M42 adapter with flange for aperture pin

**kernos** · 06-18-2018, 04:37 PM

I've had no problem with the kipon adapter but was shocked that the price is nearly double what I paid. Far as I can tell every pin is fully depressed and there was never a problem with fit. Also, no light leaks on narrow based lenses.

**BigMackCam** · 06-18-2018, 05:01 PM

Originally posted by kernos

I've had no problem with the kipon adapter but was shocked that the price is nearly double what I paid. Far as I can tell every pin is fully depressed and there was never a problem with fit. Also, no light leaks on narrow based lenses.

If your Kipon adapter mounts flush and has the cut-outs to allow a tool for removal, then it's just as susceptible as other adapters to light leaks. That's the main trouble spot. But unless you have reasonably strong light sources in front of (and, even more so, in front of but at an angle to) the camera, it's usually not a problem...

**clickclick** · 06-20-2018, 06:09 PM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by vonBaloney

Please post back here when you get it and tell us if it is any good.

It arrived today, and given it's origin, I think it was pretty good time. It is made of black anodized aluminum, and is a tight fit requiring use of the included key. Like other adapters mentioned, the depth of the flange is such that it may or may not press the pin far enough to fully actuate the aperture. I bought this for an odd Vivitar (55mm f2.1 - think must be a Cosina origin) a friend gave me to check out. It doesn't depress the pin far enough, and I'll have to make a shim. The width of the shoulder the pin hits is narrow, and with this lens, it just barely hits the pin. While not needed since it has an auto/man switch, I put my Takumar 3.5/35 on it to see how it works. The pin is fully depressed, and the engagement is more solid - the Takumar pin must be a hair closer to the outer edge of the lens. Finally, the adapter sits just a paper's thickness below the height of the camera's flange. While this style adapter is not needed since it has no pin, a lens like my Meyer Optik Orestegor 4/200, that tapers to a narrow base, might loose a minuscule amount of close focus range. Probably not even detectable unless doing macro work. I think in the end, I'd say I'm neutral on it. It sounds like the amount of pin depression is typical compared to other adapters of this type. I've never handled another adapter of this type, so I don't have anything to compare the shoulder width - I'm sure keeping it narrow is desirable to avoid vignetting with certain lenses. The black anodized finish is nice to reduce reflections. That may be it's best feature.

Hope this helps someone.

vonBaloney · 06-20-2018, 07:35 PM

Originally posted by clickclick

It arrived today, and given it's origin, I think it was pretty good time. It is made of black anodized aluminum, and is a tight fit requiring use of the included key. Like other adapters mentioned, the depth of the flange is such that it may or may not press the pin far enough to fully actuate the aperture. I bought this for an odd Vivitar (55mm f2.1 - think must be a Cosina origin) a friend gave me to check out. It doesn't depress the pin far enough, and I'll have to make a shim. The width of the shoulder the pin hits is narrow, and with this lens, it just barely hits the pin. While not needed since it has an auto/man switch, I put my Takumar 3.5/35 on it to see how it works. The pin is fully depressed, and the engagement is more solid - the Takumar pin must be a hair closer to the outer edge of the lens. Finally, the adapter sits just a paper's thickness below the height of the camera's flange. While this style adapter is not needed since it has no pin, a lens like my Meyer Optik Orestegor 4/200, that tapers to a narrow base, might loose a minuscule amount of close focus range. Probably not even detectable unless doing macro work. I think in the end, I'd say I'm neutral on it. It sounds like the amount of pin depression is typical compared to other adapters of this type. I've never handled another adapter of this type, so I don't have anything to compare the shoulder width - I'm sure keeping it narrow is desirable to avoid vignetting with certain lenses. The black anodized finish is nice to reduce reflections. That may be it's best feature.

I get light leaks with my Meyer 200/4 (and similar narrow base screw-mount lenses) with a regular non-pin-depressing m42 adapter (especially a generic one where I've removed the spring) -- does it take care of that problem? On the Meyer, I've solved it with a big rubber washer which I've detailed on this forum before, but some smaller lenses that doesn't work as well. A more light-tight but flush adapter would be welcome for those narrow lenses.

**clickclick** · 06-21-2018, 08:36 AM

Originally posted by vonBaloney

I get light leaks with my Meyer 200/4 (and similar narrow base screw-mount lenses) with a regular non-pin-depressing m42 adapter (especially a generic one where I've removed the spring) -- does it take care of that problem? On the Meyer, I've solved it with a big rubber washer which I've detailed on this forum before, but some smaller lenses that doesn't work as well. A more light-tight but flush adapter would be welcome for those narrow lenses.

