Best Low Cost Macro Lens for Pentax K

stevebrot · 07-03-2018, 09:26 PM - **1 Like**

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Originally posted by Wheatfield

What the longer lens gives you is greater working distance and a narrower angle of view.

This is where I post the "way too little" working distance photo again. Sometimes it takes two or more repetitions to sink in that no, this does not work for tabletop product photography.

Best Low Cost Macro Lens for Pentax K - Page 3 - PentaxForums.com

Steve

Wheatfield · 07-04-2018, 03:40 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by stevebrot

This is where I post the "way too little" working distance photo again. Sometimes it takes two or more repetitions to sink in that no, this does not work for tabletop product photography.

Best Low Cost Macro Lens for Pentax K - Page 3 - PentaxForums.com

That’s funny. When shooting small product, I’ve found that a working distance for front of lens to subject of 6-8 inches is about as short as I want, longer is better most of the time.
Quite often the close up filter solution on a short lens kills working distance, and on a zoom lens kills sharpness or adds in all sorts of aberrations.

GoldMountain · 07-04-2018, 10:56 AM

Originally posted by Thagomizer

Here are couple of quick shots taken at either end of the 18-55's range of magnification when reversed on my K-S2, using a mm ruler.

At 55mm (approx. 0.83 X):

At 18mm (approx. 3.9 X):

Here are some shots taken in "real life" with this. Working distance is tight, about 45mm, so certainly not ideal for all applications.

Originally posted by Thagomizer

Here are couple of quick shots taken at either end of the 18-55's range of magnification when reversed on my K-S2, using a mm ruler.

Thanks Thagomizer! That looks great. I think that will be perfect for photo graphing jewelry close up including the tiny copyright stamps. So I'm happy I get a Pentax K reverse mount, which I will use with my 18-55mm kit lense. But just to be on the safe side, I also ordered the Raynox kit. So I'll be able to compare the two.

I have a feeling I will want to start doing some close ups of insects and nature like so many do with macros...I've always had an affinity for close up shots (with limited capabilities) of normal lenses.

---------- Post added 07-04-18 at 11:01 AM ----------

Originally posted by stevebrot

This is where I post the "way too little" working distance photo again. Sometimes it takes two or more repetitions to sink in that no, this does not work for tabletop product photography.

Best Low Cost Macro Lens for Pentax K - Page 3 - PentaxForums.com

Steve

Originally posted by stevebrot

This is where I post the "way too little" working distance photo again. Sometimes it takes two or more repetitions to sink in that no, this does not work for tabletop product photography.

Best Low Cost Macro Lens for Pentax K - Page 3 - PentaxForums.com

Steve

Oh, well... now I'm confused. I would have thought that for product closeup shots, close distance would work well since I don't have to worry about scaring something away like an insect and can get pretty close. Steve - are you saying that because the product will be in the back of the tabletop tent, it will prevent me from getting close enough with the reverse mounted lens solution? If so, then as a solution - can't I either move the product forward (closer to me) or just use the Raynox kit lens? Or do you think I will have to plunk down more money to get a dedicated macro lens as you seem to be recommending?

Thanks again for all your sagacity and advice!

**UncleVanya** · 07-04-2018, 11:05 AM

Originally posted by GoldMountain

Thanks Thagomizer! That looks great. I think that will be perfect for photo graphing jewelry close up including the tiny copyright stamps. So I'm happy I get a Pentax K reverse mount, which I will use with my 18-55mm kit lense. But just to be on the safe side, I also ordered the Raynox kit. So I'll be able to compare the two.

I have a feeling I will want to start doing some close ups of insects and nature like so many do with macros...I've always had an affinity for close up shots (with limited capabilities) of normal lenses.

---------- Post added 07-04-18 at 11:01 AM ----------

Oh, well... now I'm confused. I would have thought that for product closeup shots, close distance would work well since I don't have to worry about scaring something away like an insect and can get pretty close. Steve - are you saying that because the product will be in the back of the tabletop tent, it will prevent me from getting close enough with the reverse mounted lens solution? If so, then as a solution - can't I either move the product forward (closer to me) or just use the Raynox kit lens? Or do you think I will have to plunk down more money to get a dedicated macro lens as you seem to be recommending?

Thanks again for all your sagacity and advice!

I think you will be fine. Time will tell soon.

