Originally posted by BigMackCam No need to apologise - questions are good
With the Sigma 17-50 f/2.8, the widest aperture setting of f/2.8 is available at all focal lengths from 17 to 50mm inclusive (it's therefore described as a "constant aperture" lens). Furthermore, the sharpness of the lens - even wide open at f/2.8 - is good right across the frame. As such, you can actually use the lens at f/2.8 and get decent photos, and by f/5.6 the image quality is really very good indeed.
The Sigma 18-300 has a variable aperture. At 18mm, the maximum available aperture is f/3.5, but as you zoom in to longer focal lengths, this quickly reduces to f/6.3. Worse still, if you use the lens wide open at those maximum apertures, image sharpness - generally, but especially in the borders and corners of the frame - isn't good. In all honesty, you need to shoot it at f/8 - f/11 to get decent frame-wide image quality. However, at these apertures the lens is letting far less light than the Sigma 17-50 at f/2.8 or f/5.6, which means you'll need to use higher ISO settings on the camera, resulting in photos with a lot of noise.
Does that make sense?
I appreciate all your information. Mostly it does make sense. I do want to know why the sharpness is reduced when the aperture is wide open? Is that because it gets washed out by the light? I guess I was not sure how important it was because with past zoom lenses, it seemed that the picture often came out better when I did not leave it wide open when zoomed in. Therefore, I felt the option to have that fixed aperture was nice, but not exactly necessary.
---------- Post added 05-26-18 at 11:05 PM ----------
Originally posted by normhead Just reading over the thread.....
the 18-135 is the best cheaper alternative. Especially with it's pseudo macro capability.
The Sigma 17-50 is your best indoor, low light choice. I've crunched the numbers on this a million times and basically I don't really like Sigma, so this is hard for me to say.
I'd pair it with a 55-300 of some kind.
17-50, 55 300 and you 35 2.4 are a great team although I'd probably ad the 50 1.8 as well for really low light. That would be all the kit you'd need until you decide to get into real specialty items. It should all fit into one relatively small easy to carry shoulder bag.
I have two questions. What do you mean by pseudo macro capability? Why is the 18 to 135 mm considerably lighter than the 17 to 70 mm ones? Material? Something that affects quality that I should be concerned about?
---------- Post added 05-26-18 at 11:06 PM ----------
Originally posted by Scorpio71GR The DFA24-70 is a full frame lens. You are paying a lot more money for a lens that covers a 24X36mm sensor. A crop sensor lens is much more affordable and more compact. Right a Sigma 17-50 is about $369 and the DFA24-70 is over a $1000. Also 24mm on a crop sensor camera is way too narrow for a lot of shots. SDM is the Pentax trademark name for their Supersonic Drive Motors that in their high end lens. All DA* lenses feature these in lens motors rather traditional screwdrive. Some feature both. In lens motors are virtually silent making them very appealing for indoor work.
I own both the DA18-135 and the HD16-85. One thing everyone needs to do with all UWA (Ultra Wide Angle) lenses is test for decentering and for if any focus adjustment is needed. It sounds like your 16-85 may have been decentered. I have seen a few of them. This can happen with any lens. Keep in mind all the new DFA lenses use the HD coatings. I went through 3 Sigma 8-16's and 2 Tamron 70-200's before I had a good one of each. The 18-135 is still my goto lens if I can only take one lens. For all of its weaknesses it is still one of the best all around lenses for Pentax. The DFA28-105 is sharper overall but does cover the equivalent focal range of 28-200mm on full frame. I however would want to rely on the 18-135 for indoor photography unless I was using a flash.
Silly me. I did not realize that it was a full frame lens. Eliminated.
---------- Post added 05-26-18 at 11:07 PM ----------
Originally posted by mikesbike Several points-
There is no such thing as a fast, f/2.8 zoom lens with a range of 18-100mm- not even close. The DFA 24-70mm does not come close because 24mm is only modestly WA on APS-C, and not comparable to 18mm, while 70mm is a ways behind 100mm. However, there is much importance as to which camera body you will be using. I refer to the fact that a KP or a K-70 body, which are capable of outstanding performance at higher ISO settings, can effectively achieve results at f/4 or higher comparable to what can be had with f/2.8 on other bodies, lens quality level otherwise being similar.
It is also important, in view of the above facts, to zero in on the FLs where low-light work is mostly done. If you need that over the entire 18-100mm range, you'll need two fast zoom lenses. For that, I use the excellent DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, which is a great lens having top-flight construction and WR, and more recently combined with a Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 EX DC, which I also highly recommend. They are great on my K-5 IIs, my K-S2, or even better on my KP! But the KP can do very well with f/4 or greater settings, which is very good, since then these lenses are not wide open, so their high quality level is elevated even more, and with the KP detail and quality are well-preserved at a greater ISO while noise is reduced.
You might also, for a budget compromise, consider a Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8-4, if 70mm is enough and you can get by with f/4 max in the tele range.
Appreciate it!