I have been plugging those holes with Mortite:

Mortite Caulking Cord | Frost King® Weatherization Products

The only downside to this is it does leave a residue, so if you use it directly on the camera's flange, you will need to clean the residue off. My solution to that with my Meyer Optik is using one of the adapters that has the external flange like this:

FotodioX M42 Lens to Pentax K-Mount Camera Mount M42-PK-V1 B&H

Now I will note in this description it says it will maintain infinity focus. Not sure how, so I wouldn't bet on it. Mine is not a Fotodiox brand, so perhaps Fotodiox has it somehow recessed to do so, but not sure how that would work. Regardless, I leave this style adapter on my Meyer Optik so I don't have to worry about cleaning off the Mortite residue. With this setup, I have focus on all but the farthest subjects, at which point I'm using a different lens anyway.

vonBaloney · 06-21-2018, 09:04 AM

Originally posted by clickclick

I have been plugging those holes with Mortite:

Mortite Caulking Cord | Frost King® Weatherization Products

The only downside to this is it does leave a residue, so if you use it directly on the camera's flange, you will need to clean the residue off. My solution to that with my Meyer Optik is using one of the adapters that has the external flange like this:

FotodioX M42 Lens to Pentax K-Mount Camera Mount M42-PK-V1 B&H

Now I will note in this description it says it will maintain infinity focus. Not sure how, so I wouldn't bet on it. Mine is not a Fotodiox brand, so perhaps Fotodiox has it somehow recessed to do so, but not sure how that would work. Regardless, I leave this style adapter on my Meyer Optik so I don't have to worry about cleaning off the Mortite residue. With this setup, I have focus on all but the farthest subjects, at which point I'm using a different lens anyway.

Yeah, I've got the ones with the external flange. If I tell myself I won't need to focus too far out, somehow I'm always wrong that day. The washer works good for the Meyer/Pentacon 135 & 200 (see here: M42 Adapter - Lenses turning - PentaxForums.com), but is a bit clumsy on some other "baseless" lenses like the tiny Jena Tessar 50mm. If there was an adapter that blocked the light with its internal flange without the need for extra external stuff, that would be great.

Not a Number · 06-21-2018, 09:35 AM

The shoulder is narrow on the adapter to allow the aperture simulator lever on those lenses so equipped to be mounted.

A thick rubber hair tie/band/holder would probably cover the openings. Buy them by the dozen and any color you want.

**kernos** · 06-21-2018, 03:59 PM

Actually tried to get a look at the kipon adapter by removing it. Failed. This is not a problem for me since it stays put on an ACB failed K30, but really no one else should use this adapter unless they are in a similar situation. Hate to say this as it has given me really useful service and doesn't require lens surgery or super glue, but its no good for most people if it doesn't come off.

**BigMackCam** · 06-23-2018, 01:10 PM

Originally posted by kernos

Actually tried to get a look at the kipon adapter by removing it. Failed. This is not a problem for me since it stays put on an ACB failed K30, but really no one else should use this adapter unless they are in a similar situation. Hate to say this as it has given me really useful service and doesn't require lens surgery or super glue, but its no good for most people if it doesn't come off.

How are you trying to remove it? The Kipon is a tight fit, and really needs a tool to depress the spring, rotate the adapter and remove it... not just finger pressure like the OEM version. I've fitted my Kipon adapter to my K10D-clone Samsung GX-10, K-5, K-3 and K-3II with no removal problems. Once the spring is depressed by the tool, a firm rotational movement frees it up just fine...

**kernos** · 06-24-2018, 06:38 AM

Originally posted by BigMackCam

How are you trying to remove it? The Kipon is a tight fit, and really needs a tool to depress the spring, rotate the adapter and remove it... not just finger pressure like the OEM version. I've fitted my Kipon adapter to my K10D-clone Samsung GX-10, K-5, K-3 and K-3II with no removal problems. Once the spring is depressed by the tool, a firm rotational movement frees it up just fine...

Well not my experience. The removal tool jams against the flange of the camera mount when it is turned. I seem to have displaced the spring in the process of trying to turn it. I probably could get a very small screwdriver and magnifying glass and realign the spring and the follow the video that I found later to lift the removal tool slightly so it clears the camera mount. Maybe your adapter is a later model but the one I have is too error prone to use for most people who may want to swap between m42 and PK.

**BigMackCam** · 06-24-2018, 07:08 AM

Originally posted by kernos

Well not my experience. The removal tool jams against the flange of the camera mount when it is turned.