BrianR · 07-04-2018, 11:13 AM

I will echo the suggestion of a dedicated 1:1 macro lens in the 100mm range. Buy used and you should be able to resell for little loss if you decide you don't like it. Especially given the lighting required for jewelry (or any shiny thing), the extra working distance compared to the other options will be good for your sanity.

Thagomizer · 07-04-2018, 12:25 PM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by GoldMountain

Oh, well... now I'm confused. I would have thought that for product closeup shots, close distance would work well since I don't have to worry about scaring something away like an insect and can get pretty close. Steve - are you saying that because the product will be in the back of the tabletop tent, it will prevent me from getting close enough with the reverse mounted lens solution? If so, then as a solution - can't I either move the product forward (closer to me) or just use the Raynox kit lens? Or do you think I will have to plunk down more money to get a dedicated macro lens as you seem to be recommending?

Thanks again for all your sagacity and advice!

The best thing to do is to start experimenting with what you've got to see what works and what doesn't. It's also going to depend on how you want things to appear in the photos. A record shot for insurance, for example will have different requirements than an advertising shot. Same product, different looks, different approaches. Different focal lengths of macro lens will change perspective and the amount of background behind your subject. Just as focal length changes perspective in "normal" photography, the same holds true with macro. Shooting larger objects like necklaces close-up with a shorter focal length macro lens will introduce a certain degree of distortion, making those sections of the necklace closer to the camera appear proportionately bigger than parts that are farther away. Shooting with a longer focal length lens from a greater distance will have less of this sort of perspective effect. With experience, you'll figure out what works best for each subject you shoot. You want to make sure that your shots are faithful representations of the items in question; the average non-photographer might not have an awareness or appreciation of "creative distortion."

Lighting and staging are going to be very important to what you're doing. Two books you might find useful are Light Science & Magic: An Introduction to Photographic Lighting and Still life and special effects photography : a guide to professional lighting techniques

GoldMountain · 07-04-2018, 02:05 PM

Originally posted by Thagomizer

The best thing to do is to start experimenting with what you've got to see what works and what doesn't. It's also going to depend on how you want things to appear in the photos. A record shot for insurance, for example will have different requirements than an advertising shot. Same product, different looks, different approaches. Different focal lengths of macro lens will change perspective and the amount of background behind your subject. Just as focal length changes perspective in "normal" photography, the same holds true with macro. Shooting larger objects like necklaces close-up with a shorter focal length macro lens will introduce a certain degree of distortion, making those sections of the necklace closer to the camera appear proportionately bigger than parts that are farther away. Shooting with a longer focal length lens from a greater distance will have less of this sort of perspective effect. With experience, you'll figure out what works best for each subject you shoot. You want to make sure that your shots are faithful representations of the items in question; the average non-photographer might not have an awareness or appreciation of "creative distortion."

Lighting and staging are going to be very important to what you're doing. Two books you might find useful are Light Science & Magic: An Introduction to Photographic Lighting and Still life and special effects photography : a guide to professional lighting techniques

Thanks Thagomizer. Much appreciate the feedback and guidance. I will let you know how things go.

I will also buy one of these lighting books - prob the still life one.

**Craigbob** · 07-04-2018, 04:00 PM - **2 Likes**

Add another vote for the 100mm 3.5 Macro. I picked up a Vivitar branded one and Lightroom sees it as a Pentax FA-100mm 3.5 Macro. So the Pentax/Cosina/Vivitar et al.... are the same lens. Mine did not have the matched Diopter but at 2:1 it works fine. Mine cost about $75.00 at a local camera store.

Here are some images from it:

That said I'm looking to upgrade to the newe D FA 100 2.8 WR macro lens as I find myself shooting stuff at the water a lot more. I'll put it on the marketplace when I get the new lens.

swanlefitte · 07-04-2018, 05:08 PM - **1 Like**

With either the reversed lens or the raynox you will exceed the next limiting factors. Lint and fingerprints. They show up bright and distracting on jewelry. Clean with gloves dust free twice. Take first picture and look at it zoomed in. Then clean again. I have thought i had this clean only to find out after my set up was taken down that i missed lint.

