[AI8877]

So I don't think it's as sharp as everyone raved about. Unless, I'm just really not good with the system yet. Keep in mind I'm an amateur. Any feedback would be appreciated. Also, I just came back from my full time job and I'm so exhausted so I do not have time today to go out and be creative. I specifically took those just to as a preliminary test to the lens.

Everyone said it would be a razor sharp lens but the way I see it is not much of a difference between this and the Kit 28-105

Hellllllppppppp

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[Mikesul]

You are shooting at f2.8 try a smaller aperture (higher number) maybe f8 to start. Also it is not clear what you are trying to focus on. I am sure others will have more suggestions.

[BROO]

Wait for a sunny day (faster shutter speed) and focus on subjects that don't move (unlike a tree or leaves). It takes some skill to achieve a sharp image on a FF camera. Test it out using a tripod too. I am sure the lens is probably fine. Do you have a flashgun? Try using a flash as it will eliminate most problems when testing the sharpness of a lens handheld.

[AI8877]

The chair pic is on a tripod and also pixel shifted. The other two was handheld but with fast shutter speed. It's just an expensive lens and I wanna make sure I'm getting a good copy. Any suggestions. N.B: its dark and rainy outside.

[mikesbike]

What does JPEG quality 85 mean? Is that highest quality? If shooting JPEGs, keep in mind the K-1 has very conservative sharpening by default. You can go into the Custom Image menu to bump up sharpening a notch or so, and also be sure to implement Fine Sharpening.

Other than that, your subject matter is not of a type that will pop out at you. And when dealing with subjects that might move, use a higher shutter speed to increase sharpness in the final result.

[Bruce Clark]

OK I will weigh in here.


Ii do have to declare I too am an amateur and I do NOT own a K1 Mk I or Mk II. Neither do I own the lens in question. However I do share the immediate disappointment with image quality with my first DSLR. (Pentax K-7)


Image 1 Canvas.

This looks pretty sharp to me. Given f2.8 and what must be a fairly close distance to subject, I do not see any problems with this one.

Image 2 and Image 3. Foliage

I can not tell exactly where point of focus is. I believe foliage of any type to be a poor subject for lens evaluation. It moves, it has depth and edges that the camera may focus on apparently randomly. it has bright reflections that may affect exposure.

I suggest you pick a static subject in good light. Statues, masonry, buildings, machinery, toys or similar make good targets.
Set lens to f4-f8, focal length in the middle somewhere say 100mm
Shutter speed say 1/500th to minimise any movements. TAV mode is good to use

SR on if hand held.

SR off if on tripod
Target at least 2 metres awayFocus on an area with good detail and good contrast.
Press shutter slowly taking time to allow SR and focus to lock on at 1/2 press.





Check results in computer. If shooting in JPEG, the camera will process the images according to its settings. Check these and adjust to your preferences. This is trial and error and will take some time to understand your preferences. Most digital images requires some sharpening so consider some form of post processing.


Most important practice, practice and practice. Also please keep posting images here. You will gets lots of friendly advice.

Cheers

[AI8877]

What does JPEG quality 85 mean? Is that highest quality? If shooting JPEGs, keep in mind the K-1 has very conservative sharpening by default. You can go into the Custom Image menu to bump up sharpening a notch or so, and also be sure to implement Fine Sharpening.

Other than that, your subject matter is not of a type that will pop out at you. And when dealing with subjects that might move, use a higher shutter speed to increase sharpness in the final result.

I'm unsure about jpeg 85 meaning. This files are Raw that I converted with DU5 to import here

[SSGGeezer]

I'm unsure about jpeg 85 meaning. This files are Raw that I converted with DU5 to import here

The images are greatly reduced in size and quality (JPEG 85) rather than having servers load 6-12 megapixel images at full resolution.
If you post full Jpgs on your normal photo sharing site and link them here, it would help. Also smaller aperture.

[Ronald Oakes]

Your images , although rather vague.....show ok sharpness for f2.8.
Find a better subject and composition and close that lens down a bit. Remember...You said it first....Noob.