Yes, that happens with all of those tools. There's a knack to it... You have to lift the tool out slightly, so that it's engaged with the adapter but doesn't jam against the camera mount. When I was first starting out with adapters on my K-5, I ran into the same problem and actually caused a couple of nicks and scratches on the camera's mount. It just takes a little practice

Originally posted by kernos

I seem to have displaced the spring in the process of trying to turn it. I probably could get a very small screwdriver and magnifying glass and realign the spring and the follow the video that I found later to lift the removal tool slightly so it clears the camera mount. Maybe your adapter is a later model but the one I have is too error prone to use for most people who may want to swap between m42 and PK.

Quite a few people have had spring problems with a number of adapters - even on the original Pentax model, but especially on some of the cheaper copies. Some folks choose to remove the spring altogether. Of course, that means the adapter (and, hence, the lens) isn't locked into place, but if you're careful that needn't be a problem.

I hope you manage to remove yours

vonBaloney · 06-24-2018, 09:19 AM

I take the springs out immediately, except on the real ones from Pentax. They are a nightmare, plus I want the mount adapter to stay on the lens, not the body.

**mgvh** · 06-24-2018, 10:42 AM - **1 Like**

I also simply take off the spring. I haven't had a problem. (Just chiming in to add to this month's post total!)

**clickclick** · 06-25-2018, 09:39 AM - **1 Like**

Yep, I remove the springs and dedicate the adapter to the lens so all my M42 lenses are now bayonet mounts. Just makes it easier as I tend to do a lot of lens swapping. After all, if you're not swapping them out frequently, you're not fully enjoying the LBA experience.

gatorguy · 02-07-2022, 05:11 PM

Resurrecting this old thread.

I received my Zeiss Jena 35 2.8 (zebra) today. Love the close focus ability! But my M42 to K adapter doesn't have the proper flange to cause the aperture pin to depress. It only shoots wide open at the moment. What's my best option, just a different adapter, and if so is the authentic Pentax Adapter K a good choice?

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06-18-2018, 04:37 PM	#16
kernos Site Supporter Join Date: Feb 2013 Posts: 456	I've had no problem with the kipon adapter but was shocked that the price is nearly double what I paid. Far as I can tell every pin is fully depressed and there was never a problem with fit. Also, no light leaks on narrow based lenses.

06-18-2018, 05:01 PM	#17
BigMackCam Digitiser of Film Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: North East of England Posts: 20,670	Originally posted by kernos I've had no problem with the kipon adapter but was shocked that the price is nearly double what I paid. Far as I can tell every pin is fully depressed and there was never a problem with fit. Also, no light leaks on narrow based lenses. If your Kipon adapter mounts flush and has the cut-outs to allow a tool for removal, then it's just as susceptible as other adapters to light leaks. That's the main trouble spot. But unless you have reasonably strong light sources in front of (and, even more so, in front of but at an angle to) the camera, it's usually not a problem...

06-20-2018, 06:09 PM - 1 Like	#18
clickclick Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: May 2016 Location: East Coast Posts: 2,903	Originally posted by vonBaloney Please post back here when you get it and tell us if it is any good. It arrived today, and given it's origin, I think it was pretty good time. It is made of black anodized aluminum, and is a tight fit requiring use of the included key. Like other adapters mentioned, the depth of the flange is such that it may or may not press the pin far enough to fully actuate the aperture. I bought this for an odd Vivitar (55mm f2.1 - think must be a Cosina origin) a friend gave me to check out. It doesn't depress the pin far enough, and I'll have to make a shim. The width of the shoulder the pin hits is narrow, and with this lens, it just barely hits the pin. While not needed since it has an auto/man switch, I put my Takumar 3.5/35 on it to see how it works. The pin is fully depressed, and the engagement is more solid - the Takumar pin must be a hair closer to the outer edge of the lens. Finally, the adapter sits just a paper's thickness below the height of the camera's flange. While this style adapter is not needed since it has no pin, a lens like my Meyer Optik Orestegor 4/200, that tapers to a narrow base, might loose a minuscule amount of close focus range. Probably not even detectable unless doing macro work. I think in the end, I'd say I'm neutral on it. It sounds like the amount of pin depression is typical compared to other adapters of this type. I've never handled another adapter of this type, so I don't have anything to compare the shoulder width - I'm sure keeping it narrow is desirable to avoid vignetting with certain lenses. The black anodized finish is nice to reduce reflections. That may be it's best feature. Hope this helps someone.