Wheatfield · 07-04-2018, 07:26 PM

Originally posted by GoldMountain

Oh, well... now I'm confused. I would have thought that for product closeup shots, close distance would work well since I don't have to worry about scaring something away like an insect and can get pretty close. Steve - are you saying that because the product will be in the back of the tabletop tent, it will prevent me from getting close enough with the reverse mounted lens solution? If so, then as a solution - can't I either move the product forward (closer to me) or just use the Raynox kit lens? Or do you think I will have to plunk down more money to get a dedicated macro lens as you seem to be recommending?

Thanks again for all your sagacity and advice!

At some point, if you are serious about shooting macro, you will want a dedicated macro lens.

This was shot on the K1 with the FA* 200/4 macro, the brooch is about 2x3 inches. My working distance was a nice comfortable 20 or so inches.
This lens is out of reach for most people since it is about as rare as hens teeth, but with a 100mm lens I would still have had a working distance of about a foot. Working distance is important because it allows you to light the subject without having to deal with shadows from the equipment. A comfortable working distance allows you to manipulate the subject while looking through the viewfinder or at the rear screen.
This type of work is a great excuse to have a camera that has a tethering option.

swanlefitte · 07-04-2018, 08:25 PM

I have a $8000 ring worth the ruby. wheatfield, you have everything in focus and detail is great but the jewels are just jewels. Show why I would want them. If jewels don;t sparkle and don;t have deep color why get them? sorry they look bland.

**UncleVanya** · 07-04-2018, 09:29 PM

Tossing a 2x convertor onto the 50mm or 100mm will help with that working distance. The same working distance as before with X times the size or that much more working distance by moving back to the same reproduction ratio as before but from a farther position. This will not work on the reversing lens example, but it does help with the short 50mm macro lenses when you need more magnification or distance.

Wheatfield · 07-05-2018, 04:00 AM - **2 Likes**

Originally posted by swanlefitte

I have a $8000 ring worth the ruby. wheatfield, you have everything in focus and detail is great but the jewels are just jewels. Show why I would want them. If jewels don;t sparkle and don;t have deep color why get them? sorry they look bland.

The purpose of that image was a record shot for the insurance company, not to try to market it. For that type of shot you want just the facts. Were I lighting it to advertise, I would have chosen a very different lighting strategy.

GoldMountain · 07-05-2018, 08:04 AM

Originally posted by WPRESTO

Shown below:
1) the Raynox macro explorer kit components: quick attach device, 1.5X and 2.5X achromatic lenses (1.5 reduces focus distance front of lens to subject to 8 inches, 2.5X to 4 inches, of any lens regardless of focal length when the lens is set to infinity)
2) assembled system (1.5X unit) mounted on my old 200mm f4 SMCA.
3) Image taken with the rig above
4) Image taken with the 2.5X Raynox mounted on a Sigma 17~70mm has severe vignetting
5) BUT, if you crop away the vignetting, IQ is very good;
6) image taken with a 1.5X Raynox mounted on a Sigma 18~250mm zoom, lens @ 250mm and infinity. IQ is not as good as with preceding lenses, but unexpectedly good from such a long-range zoom out at its maximum FL, which is where all such lenses have their poorest performance.

MINIMAL PP done on these images, primarily small adjustments to exposure. All of them could therefore be improved by applying some sharpening.

What do you think the focal distance will be using the Raynox 250 on top of the 18-55mm kit lens? What is the furthest distance one can focus at for good quality shots?

BrianR · 07-05-2018, 08:27 AM

Originally posted by GoldMountain

What do you think the focal distance will be using the Raynox 250 on top of the 18-55mm kit lens? What is the furthest distance one can focus at for good quality shots?

Raynox 250 + the first version of the 18-55mm kit lens:

At 55mm & minimum focus distance: working distance ~ 6cm, magnification ~0.75X

At 55mm & infinity focus: working distance ~ 12cm, magnification ~0.4X

It vignettes terribly at 18mm with the Raynox. I can't speak for quality when paired with the kit lens, I mostly use the Raynox 250 with my macro for more magnification and the results are pretty great.