[SSGGeezer]

Either I'm a noob or I had a bad copy or I'm just Paranoid. What's your say?

Don't sweat being a noob! Even the old salts here give incorrect information once in a great while. Usually though, they will square you away if you are willing to learn from them. I have gotten lots of good advice here from some very good shooters.

[AI8877]

Thank you everyone I will test it again and post pics as directed above

[DeadJohn]

...Everyone said it would be a razor sharp lens but the way I see it is not much of a difference between this and the Kit 28-105...

The "kit" 28-105 is a very good lens.

Anyway, to test your new 70-200 for sharpness, or any other lens, I recommend:

• Tripod. That will eliminate shake from handholding. Yes, shake reduction in the K-1 should fix that, but you're testing your lens and try to eliminate other variables. (Alternate: rest the camera on a table)
• 2 second timer. That turns off shake reduction while allowing time for vibrations to settle from pressing the shutter button. (Alternate: use a remote)
• Turn on live view. That eliminates any mirror slap from the camera.
• Manual focus, or autofocus within live view. You want to rule out any autofocus issues with PDAF, the type of focus that operates when using the optical viewfinder. PDAF can be fine-adjusted in the camera menus later, if needed.
• Pick a flat non-moving target with detail. A brick wall can work. A paper with fine print attached to a wall. A hung tapestry.
• Compare test photos at f2.8, 4,5.6, and 8. f2.8 with the 70-200 should be sharp but thin depth of field. Sharpness and depth of field should increase as you stop down.

[Kozlok]

There is no lens anywhere in any system that will be stupendously sharp wide open. These look reasonably good. The biggest issue with these photos is no well defined subject and boring light. As others have stated, trees are terrible test targets because it’s not really one subject. I’ve taken hundred of photos of foliage, they mostly look boring and awful.

[AI8877]

The "kit" 28-105 is a very good lens.

Anyway, to test your new 70-200 for sharpness, or any other lens, I recommend:

• Tripod. That will eliminate shake from handholding. Yes, shake reduction in the K-1 should fix that, but you're testing your lens and try to eliminate other variables. (Alternate: rest the camera on a table)
• 2 second timer. That turns off shake reduction while allowing time for vibrations to settle from pressing the shutter button. (Alternate: use a remote)
• Turn on live view. That eliminates any mirror slap from the camera.
• Manual focus, or autofocus within live view. You want to rule out any autofocus issues with PDAF, the type of focus that operates when using the optical viewfinder. PDAF can be fine-adjusted in the camera menus later, if needed.
• Pick a flat non-moving target with detail. A brick wall can work. A paper with fine print attached to a wall. A hung tapestry.
• Compare test photos at f2.8, 4,5.6, and 8. f2.8 with the 70-200 should be sharp but thin depth of field. Sharpness and depth of field should increase as you stop down.

I didn't know about the viewfinder vs liveview. Thank you

---------- Post added 07-03-18 at 09:31 PM ----------

There is no lens anywhere in any system that will be stupendously sharp wide open. These look reasonably good. The biggest issue with these photos is no well defined subject and boring light. As others have stated, trees are terrible test targets because it’s not really one subject. I’ve taken hundred of photos of foliage, they mostly look boring and awful.

That make a lot of sense. Thank you.

[sutherland]

The other thing to keep in mind is your ISO. The K1 is quite competent and produces clear images up to 3200 ISO. I would suggest increasing the ISO and that will enable you to stop down the aperture and use the shutter to set the meter to the appropriate exposure.

ISO is not a hard and fast rule. Just because you can shoot at 100, doesn't necessarily mean that you should. Looking at the EXIF files, I am seeing that you are using aperture in order to maintain a relatively light, fast response at ISO 100. Bumping up to 400 or 800 would allow you to stop down the aperture, reduce the depth of field, create a sharper image with the 'intended' focal emphasis, without sacrificing stabilization as the camera will shoot 'faster' due to the higher shutter speed (due to the increased ceiling provided by the higher ISO).

My suggestion is to use the Live View and play with the parameters. See how all of the 'different' levers influence the image and each other.