06-20-2018, 07:35 PM	#19
vonBaloney Pentaxian Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Albuquerque, NM Posts: 6,029	Originally posted by clickclick It arrived today, and given it's origin, I think it was pretty good time. It is made of black anodized aluminum, and is a tight fit requiring use of the included key. Like other adapters mentioned, the depth of the flange is such that it may or may not press the pin far enough to fully actuate the aperture. I bought this for an odd Vivitar (55mm f2.1 - think must be a Cosina origin) a friend gave me to check out. It doesn't depress the pin far enough, and I'll have to make a shim. The width of the shoulder the pin hits is narrow, and with this lens, it just barely hits the pin. While not needed since it has an auto/man switch, I put my Takumar 3.5/35 on it to see how it works. The pin is fully depressed, and the engagement is more solid - the Takumar pin must be a hair closer to the outer edge of the lens. Finally, the adapter sits just a paper's thickness below the height of the camera's flange. While this style adapter is not needed since it has no pin, a lens like my Meyer Optik Orestegor 4/200, that tapers to a narrow base, might loose a minuscule amount of close focus range. Probably not even detectable unless doing macro work. I think in the end, I'd say I'm neutral on it. It sounds like the amount of pin depression is typical compared to other adapters of this type. I've never handled another adapter of this type, so I don't have anything to compare the shoulder width - I'm sure keeping it narrow is desirable to avoid vignetting with certain lenses. The black anodized finish is nice to reduce reflections. That may be it's best feature. I get light leaks with my Meyer 200/4 (and similar narrow base screw-mount lenses) with a regular non-pin-depressing m42 adapter (especially a generic one where I've removed the spring) -- does it take care of that problem? On the Meyer, I've solved it with a big rubber washer which I've detailed on this forum before, but some smaller lenses that doesn't work as well. A more light-tight but flush adapter would be welcome for those narrow lenses.

06-21-2018, 08:36 AM	#20
clickclick Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: May 2016 Location: East Coast Posts: 2,903	Originally posted by vonBaloney I get light leaks with my Meyer 200/4 (and similar narrow base screw-mount lenses) with a regular non-pin-depressing m42 adapter (especially a generic one where I've removed the spring) -- does it take care of that problem? On the Meyer, I've solved it with a big rubber washer which I've detailed on this forum before, but some smaller lenses that doesn't work as well. A more light-tight but flush adapter would be welcome for those narrow lenses. I have been plugging those holes with Mortite: Mortite Caulking Cord \| Frost King® Weatherization Products The only downside to this is it does leave a residue, so if you use it directly on the camera's flange, you will need to clean the residue off. My solution to that with my Meyer Optik is using one of the adapters that has the external flange like this: FotodioX M42 Lens to Pentax K-Mount Camera Mount M42-PK-V1 B&H Now I will note in this description it says it will maintain infinity focus. Not sure how, so I wouldn't bet on it. Mine is not a Fotodiox brand, so perhaps Fotodiox has it somehow recessed to do so, but not sure how that would work. Regardless, I leave this style adapter on my Meyer Optik so I don't have to worry about cleaning off the Mortite residue. With this setup, I have focus on all but the farthest subjects, at which point I'm using a different lens anyway.

06-21-2018, 09:04 AM	#21
vonBaloney Pentaxian Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Albuquerque, NM Posts: 6,029	Originally posted by clickclick I have been plugging those holes with Mortite: Mortite Caulking Cord \| Frost King® Weatherization Products The only downside to this is it does leave a residue, so if you use it directly on the camera's flange, you will need to clean the residue off. My solution to that with my Meyer Optik is using one of the adapters that has the external flange like this: FotodioX M42 Lens to Pentax K-Mount Camera Mount M42-PK-V1 B&H Now I will note in this description it says it will maintain infinity focus. Not sure how, so I wouldn't bet on it. Mine is not a Fotodiox brand, so perhaps Fotodiox has it somehow recessed to do so, but not sure how that would work. Regardless, I leave this style adapter on my Meyer Optik so I don't have to worry about cleaning off the Mortite residue. With this setup, I have focus on all but the farthest subjects, at which point I'm using a different lens anyway. Yeah, I've got the ones with the external flange. If I tell myself I won't need to focus too far out, somehow I'm always wrong that day. The washer works good for the Meyer/Pentacon 135 & 200 (see here: M42 Adapter - Lenses turning - PentaxForums.com), but is a bit clumsy on some other "baseless" lenses like the tiny Jena Tessar 50mm. If there was an adapter that blocked the light with its internal flange without the need for extra external stuff, that would be great.

06-21-2018, 09:35 AM	#22
Not a Number Moderator Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Venice, CA Posts: 10,526	The shoulder is narrow on the adapter to allow the aperture simulator lever on those lenses so equipped to be mounted. A thick rubber hair tie/band/holder would probably cover the openings. Buy them by the dozen and any color you want.