07-04-2018, 12:25 PM - 1 Like	#66
Thagomizer Pentaxian Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: London Ontario Posts: 2,068	Originally posted by GoldMountain Oh, well... now I'm confused. I would have thought that for product closeup shots, close distance would work well since I don't have to worry about scaring something away like an insect and can get pretty close. Steve - are you saying that because the product will be in the back of the tabletop tent, it will prevent me from getting close enough with the reverse mounted lens solution? If so, then as a solution - can't I either move the product forward (closer to me) or just use the Raynox kit lens? Or do you think I will have to plunk down more money to get a dedicated macro lens as you seem to be recommending? Thanks again for all your sagacity and advice! The best thing to do is to start experimenting with what you've got to see what works and what doesn't. It's also going to depend on how you want things to appear in the photos. A record shot for insurance, for example will have different requirements than an advertising shot. Same product, different looks, different approaches. Different focal lengths of macro lens will change perspective and the amount of background behind your subject. Just as focal length changes perspective in "normal" photography, the same holds true with macro. Shooting larger objects like necklaces close-up with a shorter focal length macro lens will introduce a certain degree of distortion, making those sections of the necklace closer to the camera appear proportionately bigger than parts that are farther away. Shooting with a longer focal length lens from a greater distance will have less of this sort of perspective effect. With experience, you'll figure out what works best for each subject you shoot. You want to make sure that your shots are faithful representations of the items in question; the average non-photographer might not have an awareness or appreciation of "creative distortion." Lighting and staging are going to be very important to what you're doing. Two books you might find useful are Light Science & Magic: An Introduction to Photographic Lighting and Still life and special effects photography : a guide to professional lighting techniques Last edited by Thagomizer; 07-04-2018 at 12:42 PM. Reason: added links to references

07-04-2018, 07:26 PM	#70
Wheatfield Moderator Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: The wheatfields of Canada Posts: 15,981	Originally posted by GoldMountain Oh, well... now I'm confused. I would have thought that for product closeup shots, close distance would work well since I don't have to worry about scaring something away like an insect and can get pretty close. Steve - are you saying that because the product will be in the back of the tabletop tent, it will prevent me from getting close enough with the reverse mounted lens solution? If so, then as a solution - can't I either move the product forward (closer to me) or just use the Raynox kit lens? Or do you think I will have to plunk down more money to get a dedicated macro lens as you seem to be recommending? Thanks again for all your sagacity and advice! At some point, if you are serious about shooting macro, you will want a dedicated macro lens. This was shot on the K1 with the FA* 200/4 macro, the brooch is about 2x3 inches. My working distance was a nice comfortable 20 or so inches. This lens is out of reach for most people since it is about as rare as hens teeth, but with a 100mm lens I would still have had a working distance of about a foot. Working distance is important because it allows you to light the subject without having to deal with shadows from the equipment. A comfortable working distance allows you to manipulate the subject while looking through the viewfinder or at the rear screen. This type of work is a great excuse to have a camera that has a tethering option. Last edited by Wheatfield; 07-04-2018 at 07:34 PM.

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07-03-2018, 09:26 PM - 1 Like	#61
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 42,007	Staff note: This post may contain affiliate links, which means Pentax Forums may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. If you would like to support the forum directly, you may also make a donation here. Originally posted by Wheatfield What the longer lens gives you is greater working distance and a narrower angle of view. This is where I post the "way too little" working distance photo again. Sometimes it takes two or more repetitions to sink in that no, this does not work for tabletop product photography. Best Low Cost Macro Lens for Pentax K - Page 3 - PentaxForums.com Steve

07-04-2018, 03:40 AM - 1 Like	#62
Wheatfield Moderator Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: The wheatfields of Canada Posts: 15,981	Originally posted by stevebrot This is where I post the "way too little" working distance photo again. Sometimes it takes two or more repetitions to sink in that no, this does not work for tabletop product photography. Best Low Cost Macro Lens for Pentax K - Page 3 - PentaxForums.com That’s funny. When shooting small product, I’ve found that a working distance for front of lens to subject of 6-8 inches is about as short as I want, longer is better most of the time. Quite often the close up filter solution on a short lens kills working distance, and on a zoom lens kills sharpness or adds in all sorts of aberrations.

