	Yes those goats would have been 200 - 300 metres away so would have been very close to infinity. I think I had it hard up to the stop for it so maybe just a smidgin off focus for this shot which would be about 1.4 Km away. Apart from say moon shots it wouldn't often be an issue. Yes it is quite common for the old glass to not quite hit infinity - fairly easy to adjust most of them though. Attached Images

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03-09-2018, 04:39 PM - 1 Like	#2
Wild Mark Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Newcastle Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,954	It behaves much like the models produced after this one. Fringing is prominant wide open. Realatively easy fix in post processing (toggle fringing slider in affinity photo or lightroom) Contrast is low due to poor \ early coatings. Relatively easy fix in post processing (up contrast and saturation) I suspect a parent sharpness will improve after contrast adjustment is made. If you make a profile for the above then post processing will be fast. Otherwise a great lens. Have fun in post processing. Ps you will learn lots about your lens when you edit in post processing so give it a go. I find these learnings help me in the taking of the photo.

03-09-2018, 05:31 PM - 1 Like	#3
UncleVanya Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2014 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 28,460	Link from Flickr and put the files there for larger size options.

03-09-2018, 06:22 PM - 1 Like	#4
Ronald Oakes Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: Virginia Posts: 1,585 Original Poster	Originally posted by Wild Mark It behaves much like the models produced after this one. Fringing is prominant wide open. Realatively easy fix in post processing (toggle fringing slider in affinity photo or lightroom) Contrast is low due to poor \ early coatings. Relatively easy fix in post processing (up contrast and saturation) I suspect a parent sharpness will improve after contrast adjustment is made. If you make a profile for the above then post processing will be fast. Otherwise a great lens. Have fun in post processing. Ps you will learn lots about your lens when you edit in post processing so give it a go. I find these learnings help me in the taking of the photo. I really only plan on using this lens when I go camping. There always seems to de some Critter around it will work wonders on. My skill level is very poor when it comes to PP. However I'm taking some classes at the Camera Guild next month , and also have a good mentor right down the road that is much more experienced than myself. I'm very slowly learning. When I sit down and go to into Lightroom , there is a whole bunch of frustration , then I just get aggravated and quit most of the time......lol. ---------- Post added 03-09-18 at 07:23 PM ---------- Originally posted by UncleVanya Link from Flickr and put the files there for larger size options. Is that one of my Best options ?

03-09-2018, 06:53 PM - 1 Like	#5
Wild Mark Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Newcastle Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,954	Definitely do the course. It will demystify the program and you will then relish the power of post processing. Your images will be greatly improved by this.

03-09-2018, 07:40 PM - 2 Likes	#7
UncleVanya Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2014 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 28,460	100% crop works. Multiple locations per file. Corners centers etc.

03-10-2018, 02:37 PM	#11
Ronald Oakes Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: Virginia Posts: 1,585 Original Poster	GUB....I run into quite a few manual lenses that don't quite hit infinity. There is nothing worse than having a Lens that just isn't quite there. More than once I sent a lens off to Eric to have the hard stop adjusted to a hair past the oo hard stop. I would say your Version 2 has it going on Good !

03-10-2018, 03:29 PM	#14
twilhelm Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Florida Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,369	It looks like you have a good copy, very similar to my K300 f/4. A bit low in contrast which is easily remedied in post (I use rawtherapee now) but very sharp from 5.6 and up. Mine fringes quite severely when I have a bright sky for background, but that’s to be expected for the age. Enjoy the lens, looks like it was a great find!

03-10-2018, 03:43 PM	#15
Ronald Oakes Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: Virginia Posts: 1,585 Original Poster	Originally posted by twilhelm It looks like you have a good copy, very similar to my K300 f/4. A bit low in contrast which is easily remedied in post (I use rawtherapee now) but very sharp from 5.6 and up. Mine fringes quite severely when I have a bright sky for background, but that’s to be expected for the age. Enjoy the lens, looks like it was a great find! This lens doesn't much like bright daylight at all.....and a lot of bright sky ? Forget it....lol. However I realized that before getting it. Yes....sharpness is best f8-f11 but image doesn't deteriorate much until after f22

Takumar 300mm f4 (version 2) .....Initial test Images

Win a Pentax Limited Lens: Raffle Now Live!