06-21-2018, 03:59 PM	#23
kernos Site Supporter Join Date: Feb 2013 Posts: 456	Actually tried to get a look at the kipon adapter by removing it. Failed. This is not a problem for me since it stays put on an ACB failed K30, but really no one else should use this adapter unless they are in a similar situation. Hate to say this as it has given me really useful service and doesn't require lens surgery or super glue, but its no good for most people if it doesn't come off.

06-23-2018, 01:10 PM	#24
BigMackCam Digitiser of Film Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: North East of England Posts: 20,670	Originally posted by kernos Actually tried to get a look at the kipon adapter by removing it. Failed. This is not a problem for me since it stays put on an ACB failed K30, but really no one else should use this adapter unless they are in a similar situation. Hate to say this as it has given me really useful service and doesn't require lens surgery or super glue, but its no good for most people if it doesn't come off. How are you trying to remove it? The Kipon is a tight fit, and really needs a tool to depress the spring, rotate the adapter and remove it... not just finger pressure like the OEM version. I've fitted my Kipon adapter to my K10D-clone Samsung GX-10, K-5, K-3 and K-3II with no removal problems. Once the spring is depressed by the tool, a firm rotational movement frees it up just fine...

06-24-2018, 06:38 AM	#25
kernos Site Supporter Join Date: Feb 2013 Posts: 456	Originally posted by BigMackCam How are you trying to remove it? The Kipon is a tight fit, and really needs a tool to depress the spring, rotate the adapter and remove it... not just finger pressure like the OEM version. I've fitted my Kipon adapter to my K10D-clone Samsung GX-10, K-5, K-3 and K-3II with no removal problems. Once the spring is depressed by the tool, a firm rotational movement frees it up just fine... Well not my experience. The removal tool jams against the flange of the camera mount when it is turned. I seem to have displaced the spring in the process of trying to turn it. I probably could get a very small screwdriver and magnifying glass and realign the spring and the follow the video that I found later to lift the removal tool slightly so it clears the camera mount. Maybe your adapter is a later model but the one I have is too error prone to use for most people who may want to swap between m42 and PK.

06-24-2018, 07:08 AM	#26
BigMackCam Digitiser of Film Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: North East of England Posts: 20,670	Originally posted by kernos Well not my experience. The removal tool jams against the flange of the camera mount when it is turned. Yes, that happens with all of those tools. There's a knack to it... You have to lift the tool out slightly, so that it's engaged with the adapter but doesn't jam against the camera mount. When I was first starting out with adapters on my K-5, I ran into the same problem and actually caused a couple of nicks and scratches on the camera's mount. It just takes a little practice Originally posted by kernos I seem to have displaced the spring in the process of trying to turn it. I probably could get a very small screwdriver and magnifying glass and realign the spring and the follow the video that I found later to lift the removal tool slightly so it clears the camera mount. Maybe your adapter is a later model but the one I have is too error prone to use for most people who may want to swap between m42 and PK. Quite a few people have had spring problems with a number of adapters - even on the original Pentax model, but especially on some of the cheaper copies. Some folks choose to remove the spring altogether. Of course, that means the adapter (and, hence, the lens) isn't locked into place, but if you're careful that needn't be a problem. I hope you manage to remove yours

06-24-2018, 09:19 AM	#27
vonBaloney Pentaxian Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Albuquerque, NM Posts: 6,029	I take the springs out immediately, except on the real ones from Pentax. They are a nightmare, plus I want the mount adapter to stay on the lens, not the body.

06-24-2018, 10:42 AM - 1 Like	#28
mgvh Site Supporter Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: MD Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,029	I also simply take off the spring. I haven't had a problem. (Just chiming in to add to this month's post total!)

06-25-2018, 09:39 AM - 1 Like	#29
clickclick Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: May 2016 Location: East Coast Posts: 2,903	Yep, I remove the springs and dedicate the adapter to the lens so all my M42 lenses are now bayonet mounts. Just makes it easier as I tend to do a lot of lens swapping. After all, if you're not swapping them out frequently, you're not fully enjoying the LBA experience.

02-07-2022, 05:11 PM	#30
gatorguy Moderator Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Central Florida Photos: Gallery Posts: 6,092	Resurrecting this old thread. I received my Zeiss Jena 35 2.8 (zebra) today. Love the close focus ability! But my M42 to K adapter doesn't have the proper flange to cause the aperture pin to depress. It only shoots wide open at the moment. What's my best option, just a different adapter, and if so is the authentic Pentax Adapter K a good choice?