07-04-2018, 10:56 AM	#63
GoldMountain New Member Join Date: Jul 2018 Posts: 18 Original Poster	Originally posted by Thagomizer Here are couple of quick shots taken at either end of the 18-55's range of magnification when reversed on my K-S2, using a mm ruler. At 55mm (approx. 0.83 X): At 18mm (approx. 3.9 X): Here are some shots taken in "real life" with this. Working distance is tight, about 45mm, so certainly not ideal for all applications. Originally posted by Thagomizer Here are couple of quick shots taken at either end of the 18-55's range of magnification when reversed on my K-S2, using a mm ruler. Thanks Thagomizer! That looks great. I think that will be perfect for photo graphing jewelry close up including the tiny copyright stamps. So I'm happy I get a Pentax K reverse mount, which I will use with my 18-55mm kit lense. But just to be on the safe side, I also ordered the Raynox kit. So I'll be able to compare the two. I have a feeling I will want to start doing some close ups of insects and nature like so many do with macros...I've always had an affinity for close up shots (with limited capabilities) of normal lenses. ---------- Post added 07-04-18 at 11:01 AM ---------- Originally posted by stevebrot This is where I post the "way too little" working distance photo again. Sometimes it takes two or more repetitions to sink in that no, this does not work for tabletop product photography. Best Low Cost Macro Lens for Pentax K - Page 3 - PentaxForums.com Steve Originally posted by stevebrot This is where I post the "way too little" working distance photo again. Sometimes it takes two or more repetitions to sink in that no, this does not work for tabletop product photography. Best Low Cost Macro Lens for Pentax K - Page 3 - PentaxForums.com Steve Oh, well... now I'm confused. I would have thought that for product closeup shots, close distance would work well since I don't have to worry about scaring something away like an insect and can get pretty close. Steve - are you saying that because the product will be in the back of the tabletop tent, it will prevent me from getting close enough with the reverse mounted lens solution? If so, then as a solution - can't I either move the product forward (closer to me) or just use the Raynox kit lens? Or do you think I will have to plunk down more money to get a dedicated macro lens as you seem to be recommending? Thanks again for all your sagacity and advice!

07-04-2018, 11:05 AM	#64
UncleVanya Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2014 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 28,401	Originally posted by GoldMountain Thanks Thagomizer! That looks great. I think that will be perfect for photo graphing jewelry close up including the tiny copyright stamps. So I'm happy I get a Pentax K reverse mount, which I will use with my 18-55mm kit lense. But just to be on the safe side, I also ordered the Raynox kit. So I'll be able to compare the two. I have a feeling I will want to start doing some close ups of insects and nature like so many do with macros...I've always had an affinity for close up shots (with limited capabilities) of normal lenses. ---------- Post added 07-04-18 at 11:01 AM ---------- Oh, well... now I'm confused. I would have thought that for product closeup shots, close distance would work well since I don't have to worry about scaring something away like an insect and can get pretty close. Steve - are you saying that because the product will be in the back of the tabletop tent, it will prevent me from getting close enough with the reverse mounted lens solution? If so, then as a solution - can't I either move the product forward (closer to me) or just use the Raynox kit lens? Or do you think I will have to plunk down more money to get a dedicated macro lens as you seem to be recommending? Thanks again for all your sagacity and advice! I think you will be fine. Time will tell soon.

07-04-2018, 11:13 AM	#65
BrianR Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Ontario Photos: Gallery Posts: 3,332	I will echo the suggestion of a dedicated 1:1 macro lens in the 100mm range. Buy used and you should be able to resell for little loss if you decide you don't like it. Especially given the lighting required for jewelry (or any shiny thing), the extra working distance compared to the other options will be good for your sanity.

07-04-2018, 02:05 PM	#67
GoldMountain New Member Join Date: Jul 2018 Posts: 18 Original Poster	Originally posted by Thagomizer The best thing to do is to start experimenting with what you've got to see what works and what doesn't. It's also going to depend on how you want things to appear in the photos. A record shot for insurance, for example will have different requirements than an advertising shot. Same product, different looks, different approaches. Different focal lengths of macro lens will change perspective and the amount of background behind your subject. Just as focal length changes perspective in "normal" photography, the same holds true with macro. Shooting larger objects like necklaces close-up with a shorter focal length macro lens will introduce a certain degree of distortion, making those sections of the necklace closer to the camera appear proportionately bigger than parts that are farther away. Shooting with a longer focal length lens from a greater distance will have less of this sort of perspective effect. With experience, you'll figure out what works best for each subject you shoot. You want to make sure that your shots are faithful representations of the items in question; the average non-photographer might not have an awareness or appreciation of "creative distortion." Lighting and staging are going to be very important to what you're doing. Two books you might find useful are Light Science & Magic: An Introduction to Photographic Lighting and Still life and special effects photography : a guide to professional lighting techniques Thanks Thagomizer. Much appreciate the feedback and guidance. I will let you know how things go. I will also buy one of these lighting books - prob the still life one.

07-04-2018, 04:00 PM - 2 Likes	#68
Craigbob Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: San Antonio, TX Photos: Albums Posts: 521	Add another vote for the 100mm 3.5 Macro. I picked up a Vivitar branded one and Lightroom sees it as a Pentax FA-100mm 3.5 Macro. So the Pentax/Cosina/Vivitar et al.... are the same lens. Mine did not have the matched Diopter but at 2:1 it works fine. Mine cost about $75.00 at a local camera store. Here are some images from it: That said I'm looking to upgrade to the newe D FA 100 2.8 WR macro lens as I find myself shooting stuff at the water a lot more. I'll put it on the marketplace when I get the new lens.

07-04-2018, 05:08 PM - 1 Like	#69
swanlefitte Pentaxian Join Date: May 2015 Location: Minneapolis Photos: Gallery Posts: 4,068	With either the reversed lens or the raynox you will exceed the next limiting factors. Lint and fingerprints. They show up bright and distracting on jewelry. Clean with gloves dust free twice. Take first picture and look at it zoomed in. Then clean again. I have thought i had this clean only to find out after my set up was taken down that i missed lint.

07-04-2018, 08:25 PM	#71
swanlefitte Pentaxian Join Date: May 2015 Location: Minneapolis Photos: Gallery Posts: 4,068	I have a $8000 ring worth the ruby. wheatfield, you have everything in focus and detail is great but the jewels are just jewels. Show why I would want them. If jewels don;t sparkle and don;t have deep color why get them? sorry they look bland.

07-04-2018, 09:29 PM	#72
UncleVanya Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2014 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 28,401	Tossing a 2x convertor onto the 50mm or 100mm will help with that working distance. The same working distance as before with X times the size or that much more working distance by moving back to the same reproduction ratio as before but from a farther position. This will not work on the reversing lens example, but it does help with the short 50mm macro lenses when you need more magnification or distance.

07-05-2018, 04:00 AM - 2 Likes	#73
Wheatfield Moderator Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: The wheatfields of Canada Posts: 15,981	Originally posted by swanlefitte I have a $8000 ring worth the ruby. wheatfield, you have everything in focus and detail is great but the jewels are just jewels. Show why I would want them. If jewels don;t sparkle and don;t have deep color why get them? sorry they look bland. The purpose of that image was a record shot for the insurance company, not to try to market it. For that type of shot you want just the facts. Were I lighting it to advertise, I would have chosen a very different lighting strategy.

07-05-2018, 08:04 AM	#74
GoldMountain New Member Join Date: Jul 2018 Posts: 18 Original Poster	Originally posted by WPRESTO Shown below: 1) the Raynox macro explorer kit components: quick attach device, 1.5X and 2.5X achromatic lenses (1.5 reduces focus distance front of lens to subject to 8 inches, 2.5X to 4 inches, of any lens regardless of focal length when the lens is set to infinity) 2) assembled system (1.5X unit) mounted on my old 200mm f4 SMCA. 3) Image taken with the rig above 4) Image taken with the 2.5X Raynox mounted on a Sigma 17~70mm has severe vignetting 5) BUT, if you crop away the vignetting, IQ is very good; 6) image taken with a 1.5X Raynox mounted on a Sigma 18~250mm zoom, lens @ 250mm and infinity. IQ is not as good as with preceding lenses, but unexpectedly good from such a long-range zoom out at its maximum FL, which is where all such lenses have their poorest performance. MINIMAL PP done on these images, primarily small adjustments to exposure. All of them could therefore be improved by applying some sharpening. What do you think the focal distance will be using the Raynox 250 on top of the 18-55mm kit lens? What is the furthest distance one can focus at for good quality shots?

07-05-2018, 08:27 AM	#75
BrianR Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Ontario Photos: Gallery Posts: 3,332	Originally posted by GoldMountain What do you think the focal distance will be using the Raynox 250 on top of the 18-55mm kit lens? What is the furthest distance one can focus at for good quality shots? Raynox 250 + the first version of the 18-55mm kit lens: At 55mm & minimum focus distance: working distance ~ 6cm, magnification ~0.75X At 55mm & infinity focus: working distance ~ 12cm, magnification ~0.4X It vignettes terribly at 18mm with the Raynox. I can't speak for quality when paired with the kit lens, I mostly use the Raynox 250 with my macro for more magnification and the results are pretty great.